EDITOR’S PICK: 44 of the best watches from 2016 you can buy from $500 to $5000
Felix ScholzEditor’s Note: Way back at the start of this year, Justin put together a series of ‘best of’ lists covering off some of 2016’s finest timepieces – watches that offered maximum return for minimal investment. Now, as we hurtle head-first into that golden period in Australia known as EOFY (end of financial year), we start thinking about tax returns, bonuses and bargains. Sure, you could use this (hopeful) windfall to do the prudent thing and pay the bills – or you could buy a watch. So we thought now was the perfect time to revisit these lists in the form of one mega-smorgasbord list of 44 watches to whet your appetite.
8 watches under $1000
Seiko Turtle Reissue SRPA21K
OK, so this guy’s a total no-brainer – a reissue of Seiko’s classic (and now quite collectable) 6309 series day-date divers. The originals were in production from roughly 1976 to ’88, and this past year saw countless fans shouting “Shut up and take my money” as the numerous variants of the Turtle reissue sold out, time and time again. The line includes something for everyone, including a gilt-dial variant, all black, all blue, a very cool grey made-for-the-Thailand-market Zimbe Turtle, and of course this one, the limited-release SRPA21K PADI-partnership blue-dialled model with pepsi bezel. RRP $699 AUD
Zelos Hammerhead
For the second cab off the rank we’re staying in the dive family, but going obscure with the Zelos Hammerhead. Here, Elshan Tang of Zelos (and Ventus) watches brings another rare material down to the entry level. Previously we saw him playing with carbon on the ultra-affordable Ventus Black Kite, and now we’re treated to the first meteorite dial at this price point — a material we previously loved in Omega’s funky Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon Meteorite, as well as the JLC Master Calendar Meteorite. The Hammerhead delivers a chunky ’70s diver-inspired case, 1000m water resistance, ceramic bezel, monster lume and a tried-and-true Seiko NH35 automatic movement to boot. RRP $629 USD
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 42
At the more classic end of the spectrum, Hamilton’s Khaki Field watches have been part of their line-up for decades, paying great tribute to the military issues the brand produced back in the day. This year saw a handful of colour ways added, including this brown dial with faux-aged lume, which wins its brownie points for playing up the vintage game just the right amount. Of course you can still opt for a classic black dial, or an on-trend PVD black quartz model for far less coin. RRP $745 USD
Swatch Sistem51 Irony Arrows
The launch of the original Sistem51 threw the watch world into shock. An automatic movement completely assembled by robots? How was that going to work? Well, the original series stood the test of time, and new for 2016 the whole line received a healthy little upgrade. The Sistem51 Irony collection drops these movements into steel cases, and most importantly the line includes this VERY cool take on a B-dial pilot. Who’d have guessed a brand like Swatch would go so far to appease the watch geek community? RRP $270 AUD
Bulova Moon Watch Reissue
One of two interesting launches from Bulova this year is their somewhat controversial Moon Watch re-issue. Yes, Omega owns the “first on the moon” claim to fame, but Bulova’s Speedmaster-esque Moon Watch also hit the surface when Captain David Scott’s officially issued Omega suffered a failure. After the original timepiece fetched north of a million dollars at auction, we weren’t one bit surprised to see Bulova step up and create a tasteful re-release. Much like the Speedmaster, Bulova’s new moon watch wears a little on the hefty side, but it’s a mighty fine looking piece at a reasonable sticker price. RRP $550 USD
Raven Trekker TR40
A good compact diver in the sub-$1K range isn’t that hard to find, but tracking one down that’s well-finished and doesn’t leave you trying to ignore its weak points can be a bit tougher. Raven has been in the game for quite some time (it’s the sister company to Stevral, previously known as Benarus until a relatively recent name change), and the Trekker is their latest in the category, boasting a sandblasted case, a domed sapphire crystal and bright BGW9 Super-Luminova. Powered by the bulletproof Miyota 9015 automatic movement, this compact 40mm diver is good for 300m of depth, and has enough of its own personality that it’s by no means your average homage watch. RRP $715 USD
Stowa Antea Back to Bauhaus
