Our favourite Patek Philippe watches of 2024
Borna BošnjakRounding out our favourite series of 2024 is Patek Philippe, a brand whose year will certainly be affected by recency bias. And yes, this is another article about Patek where the Cubitus-shaped elephant in the room cannot be avoided, but as it’s a look back at the brand’s year, I think it’s warranted. Despite Patek’s leadership not grabbing as many positive headlines as they might have liked in 2024, Patek Philippe also had some rather enviable pieces launch last year – especially so when it comes to its off-catalogue collections, with a couple of stunning wood marquetry dial Calatravas really standing out in my mind. The rest of its notable novelties all feature a fairly high degree of complication – bar one, which just happened to be the best Patek of 2024 in my eyes.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5378/1R-001
Starting off with the most understated and elegant of bangs possible, we have the new Golden Ellipse with a matching, woven gold bracelet. The Ellipse is a stunning shape in its own right, but this chain-link bracelet takes it to a new level. I was actually surprised to find how large it wears on my 16cm/6.3in wrist (it’s photographed above on Jamie’s 18cm/7.1in wrist). For a 34.5mm x 39.5mm ultra-dressy watch, it’s got heaps of presence. The individual links are all perfectly polished, finishing in an engraved clasp that’s just the cherry on top. What a stunner. Price: US$60,100
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phases ref. 5396G-017
I’m usually not too keen on having diamonds on a watch unless the watch was specifically created for that purpose. Patek Philippe’s approach of using beautiful baguettes for hour indices, however, is a rare exception. It’s an elegant solution that still totally works with the intended design but elevates it without feeling gaudy. The ref. 5396 Annual Calendar got that very same treatment this year, made all the better by that gradient blue dial. Price: US$63,510
Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5330G-001
There are a number of long-standing Patek Philippe model lineages you could call legendary, and the World Time collection has just as much of a claim as any. This year, it was part of the “dailyfication” that ran rampant throughout Patek’s Watches and Wonders 2024 releases, equipping many of its highly complicated, precious metal models with sportier dials, often in blue. It’s still a Patek Philippe World Time, of course, meaning you get the successor of one of the very first world time wristwatches, and in this case, a patented date display that’s tied to the local time displayed at 12 o’clock. Price: US$76,590
Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph ref. 5980/60G-001
And speaking of that blue dial treatment, it also extended to Patek’s sporty models like the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph. This is one of the sportiest models in Patek’s line-up in general, most of all thanks to the denim blue calfskin strap that’s a real breath of fresh air. The case is still white gold though, so don’t worry about losing any reassuring heft – though the opaline blue dial does make this Nautilus seem almost casual, which is unusual for the model’s instantly recognisable shape. Price: US$78,950
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts ref. 5160/500R-001
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I’ve saved the most decadent piece for last, and it just has to be the hand-engraved, Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 5160/500R. As part of Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts range, you can expect wholly classical styling and methods of decoration, which in this case means floral motifs engraved on the dial, case, and hunter display caseback that opens to reveal a beautifully decorated movement. My favourite part is the mirror-polished inside of the caseback that reflects the movement in all of its gilded glory. Price: US$202,090
Thank you to Kennedy, authorised dealer of Patek Philippe in Australia, for putting together this showcase of the brand’s 2024 novelties, allowing us the opportunity to photograph them.