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Our favourite Grand Seiko watches of 2024

Our favourite Grand Seiko watches of 2024

Zach Blass

Grand Seiko, for better or for worse, is known for releasing a tonne of watches each year. Some find it overwhelming, but as a certified Grand Seiko lover, I selfishly think it is awesome to have a sizeable number of novelties to explore throughout the year, and 2024 was no different. Unlike Rolex, there were too many strong debuts that made it challenging to nail down a favourite five. So, while there are many 2024 Grand Seiko launches that I liked apart from those listed below, this selection is a curated quintet of my (and the T+T team’s) favourites.

Grand Seiko SBGH341 Sakura-Kakushi

GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE HERITAGE SBGH341 24194423 3x2

The Grand Seiko SBGH341 was a notable and well-received release this year, because along with the SBGH343 it debuted with, it uses the first modern 62GS case in a 38mm size. This is the Goldilocks diameter for a lot of buyers, and 38mm is far less common in Grand Seiko’s catalogue at present – a welcome mid-size evolution.  The SBGH341 and SBGH343, driven by the 9S85 high-beat automatic, were also the first mechanical 62GS-cased watches to be made in Grand Seiko’s High-Intensity Titanium.

GRAND SEIKO HERITAGE HERITAGE SBGH341 SBGH343 2481912 1x1
The Grand Seiko SBGH341 and SBGH343

The full dimensions of the 100-metre water-resistant watches clock in at 38mm in diameter, 12.9mm thick, and 44.7mm lug-to-lug. The SBGH341 is my pick of the pair, as it offers a fan-favourite cherry blossom pink dial in a mechanical 62GS-cased watch for the first time – also, we have another light green dial later in the list. But if you disagree with our pick, they are both priced the same. Price: US$7,700

Grand Seiko SBGY035 Karasawa

Grand Seiko SBGY035 on wrist favourite Grand Seiko releases 2024

Launched back in August, the Grand Seiko SBGY035 earned its place on this list due to its striking auburn red dial. Grand Seiko dials are best in class, and the brand paired its rock pattern (as seen on the SBGA413 Shunbun) with a red I have never seen another brand use. And in Grand Seiko’s curvaceous Elegance collection, with a manually wound Spring Drive movement that hosts the power reserve indicator on its bridges, the dial is allowed to shine through uninterrupted by complications.

Grand Seiko SBGY035 9R31 Spring Drive Movement

This 20th anniversary of Spring Drive LE did not feel super limited with a quantity of 700 pieces, but if you head to the Grand Seiko US online boutique, you’ll see it’s sold out – at least online. Try your luck in-store though, you might just find one you might find one. Price: US$8,500

Grand Seiko SLGW005 (and SLGW004)

grand seiko heritage slgw005 45gs wrist favourite Grand Seiko releases 2024

During a time in which Grand Seiko seems to be looking forward, doubling down on its next-gen Evolution 9 range, it was really cool to see Grand Seiko debut a vintage-inspired limited edition this year. A revival of the 1968 4520-8000 45GS, the SLGW005 was one of two configurations presented that brought back the 45GS case geometry for the first time in the modern era.

grand seiko heritage slgw005 45gs movement caseback favourite Grand Seiko releases 2024

While the SLGW004 debuted in 18k yellow gold, the SLGW005 finds itself in a steel case that has a vintage-adjacent 38.8mm diameter measurement  – approximately 2.3mm larger than the 4520-8000 45GS it took inspiration from. It is also around 1.6mm thicker at 10.4mm, but the welcome tradeoff is the usage of Grand Seiko’s latest-gen 9SA4 high-beat movement. The 9SA4 is a hand-wound variant of the automatic 9SA5, also boasting the brand’s Dual-Impulse Escapement, but distinguished with its Japanese wagtail-inspired click spring that elevates the sensation you feel when hand-winding the watch.

grand seiko heritage slgw005 45gs strap pin buckle

Between the double-signed dial, stylised to be faithful to the ’60s model, and even the Seiko signed pin buckle, this hit all the right vintage notes to have Grand Seiko fans salivating, and will hopefully open the door to more vintage revivals. Sadly, it is my understanding that Grand Seiko does not have any intention of releasing more 45GS references at this time. Fortunately, while limited to 1,200 pieces, it appears it is still available on Grand Seiko’s website for the time being. And if you don’t feel that vintage connection, you can always explore the Evolution 9 SLGW002/SLGW003 duo. Price: US$9,700 (SLGW005), US$30,000 (SLGW004)

Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genbi Valley

Grand Seiko SLGH021 8

Whenever Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new dial texture, fans take notice. It was clear from the outset, both within the Grand Seiko fanboy niche and the broader collecting community, that the brand had a surefire winner with the SLGH021 Genbi Valley, once again getting a nature-inspired dial.

Grand Seiko SLGH021 dial

The idea behind the dial is that it was designed to depict the Iwai River and the rocks that frame it. In layperson’s terms, you have a luscious light green that presents a distinct shade of a certified dial colour of the year piercing through a sea of green novelties.

Grand Seiko SLGH021 4

The automatic 9SA5 high-beat movement is housed within a 100-metre water-resistant Ever-Brilliant steel Evolution 9 case, measuring 40mm in diameter, 11.7mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug, and is affixed to a matching bracelet. The 1,000-piece limited edition hit the market back in June and has long since sold out, at least on Grand Seiko USA’s online platform. Price: US$10,400

Grand Seiko SLGA025 Atera Blue

Grand Seiko SLGA025 Atera Blue 2 favourite Grand Seiko releases 2024

Perhaps a Spring Drive foil to the high-beat Genbi Valley, the SLGA025 Atera Blue struck a parallel chord with its twist on the ever-popular blue and green dials. Its emerald-like appearance blends notes of blue and green to present an uncommon final colour – one I have only seen only from brands like H. Moser & Cie. with the Blue Lagoon watch, and maybe Audemars Piguet.

Grand Seiko SLGA025 Atera Blue 3 favourite Grand Seiko releases 2024

While the 9SA5 is an 80-hour high-beat automatic, the 9RA2 Spring Drive offers 120 hours of power reserve – indicated on the movement rather than the dial. Its Shinshu frost decoration, inspired by the snow-covered landscape around Studio Shinshu in winter, appears a bit sterile. Up close, however, it is rich, yet fine in texture and offers nice contrast against the diamond-cut bevels of the rotor and outer perimeter of the central bridge. Watchmakers have to be very careful not to scratch the delicate surface during assembly.

Grand Seiko SLGA025 Atera Blue 7

Not only the opposite in a movement technology sense, the SLGA025 also flips the script, externally speaking, with a case and bracelet in the brand’s High-Intensity Titanium. But both the SLGH021 and SLGA025 were big hits on Watchstagram, each offering unique dials while also being distinguished offerings from a material and movement standpoint. It’s also worth noting that, unlike the SLGH021, the SLGA025 is not a limited edition. Price: US$10,500

Honourable mention: Grand Seiko SLGT005 Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon

Grand Seiko Kodo Daybreak SLGT005 FRONT BACK 2 favourite Grand Seiko releases 2024

It’s a Kodo… I mean c’mon. It is just so aspirational and exclusive that we sought to highlight other pieces. Price: US$365,000