We couldn’t clear this list and not include something a little more minimal and dressy along the way. Stowa’s dress watches are often a hit, but there’s something particularly appealing about the Antea Back to Bauhaus models. Available in 35.5, 36.5 and 39mm cases, and powered either by a top-grade ETA 2824-2 automatic or a Peseux 7001 hand-wound movement, these could easily be a stepping-stone for a future Nomos collector. White and black are the classic choice, but if you’re feeling brave, give the pastel shades of green, blue, brown or pink a try. RRP 798 Euro (ex. tax)
Laco B-Dial Flieger ‘Leipzig’
Last but certainly not least, we had to get some classic pilot action into our list. Laco builds a healthy range of logo-less pilot watches, and this B-Dial would be our pick of the litter. Now it’s not strictly a 2016 release, but between its blued hands, satin/blasted case finish, and bright C3 luminova, how could we say no? RRP 850 Euro (inc. tax)
9 watches from $1000 to $2000
Tissot PRS 516 Automatic Small Second
The entire PRS 516 line is quite appealing, however this unique and very motorsport-inspired model is the best choice in this price bracket. A trio of partially exposed subdials displays the running seconds of the watch, which, while a little convoluted at first glance, is a really clever way to add personality to its dial without opting for a chronograph. The subdials have a very gauge-like feel to them, and the horizontal striping of the dial adds to the automotive effect. RRP $1475 AUD
G-Shock GWG-1000 Mudmaster
How could we not throw some G-Shock love into the equation? The new GWG-1000 Mudmaster takes the brand’s ‘built like a tank’ approach and ratchets it up a little more for good measure. Multi-band atomic timekeeping, an altimeter, barometer, compass, thermometer, world timer and data logging capability make this one of the most technically capable pieces of wrist gear you can buy — not to mention it’s shockproof, vibration proof, mud resistant and water resistant to 200m. So long as you can handle its hefty wrist presence, the Mudmaster is a solid option for anyone who needs a watch that can take a SERIOUS beating. RRP $1099 AUD
Seiko Presage Power Reserve
We’re willing to go out on a limb here and say that the Seiko Presage chronograph launched at Baselworld last year is the best value chrono we’ve seen in years, so needless to say the Power Reserve and regular 3-hand date models are right in line with that high-value-per-dollar mantra. Much like the white enamel-dialled chronograph, this model uses a typeface and red 12 o’clock indicator similar to the original Seiko Laurel from 1913 that these pieces pay tribute to. Now that the Presage line is finally available outside of Japan, it certainly deserves a spot in this list. RRP $1500 AUD
Farer Beagle Automatic
Farer is very much a new player in the watch market, but having seen their new line of automatic watches at Wind Up NYC recently, we’re happy to report that they’re absolutely worth considering. Vintage-inspired design, funky color choices, well-sized 39.5mm cases and domed sapphire crystals are just the tip of the iceberg here. The brand’s founder, Paul Sweetenham, has a very keen eye for detail, and we can’t help but love his smart choice of colours for indices and contrasting minute track details, as well as the peculiar (and sort of brilliant) addition of a bronze crown. Oh, and these ETA 2824-powered automatics are insanely comfortable on the wrist. RRP $1075 USD
Sinn 556 Anniversary Edition
In the $1-2K range we really can’t ignore German brand Sinn, which makes a whole slew of killer tool watches that are worth your consideration. For 2016, to celebrate 55 years in business, the classic 556 model was launched in special ‘anniversary edition’ colours, which included a bold brown ‘mocha’ as well as the more subdued anthracite dial seen here . The 556 has been a mainstay of the brand’s collection for years, and though it remains the perfect go-to for something under-the-radar that’s incredibly well built for the price. RRP $1600 AUD
Tissot Heritage 36
The second Tissot to make the list is this clever nod back to the early days of wristwatches, where (so the lore goes) soldiers started adding lugs to pocket watches as means of a retrofit. At 45mm in diameter, and powered by an ETA 6498-1 manual-wind movement (visible through the hunter-style caseback, of course), this piece is executed in a way that speaks to that era quite beautifully. Arguably, if you wanted to go way overboard for a similar aesthetic there’s always the Zenith Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903, a beast at 48mm , but that’ll set you back quite a bit more coin. RRP $1350 AUD
