The Time+Tide Team picks their favourite lots from Geneva’s stacked 2025 watch auction season

Time+Tide

Editor’s Note: Normally, we like to dedicate a single article to each major watch auction of the year, but there’s so many auctions gearing up to take place in Geneva right now and they’re all chock-full of amazing watches – so we thought we’d do a mega-round-up and pick our favourite lots from all the different auctions, including Phillips “The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI”, Antiquorum’s “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces”, Christie’s “Rare Watches, Featuring Stories in Time: A Collection of Exceptional Watches” and more. Dig in, this is a long one…

Patek Philippe ref. 3974 (Lot 103, Phillips)

Whenever we’re set the task of picking favourites from auction catalogues, I always do my best to have one from the big box brands and one from the independents. This is often because I can never pick between the two, and I think it’s unfair to try and place one above the other. This time, I was split between two watches in each category, and instead of going for the Rolex ref. 6062 (my dream watch) that is also up at Phillips, I had to go with this gorgeous Patek 3974.

Not only does this watch represent the pinnacle of neo-vintage, serial watchmaking, but this is one of the best examples you find, in part thanks to the highly sought-after JHP (Jean-Pierre Hagmann) stamp found on the case. The late Mr. Hagmann was a master case maker and one of the few people on the planet who knew the secrets of creating truly exceptional repeater cases. And so, when you combine the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar minute repeater with his ultimate level of craftsmanship, you have a watch that is impossible to flick past in the catalogue.

The watch is a culmination of everything Patek stood for in this liminal period of watchmaking we have dubbed neo-vintage, with the best of the classic watchmaking standards still at play, while materials and mechanisms were getting modernised into something we would recognise today. If all that doesn’t get you excited about a watch, I’m afraid nothing will. – Russell Sheldrake

F.P. Journe Ruthenium Set 5/99 (Lots 74-79, Christie’s)

Watch sets are always somewhat special. It means you liked a certain watch or brand so much that you decided to purchase several variations of it, all at the same time. In this case, these five watches from F.P. Journe are part of a series of 99 sets, from the early times when the watchmaker still used brass movements. All five models were produced between 2001 and 2003, and the switch to 18k gold movements happened in 2004.

All watches share a 40mm platinum case, ruthenium-covered movement, and 18k gold ruthenium-covered dial. This gives them a distinct monochromatic appearance, interrupted only by the heated blue hands in his signature shape. Of course, it would only make sense to bid on the set as a whole, but the five watches are being sold as separate lots. If I could get only one, I’d probably move towards the Octa Jour / Nuit. This specific model was only ever available as part of the Ruthenium Collection and never made into regular production, thus adding further magic. – Pietro Pilla

Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing & PalanKing final prototype (Lot 15, Phillips)

One of the most impressive horological superlatives, which has also seen spirited competition in recent years, is the title of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Up until last year, however, it was a battle fought only by established, moneyed brands, namely Bulgari, Piaget and Richard Mille. Konstantin Chaykin changed all that, with the independent Russian watchmaker – who is best known for his ‘Wristmon’ automata watches and had never dabbled in the field of ultra-thin watches previously – blowing the established players out of the water and securing the title with the ThinKing, which measures just 1.65mm thick and weighs only 13g without its strap.

This auction lot represents the final prototype of the ThinKing, which is yet to make it to production/market, making this not only the first example available to the public but also a historically significant timepiece generally. It also comes with its ‘PalanKing’ carrying case. It’s actually the PalanKing that helps the ThinKing achieve its mind-boggling thinness: the ThinKing lacks a crown, so you use the PalanKing (which has an automatic movement and a conventional crown) to both wind the ThinKing’s 32 hours of power reserve and set the time. You can actually wear the ThinKing with the PalanKing, which has a combined thickness of 5.4mm.

It’s an unconventional solution to this utterly unconventional field of watchmaking… But actually, part of what makes the ThinKing so impressive is that it’s otherwise got a very conventional, wearable form. It’s 40mm in diameter, made from titanium and has pretty normal lugs (although its strap is also impressive, featuring metal inserts to dissipate shocks). Aesthetically, it even nods to Chaykin’s Wristmons, with its two subdials and logo arranged into a smiley face. This gives the ThinKing a playful levity that other title-holders have lacked. – Jamie Weiss

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronographe Retrograde ref. 270.2.69 (Lot 291, Antiquorum)

While I do think the modern Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a phenomenal watch, and its modern movement is upgraded, the original ’90s Reverso Chronographe Retrograde (of which this is a superb example) is still the king, in my opinion. Why? Well, with my smaller wrist bias, the 42mm length of the case is much more compact than the beyond-49mm length of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph – much more suited for my (give or take) 6.5-inch wrist.

