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Our favourite Rolex watches of 2024

Our favourite Rolex watches of 2024

Zach Blass

To use the industry term “novelty” for new Rolex watches each year is a bit of a stretch. This is the brand that breaks the Internet by introducing an exhibition caseback to a watch or changing one-half of a GMT bezel colour. Then again, I do not fault Rolex for not fixing what isn’t broken – upholding a strategy of incremental updating to refine or subtly twist its lauded Oyster Perpetual designs. In 2023, Rolex’s Watches and Wonders debuts were, at least for the brand, very edgy with quirky celebration and puzzle dials, a falcon-inspired dial, a new 1908 model with an exhibition caseback, and a titanium watch in a reasonable diameter. By comparison, this year was much, much tamer. But that does not mean there is not much to like. Here are our five favourite Rolex watches of 2024.

Rolex GMT Master II ref. 126710GRNR

Rolex GMT Master II 126710GRNR 4

Only Rolex could have the entire watch community debating whether or not a GMT hand and dial text should have been rendered in green. A natural evolution to debut, after yellow gold and yellow Rolesor models made their debut, in 2024, Rolex brought its monochromatic “Bruce Wayne” grey and black Cerachrom bezel to an Oystersteel GMT-Master II. Some found the design bland and basic, while others praised Rolex for finally bringing an alternative back into the catalogue to fill the gap of the discontinued all-black-bezel GMT.

I was personally a fan of this configuration as it is (i.e. with the green accents) as I like the idea of an under-the-radar GMT-Master II being available as an option in contrast to the well-known Batman and Pepsi variants. I also think the combination of grey and black for the bezel is better than full black – a nice incremental update that increases legibility for the day/night aspect of the 24-hour scale without ruining the monochromatic sensibility the discontinued full black model offered. Price: US$10,700 (Oyster), US$10,900 (Jubilee)

Rolex Perpetual 1908 ref. 52506

rolex perpetual 1908 dial

Again, only Rolex could stir watch buyers into a frenzy by introducing a platinum option of the 1908, and the icy blue dial that Rolex reserves strictly for its platinum watches. The reason even the most frustrated watch geeks were tuned in to this debut, the icy blue platinum 1908 has the intrigue of incorporating a rice grain motif guilloché. While relatively common in high-end brand catalogues, guilloché dials are very uncommon for Rolex. So, to bring a new element into its newest collection, which also boasts the acclaim of being the only Rolex collection with an exhibition caseback as a part of its standard design, was cool to see.

The Perpetual 1908 replaced and improved upon the discontinued Cellini, planting a flag that Rolex was ready to go head-to-head with the likes of Patek Philippe in the dress watch market. We all have our fingers crossed that Rolex will push the 1908 even further, with more options and heightened complication. Price: US$30,900

Rolex Day-Date ref. 128238

Rolex Day Date 128238 5
Image courtesy of Fratello Watches

Believe it or not, this year, Rolex returned to dials with Roman numerals for the Day-Date 36. Like the Sky-Dweller, this is – at least on the surface – not a major update. However, the minimal, faceted Romans found on the Day-Date 40 have become a bit of a modern signature that was noticeably missing from the 36mm options in the range. In this classic size, the introduction of Romans into the segment allows buyers to purchase a modern Day-Date, with all of its robust benefits, while wearing an aesthetic in line with vintage models, and that’s certainly favourable in today’s market. Price: US$36,500

Rolex Sky-Dweller ref. 336935

rolex sky dweller superlative chronometer

Normally, I would complain that a 42mm watch should be 40mm, but I understand why Rolex keeps the Sky-Dweller a bit bigger. Like an Explorer versus an Explorer II, having a size difference between watches with similar functionality is a benefit. If you want 40mm, you always have the GMT-Master II. The Rolex Sky-Dweller underwent no major overhaul in 2024, using the same dimensions, materials and calibre. That said, the yellow and Everose gold Sky-Dwellers did get a case-matching bracelet for the first time. Previously, they were strictly limited to Rolex’s Oysterflex bracelet. Now, you can go full gold with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelet variants. For the GMT-Master II and Sky-Dweller, I’m team Jubilee. Price: US$54,000

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126528LN “Le Mans”

Rolex daytona yellow gold le mans jpg
Image courtesy of Luxury Bazaar

The only thing more surprising than Rolex debuting a vintage-inspired white gold Daytona to celebrate the centenary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans is that the brand would discontinue it after a year (the shortest production of any Rolex watch ever) and replace it with a yellow gold version. On the debut of both configurations, they each became the most sought-after modern Rolex in the world, trading at five to ten times above its retail price. For watch collectors, having the vintage Paul Newman Singer dial signatures, blended with the modernity of an exhibition caseback, made this framework, regardless of white or yellow gold, an absolute winner.

If it wasn’t for a massive lack of funds in my bank account, a lack of pull with Rolex authorised dealers, and a lack of faith in my arm not getting chopped off the first time I stepped outside wearing this watch, this would 100% be my first choice of any modern Rolex watch. Price: ~US$50,000