Our favourite independent brand watches of 2024
Borna BošnjakCompetition in the independent brand space has been hotting up, partly because a bigger portion of watch fans are gravitating away from the traditional big box brands in search of something new and exciting. Just to get the honourable mentions out of the way first. For starters, Simon Brette just recently announced a new, black-dialled Chronomètre Artisans that’s just as stunning as its inaugural edition, but as it’s not really a new watch, it doesn’t make the list. As of the actual novelties, we can’t forget Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing prototype, which I really hope will be further refined and made into an actual watch, and hopefully without the asterisks that are currently present. Bovet impressed with the uniquely complicated Récital 28 that calculates daylight saving, and Qin Gan’s Pastorale II is furthering artisanal Chinese watchmaking.
Otsuka Lotec No. 6
Yes, this watch was my pick for the watch of the year. Yes, it won a GPHG award. Yes, it’s using an in-house retrograde module built on top of a Miyota 9000. But alongside all of these things, the Otsuka Lotec No. 6 deserves a spot on the list for its brutalist, steampunk design that works oh-so-well. I solemnly swear that this will be the last time I write about this watch until I actually buy it. Price: ¥440,000 (~US$2,800)
Holthinrichs Signature
Speaking of unique, brutalist designs, the Holthinrichs Signature collection is another surprisingly affordable independent playing in this space. The brand’s ideology stems from the use of innovative production methods, and 3D printing takes centre stage when it comes to the Signature. You can go full-out with the likes of the Signature Lab (the first series has sold out, though), or the more affordable Signature Ornament.
Though the lugs don’t have that same airiness to them, they’re still finished by hands in the signature Holthinrichs manner, and the SW300 has all the same modifications as the limited Lab pieces. Price: €3,500 (~US$3,600, Ornament), ~US$6,300 (Lab)
Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde
With all the fervour enticed by uniquely designed, at times even odd, independent watches, I’m unfortunately not surprised that more traditional takes flew under the radar. Such is the case of the Einser Zentralsekunde by ex-Lange duo Johannes Kallinich and Thibault Claeys. On the wrist, the Einser might pass like a classically Teutonic, well-made watch, but it really comes alive only once you flip it over and gawk at the movement. The finishing is nothing short of incredible, from chamfered gears and wheel spokes frosted plains of German silver as far as the loupe can see. Frankly, it’s criminal that the watch was not nominated for an award at the GPHGs. Price: €24,950 (~US$26,000)
Berneron Mirage 34
You just know it had to be here. The Mirage 38 was actually first released at the end of 2023, so it technically doesn’t qualify for this list, but even if it did, I’m almost certain I’d rather pick one of the stone-dialled Mirage 34s. Whereas the Mirage 38 was kind of a proof of concept, the 34 focuses more closely on unique design and traditional handcrafts. I adore the sub-dial that’s actually carved into the surface of the stone, rather than using two pieces, and I feel like the overall design works better with its distorted shape when the dial is devoid of numerals. Granted, some cool features like the reversed hand stack and free-sprung balance have been omitted for the sake of thickness, but I can certainly live with those. Price: CHF 48,000 (~US$53,000)
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT
An easy way to recognise a Greubel Forsey was being able to see your undistorted reflection in the many polished surfaces of one of their hulking, double-inclined tourbillon pieces. The Nano Foudroyante EWT changes the script with a, dare I say, diminutive, 37.9mm case and only 10.49mm in thickness. Fret not, it’s still very much worthy of the name on the dial, and least of all for its ultra-limited production run and half a million-dollar price tag. The EWT fits a foudroyante seconds to the tourbillon cage, racing around the sub-dial with each release of the 3Hz balance wheel, and rotates with the cage while staying oriented correctly thanks to a differential. Other than combining this ultra-niche complication with a flyback chronograph, Greubel Forsey has managed to put an extremely power-hungry mechanism on a diet, boasting a 24-hour power reserve with the chronograph running. That’s no Powermatic 80 weekend-proofness, but I feel like that’s missing the point just a tad. Price: CHF 465,000 (~US$512,000)