It is also a historically significant piece, limited to 500 pieces, that alongside a limited edition set of models, debuted this complication within the Reverso collection for the first time. This ushered in a new era for the Reverso, setting the stage for Jaeger-LeCoultre to mechanically elevate its most iconic model with further horological prowess. This watch, and its smaller size, but paired with the modern versions’ more interesting dials, the brand would turn the currently great Reverso Tribute Chronograph into god-tier in my book. – Zach Blass

Breguet ref. 3237 “Tuxedo” (Lot 83, Phillips)

If we start talking about iconic chronographs, the Breguet 3237 has to enter the conversation at some point, especially between the more elegant mentions. This particular model, despite its rather classical appearance at first glance, hides a stone dial in plain sight. The black onyx finds its place on the outer track, adding a layer of sophistication to an already perfect watch. The silver prints on the black polished stone hint at the silver guilloché inner part, bringing together an enviable quadrant configuration.

Looks aside, this is one of only five known examples in this configuration, so rarity has to be taken into account as well. On the dial, the number “3537” is displayed, indicating that this watch is just one serial number before a previously sold example bearing the number “3538”. – Pietro Pilla

Roger Smith Series 1 (Lot 89, Phillips)

I could have gone for any number of other indies for this second pick. There is an incredible Urban Jurgensen with Derek Pratt’s pivoted detent escapement inside, there are a couple Grönefeld pieces which would be an amazing addition to any collection, but as the editorial team’s token Brit, I can’t get past this Roger Smith Series 1. (Although an honourable shout-out has to go to the Frodsham in the same auction.) This Series 1 is, I think, the most perfectly distilled essence of what makes Roger such an amazing watchmaker.

In a 38mm case, this time-only watch displays all of the very best skills that Smith and his team are able to execute. The co-axial escapement keeps this incredibly well yet refined finished movement ticking away, with two styles of guilloche demonstrated on a dial that is perfectly balanced with its oversized sub-seconds dial and classical rose gold hands pointing to the Roman numerals. An interesting fact about this watch is that this Series 1 came after the Series 2, Smith’s take on a power reserve display watch. The reason for this is that the original Series 1 was actually rectangular in shape, yet had the same features as the one we have here. However, after Smith made “The GREAT Britain”, a time-only watch in platinum with a Union Jack engine-turned on the dial, calls started coming in for him to return to the time-only piece, and this time, Roger knew he had to stick to the round case.

Each watch that leaves Smith’s workshop on the Isle of Man is a rare bird, with roughly 12-15 watches in total having been made, and only a fraction of them being these Series 1. This is an incredible combination in my eye: the perfect size at 38mm, everything that can be is in rose gold, and the amazing open case back to show off that highly detailed yet never ostentatious finishing. Would I own this watch? In a heartbeat. Is there any chance of me getting anywhere near that estimate (CHF150,000 – CHF300,000), or what it will actually go for? Never in a million years. But I have met, spent time with, and interviewed many times the man whose name is on the dial, and that is worth more to me. – Russell Sheldrake

Philippe Dufour Simplicity “Unique” – Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation (Lot 129, Phillips)

How do you follow on from a Roger Smith? Well, with another piece from one of the world’s most esteemed living watchmakers, namely the legendary Philippe Dufour. Any time a Simplicity makes its way to auction is exciting, to say the least (and indeed, there’s another Simplicity also going under the hammer with Phillips, Lot 53) but a totally unique one with an unprecedented dial material? That’s truly momentous.

There’s no wavy hand-guilloché here: instead, we have a dial made from butterfly wings, a creation of artist Dominique Arpa-Cirpka, best known for her work with ArtyA, which was founded by her husband Yvan Arpa. The Philippe Dufour logo has also been engraved into the crystal so as not to disrupt the iridescent beauty of the dial. While the dial is the most novel element of this watch, it’s a Dufour after all, so flipping it over will reveal one of the prettiest movements in horology, completely hand-finished and assembled by the maestro himself.

This watch’s exquisite beauty inside and out would already make it notable enough, but it’s also being auctioned off in support of charity. The proceeds of 12 watches in this Phillips Geneva Watch Auction – all donated by up-and-coming independent watchmakers, and this watch from Dufour himself – will support the Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, which provides humanitarian support in Switzerland and abroad, as well as provides a platform for rising stars in horology. – Jamie Weiss

Patek Philippe Ref. 530A-SCI (Lot 773, Antiquorum)

What could you want more than a possibly unique Patek Philippe? To that, add that it’s in stainless steel (a material rarely used by the Maison in the past), and it has a salmon pink dial with applied Breguet numerals. This combination is probably something that many of us would choose if we could configure our ideal model. Now, consider that it was made in 1939 and sold in 1942, a period of political and economic uncertainties, which makes everything more magical.

This watch belongs to the second year of production of the ref. 530, which started in 1938, and while perfectly sized for modern standards, at 36.5mm it was oversized for the time. I really wish I could know the story of the gentleman who chose it at the time. What a style icon! – Pietro Pilla

Haldimann H1 Central Tourbillon (Lot 52, Phillips)

During watch auction season, it’s not uncommon to find numerous lots that would otherwise be undisputed headliners linger in the sort of “oh yeah, that’s nice” echelon, overshadowed by things you just never see come up. This naturally made picking a favourite that much more difficult, with the likelihood of my actually missing something that might top my list among the hundreds of lots. A 1920s Santos here and a 1910s steel Calatrava 96 there, I also tried to put personal bias aside as much as possible – these are the kinds of pieces I’d personally hunt for – but being true to myself, I can’t help but give a few honourable mentions.

