At last, Fears releases a core-range rectangle watch, the Arnos Pewter Blue
Nina Scally- Fears launches a new core collection, the Arnos, with an elegant rectangular case.
- Its slim and tall form echoes the brand’s Art Deco-inspired creations of the 1920s and 1930s.
- The Arnos debuts a rubber band, marking a first for the brand, hinting at sportier releases in the future.
Never mind the Tanks and Reversos of the world. As appealing as these rectangular watches are, some of us don’t have the wallet for a five-figure timepiece. There are plenty of brands making more affordable alternatives, though, like the sub-$1k Hamilton American Classic Boulton or the Longines DolceVita for those less-endowed wrists. Anyway, despite being accustomed to telling time on a conventional round surface, I must admit there is something attractive about knowing a manufacturer has had to somewhat extend itself outside of the norm to make the placement of the mechanics inside the trickier dimensions of a rectangular watch really work.
A quick glance through British watchmaker Fears’ online store will reveal that the brand previously offered a rectangular watch in the form of the two-handed Archival 1930 Limited Edition watch and the Archival 1930 Small Seconds. Both designs were revived during Fears’ celebration of its 175th anniversary in 2021. In fact, it’s from these very designs that Fears draws inspirational cues in its latest Art Deco-esque watch – the Fears Arnos Pewter Blue. It’s a watch with distinctive proportions reminiscent of the brand’s 1920s and 1930s offerings and marks the beginnings of a core collection that will now sit alongside the brand’s Brunswick and Redcliff collections.
Fears is set to showcase this third core collection watch at the Time to Watches exhibition in Geneva next week, and it will likely attract those particularly interested in the brand’s history since Fears is known for its Bristol-inspired collection names, which nod to its heritage. Its two other core collections are named after locations where the company was founded (the Redcliff district) and where its export warehouse was based (Brunswick Square).
Interestingly, the brand has hinted at experimenting with more “angular” case shapes when the time comes to eventually extend the Arnos collection instead of reserving the range for rectangular models exclusively. Could a more modern design language see the Arnos go down a more aggressive, sporty avenue with time, I wonder? And speaking of avenues, Fears continues its tradition in namesake collections with this new core line. Arnos Vale, after which the collection is named, is the cemetery in which company founder Edwin Fears is buried and where the brand’s current headquarters reside.
The new Fears Arnos Pewter Blue has a slim, elegant profile measuring dimensions of 33.5mm by x 22.6mm with a thickness of 8.40mm. Its curved front and back are designed to hug the wrist for a more comfortable fit and achieve a softer, less angular appearance. The 40mm lug-to-lug length is also a nice Goldilocks size for the slender 6-7-inch wrist. The elegantly curved case and crystal help archive Fears’ vision of yesteryear proportions reminiscent of the Art Deco period and adopt a tall, slim silhouette.
The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue could almost be a circle-within-a-rectangle design (how about that, Bell & Ross?) It gives the impression that the circular dial is sitting atop the case rather than the dial itself. It’s likely because the negative space surrounding the dial has been achieved using CNC-machining to create a hobnail pattern. The textured surface is then coated in rhodium, giving it an almost metal mesh-like appearance, especially if you’re looking at it side-on. Meanwhile, the galvanic blue dial is sunken and separates itself from the textured pattern around the outside with a machine-turned concentric pattern.
Roman numerals represent the hour markers in a silvery hue and are framed by railroad minutes around the outer edge of what Fears describes as the “inner dial.” Considering the dial proportions are pulled in to create this much smaller-than-normal dial design, the display lacks nothing in the way of clarity or legibility. The distinctive “Pipette” hands – a Fears signature – reach right out to touch the hour markers, and the lack of any additional detailing, save for the brand name and “England” lettering, is refreshing.
Fears has been known to equip its watches with new-old-stock movements in other collections, like the Archival, but the new Arnos Pewter Blue will work on a Sellita movement. The automatic SW1000 was released in 2014 and has seen the most prominent use in TAG Heuer’s Calibre 9 movements and the East-West Automatic by Tiffany & Co. Its compact proportions lend themselves well to the new Fears Arnos Pewter Blue model, providing an adequate 46-hour power reserve. One particularly nice touch is the Fears Blue decorated rotor adorned with the Bristol flower motif – a vivid red-coloured bloom that has been associated with the city and its people since the 1600s.
The Fears Arnos Pewter watch marks another first, in that it’s the only Fears watch so far to feature a rubber strap. The sporty dark blue FKM rubber band matches the tones of the dial and secures to the wrist with a steel butterfly clasp and micro-adjustment mechanism. A second strap option is a taupe-coloured hand-sewn-and-stitched Berenia leather strap with a foldover edge and contrast white stitching, finished with a classic steel pin buckle. Both straps are manufactured by leather specialist Delugs, marking a debut partnership with the Singaporean brand.
Fears Arnos Pewter Blue watch pricing and availability
The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue watch is now open to pre-orders in the Time+Tide Shop, both in-store and online in both our London and Melbourne Discovery Studios. Price: £4,350
| Brand | Fears |
| Model | Arnos Pewter Blue |
| Reference Number | BS422.600 |
| Case Dimensions | 33.5mm (L) x 22.6 (W) x 8.4mm (T) x 40mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Blue galvanised centre, rhodium hobnail outer |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Blue rubber strap / Taupe leather strap |
| Movement | Sellita SW1000, automatic, customised rotor featuring flower of Bristol |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes |
| Availability | Pre-orders open from the Time+Tide Shop |
| Price | £4,350 |