Our favourite IWC watches of 2024

Buffy Acacia

With over 150 years of heritage, IWC has occupied an unusual place within watchmaking’s 2024. Many of the year’s most popular trends have involved stone dials, smaller cases, and integrated bracelet sports watches – but almost without exception, none of IWC’s most needle-shifting 2024 releases ticked any of those boxes. Instead, IWC went hard on colours and complications, especially in the understated Portugieser collection, which was the brand’s main focus last year. High complications presented in accessible fashions without pretension really set IWC apart in 2024 – here are our favourite watches from the Schaffhausen brand in 2024.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue

Here’s the exception that proves the rule. The redesign of the IWC Ingenieur in 2023 was substantial news, as an integrated bracelet sports watch originally designed by Gérald Genta in the 1970s really deserved to play more of a central role in IWC’s contemporary catalogue. The Ingenieur Automatic 40 better adapted the style cues of the ‘70s model than previous Ingenieur models, although the initial trio of white, black, and green dials left a conspicuous gap. Blue has been the default dial colour for a watch like this for years, and now that hole has finally been filled. The shade of blue really captures the watch’s emphasis on engineering by evoking heat blueing and blueprints – an inspiration that’s explored by the various textures on offer with the crosshatched pattern. It’s truly sports-capable with 100m of water resistance and it’s emphatically comfortable thanks to the 40mm case diameter, 10.8mm thickness, and 45.7mm lug-to-lug length. It’s also relatively affordable for a watch with Genta roots, a ValFleurier base movement and old-school Faraday cage magnetic resistance. Price: US$11,700

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Armour Gold

Although the similar-looking Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night won a lot of hearts last year (more on that watch below), the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 in black and Armour Gold brings that same suave classiness to a slightly more accessible watch. There are no bells or whistles beyond a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, embracing an old-school elegance and tasteful minimalism. Despite its refined nature, the watch never loses its sense of strength, and the balance between black and gold elements is captivating. The calibre 82200 showcases its automatic rotor and various kinds of finishing from the caseback, with a 60-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate. Price: US$17,600

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

We as a publication may be slightly biased to any watch with Tide in its name, but the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is truly exceptional. It’s one of the few Portugieser models that ventures into sports watch territory, even including a 100m water resistance rating should you want to take a plunge while wearing it. Recreational yachting certainly isn’t a hobby enjoyed by the masses, but there are plenty of reasons why knowing the tide can be handy. The Yacht Club Moon & Tide’s displays at 12 and 6 o’clock use contrasting blue and red printing which instantly convey a tone of activity, as does the stainless steel bracelet. It’s certainly chunky at 44.6mm in diameter, but that makes it easier to read the level of detail within the complications. Price: US$22,500

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

Day/night indicators can feel like strange complications at times. If you don’t know whether you’re looking at 1 am or 1 pm, you’ve probably got bigger problems than the time. That said, there are so many intriguing ways to approach its design. The IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night uses a fascinating and elegant solution of a spinning globe that’s half black and half gold to represent each part of the 24-hour cycle. The glistening orb makes for a gorgeous addition to the black sunburst dial that already features an impressive tourbillon, and its sophistication is furthered by IWC’s proprietary blend of 18k rose gold called Armour Gold. The in-house calibre 81925 is just as mesmerising from the exhibition caseback as the dial, and the 42.4mm diameter is kept comfortable with a 10.8mm case thickness. Price: US$79,300

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The term ‘perpetual calendar’ is a bit misleading when you get down to it. Accounting for the appearance of February 29th once every four years does cover you until the year 2100, we’re approaching the point where watch collectors may actually live to see that year. For those people, a perpetual calendar isn’t perpetual. The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar knows when to skip three leap years in a 400-year cycle, making it accurate all the way up to the year 3999. There’s no telling whether or not Earth will even be inhabitable by then, so the use of the word ‘eternal’ feels appropriate enough. In any case, the moonphase display will remain accurate for 45 million years. Can you imagine the accrued servicing costs? The watch itself also happens to be beautiful, boasting a 44.4mm platinum case and a dial made from various layers of glass, bringing out strong dimensionality and character. Price: US$155,000

Honourable mention: IWC Ceralume prototype

If you ever want to get a sneak peek into IWC’s R&D department, there’s no better place to look than the wrist of Lewis Hamilton. Formula 1’s top race winner of all time has traditionally treated to one-off models from IWC – however, 2024’s Monaco Grand Prix was of particular interest to watch enthusiasts. Hamilton was spotted at the race wearing what appeared to be a Pilot’s Watch Chronograph made entirely from luminous materials, including a yet-to-be-released hybrid material of Super-LumiNova and ceramic for the case, along with a lumed dial and strap. This Ceralume concept has been popping up in small-scale applications from brands like Christopher Ward, but a fully lumed watch from the likes of IWC is definitely something to look forward to.