The Phillips catalogue seems particularly stacked this year, and aside from the barrage of the usual Daytonas, the headlining THA Breguet No. 1 is worth at least a doff of the cap, as is the Christian Klings Desmodromic and the pair of Urban Jurgensens. But the watch that truly captured my heart is the Haldimann H1 Central Tourbillon. What a stunner! Beat Haldimann’s creations have long been a distant dream of mine, and while the H1 wouldn’t be the absolute, money-no-question grail (that “honour” would go to the H2 Flying Resonance), the Central Tourbillon is just too imposing an object to be overlooked.

The elegance and minimalism of the dial and case are so well-considered, only to be completely trampled on by that huge, lyre-shaped central cage that dominates the overall look. What makes every Haldimann watch even more special is that they’re completely hand-made, with no CNC machining, while the movement is powered by three barrels. Two of those work in unison, balancing each other out and providing power to the tourbillon, while the third is solely for the hands, all managed by an interconnecting clutch. It’s an ingenious, highly complicated watch, and just the third ever to come to auction, according to Phillips. I don’t envision we’ll be seeing another all that soon. – Borna Bošnjak

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP ref. 2356 (Lot 216, Antiquorum)

My pick from this year’s Geneva auctions has to be Lot 216 from Antiquorum, the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP ref. 2356 in yellow gold. It may not be the rarest or most highly sought-after watch in these auctions, but that’s something I love about it. Whenever I see a Tortue Monopoussoir, it just takes my breath away like not many other watches do. I adore how the curves of the case shape differ from your usual, right-angled Cartier, and there’s something so charming about the simplicity of a tiny chronograph movement reduced down to operate with just one pusher. – Tom Austin

Vacheron Constantin ref. 6448 “Unique Piece” (Lot 57, Phillips)

As Borna mentioned, it says a lot about the strength of Phillips’ auction offerings that so many of our picks in this article are drawn from their lots this auction season. This Vacheron Constantin has also been one of the watches they’ve really been championing in all their communications, and it’s not hard to see why: it’s the last known but never seen ref. 6448 in platinum (only 3 ref. 6448s were ever known to be made, the other two being white gold) and it’s never made its way to auction before. Produced in 1961, this was the last minute repeater Vacheron made for 30 years, the brand only revisiting the complication in the 90s, making it an interesting time capsule of a watch.

To me, this watch epitomises everything I love about Vacheron Constantin: it’s got a beautiful interplay between restrained elegance and unabashed luxury. It’s cased in the most luxurious of metals, platinum, but it’s brushed rather than polished. Its dial is almost austere, save for the diamond indices. It’s got slabby, straight lugs, but houses one of the most elegant complications. Like Pietro commented above, I would love to have met the character who ordered such an exquisite, almost contradictory watch, as well as the family who’ve kept it in such great condition until now. – Jamie Weiss

Omega Speedmaster Awarded to Apollo 9 Astronaut Russell Schweickart (Lot #54185, Heritage Auctions)

I am totally cheating with a lot from a USA-based auction house, but Heritage Auctions out of Dallas, Texas has a very cool Omega Speedmaster up for grabs. The gold and burgundy bezelled 145.022 – 69 is already a cool watch on its own, but the provenance of this particular one is the icing on the cake. This watch, No. 25, was presented to Apollo 9 Astronaut Russell Schweickart, as revealed by its caseback engraving. Schweickart’s extensive resume includes being an aeronautical engineer, research scientist, U.S. Air Force fighter pilot and astronaut, and the Lunar Module Pilot on the Apollo 9 mission in 1969 (which is why he was awarded the watch, given to those who walked on the moon and made the lunar landing possible).

“The event in which we were given the watches by Omega was in November of 1969,” Schweickart explains to Heritage Auctions. “It was just after the Apollo 12 mission. We had all been wearing Omega watches, but they were the silver ones. They gave out the watches to those of us who were at the event, honouring our service, and landing on the moon and everything that led up to it.”

Schweickart claims he wore it regularly up until he witnessed a fellow pilot get his wedding ring caught while exiting a plane. After that, Schweickart stopped wearing any jewellery. “I stopped wearing jewellery altogether, watches and everything else,” Schweickart told Heritage Auctions. “So mine ended up in a drawer, frankly, just stored, and I lost track of it for a long time… I would say pretty close to 50 years. I thought I’d lost it, and it was only earlier this year, to be honest with you, when I rediscovered it. No, I hadn’t lost it… That was quite a shock.” As a result, it is worn enough to give it character, but the five decades it spent in a drawer have certainly frozen the watch in time and left it in great condition. – Zach Blass