Heavy, black and secretive, the new F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is surprising in all the right ways (live pics)
Russell Sheldrake- The new Chronomètre Furtif is the latest addition to F.P. Journe’s standard production catalogue.
- It features a case and bracelet made entirely from super heavy tungsten carbide, with additional elements in tantalum.
- The movement has been redesigned to put the seconds hand in the centre whilst maintaining a sense of symmetry.
There usually is one watch that sticks with me every year after Watches and Wonders. Last year, it was the Cut from Hermes, but this year, it came from outside of the Palexpo with the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif. This monochromatic monster of a watch had me interested from the outset. It uses tungsten carbide for the majority of its case and bracelet, while building off the unique tantalum piece made for the Only Watch auction last year, creating a singular proposition that caught me off guard when I handled it for the first time.
Tungsten carbide is a dense and tough material that is more at home in industrial settings than on the workbenches of the talented watchmakers at Journe, though it has been used in watches before. To see it being used here, and with such a high level of finish, proves just how rewarding it has been for Journe to have his own casemaker, especially as a fully integrated watchmaker from whom we expect such high-end finishing.
The bracelet itself follows the rules set out in the LineSport collection, with a tapering, three-link style that integrates nicely into the round case. There are a couple of tantalum parts in the construction as well, namely the case side bumper, the clasp, the crown, and the caseback ring. Tantalum, of course, is another material that’s notoriously difficult to work with, which here provides a tiny bit of shine and contrast that helps the Chronomètre Furtif stand out.
The next element on this watch that requires our focus is the dial. The entire concept behind the Furtif is that reading the time is a secret that belongs only to the wearer. This means visibility is purposefully low, with the dial being constructed of grand feu enamel over a white gold disc that is then mirror-polished. The numerals are laser-engraved onto this highly reflective surface, which leaves them visible only at certain angles and under certain light conditions. Otherwise, they truly disappear into the depths of the dial. While the numerals and text on the dial are hard to read, the hands are given a high white contrast and therefore stand out as the only thing you can see with any consistency.
The movement inside the Chronomètre Furtif has been given just as much (if not more) thought than the rest of it. Something that can be easily overlooked in modern watchmaking is just how tricky it is to make a movement look a certain way while maintaining all of the features you want. Here, Journe knew that this watch needed to have a central seconds hand, but he still wanted to keep the movement looking symmetrical – a real trademark of the most talented watchmakers and movement designers.
Journe has gone to the extremes to make sure this seemingly simple movement (designated the Calibre 1522) with just time-telling functions on the front and a power reserve and moonphase on the back, looks as elegant as it possibly can. Breaking with tradition, the Chronomètre Furtif has its balance mounted on a bridge rather than a cock, which not only offers better symmetry, but also better shock-resistance which makes sense given this is a pseudo-sports watch.
As all Journe movements have been for the majority of the company’s existence, the Chronomètre Furtif’s Calibre 1522 is constructed entirely from rose gold. This gives the watch two highly juxtaposed sides, with a dial that is almost impossible to discern and a movement with finishing that begs you to stare at it for hours on end.
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Overall, the Chronomètre Furtif is full of surprises and is something that needs to be held to be believed. The weight and density will catch you by surprise, and given the brand’s ambition to make between 50 and 100 of these a year, there’s a chance you may see one… If you’re lucky.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif pricing and availability
The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is now available from the brand’s boutiques. Price: CHF 85,000
| Brand | F.P. Journe |
| Model | Chronomètre Furtif |
| Reference | Ref. CF |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 9.5mm (T) |
| Case material | Tungsten carbide and tantalum |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Mirror-polished, black grand feu enamel |
| Bracelet | Three-link tungsten carbide, tantalum clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 1522, in-house, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 56 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, moonphase and power reserve on the movement side |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 85,000 |