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto Chronograph
The Hamilton Khaki Field line goes all the way back to the days of the brand supplying watches to the US Military. Not to miss out on a good trend, this year Hamilton decided to opt for a faux-patina look for its indices to give the line a more vintage feel, and unlike some examples from other brands we’ve seen, it’s been executed quite well. No one’s going to mistake your new Hammy for something genuinely old, but it’s still a rather handsome piece. Powered by the Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, you’ll have no worries about reliability or steep servicing costs on this one. RRP $1650 USD
Tissot PRS 516 Auto
OK, this is the third and final Tissot to make the list. Car geeks in the room, or fans of the ’60s and ’70s motorsports-inspired watches out there, this one’s for you. In a sea of new releases at Basel, the PRS 516 came out swinging with sleek dials, supple rally-style straps and of course that sweet Powermatic movement that boasts an 80-hour power reserve — all for close to a grand. At 42mm with fairly short lugs, these wear a little bigger than the vintage pieces they draw inspiration from, but are still comfortable on the wrist. RRP $1125 AUD
Klokers Klok K-02
Here we have the strangest timepiece on our list (by far). The K-02 is a quartz/mechatronic-powered retrograde, jumping hour, world timer unlike anything we’ve seen to date. Its complex Soprod movement allows the wearer to hop between 24 world cities, and a longer press of its same control button will switch its hour display temporarily to display the date, which is driven by a perpetual calendar module in the movement. It also has the ability to be quickly removed from its strap to become a desk clock or pocket watch. With all of this going on at such a great price point, it’s easy to understand why the project reached north of 600,000 Euros when it was funded via Kickstarter back in the tail end of 2015. RRP 895 EURO
11 watches from $2000 to $3000
Oak and Oscar Sandford
On the heels of the much-loved Burnham three-hand model, the Oak and Oscar Sandford continued to impress fans by offering a well-executed and stylish Soprod automatic-powered GMT in a compact and comfortable 40mm case. Though quite task-driven in terms of design, this piece is all about the details. A colour-matched date wheel, bright BWG9 Superluminova, a crisp sandwich dial, and American handmade Horween leather straps are just a few key points that help it stand out. The production run of the steel Sandford is limited to 300, though the black PVD model (100 made) sold out in a hurry. RRP $1850 USD
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Green Dial
The 42mm version of the Oris Divers Sixty-Five has been going down as one of the hottest vintage-inspired divers of the year, and with each addition to the collection we find a variant we love even more than the last. If you like the colour green, this is one of the best out there at the moment. The warm, rich tone works perfectly with the beige faux-patina lume, and like all of the collection, it comes with a great matching NATO strap. RRP from $2800 AUD
Ball Engineer II Genesis
While many of Ball’s recent releases have included Chronometer certification and a much heftier price tag, the Engineer II Genesis hit the market in 2016 with an entirely different goal in mind — to bring a more entry-level offering to the market that still boasted the brand’s well-executed finishing and heavy-handed use of tritium lume. The new piece is available in both 40 and 43mm case sizes (at the same price), and is available with either a black or blue dial on your choice of calf leather or steel bracelet. And yes, the tritium still rocks. RRP $2595 AUD
Longines Heritage 1969
Longines has had a really good run with reissues in recent years, including the Heritage 1918 we covered back at Basel, but this new model is one of the best. The design speaks loud and clear to the glory days of ’60s dress watches, right down to the case dimensions of the day. The 36mm cushion case is 9mm thick and houses the Longines L888.2 (a rebranded ETA) with a respectable 64-hour power reserve. In an era where corners are frequently cut, Longines paid extra attention to all the key details enthusiasts care about, and it definitely paid off. RRP $2625 AUD
Alpina Alpiner 4 GMT Business Timer
Alpina’s latest variant of the Alpiner GMT is a little quirky — listing the words ‘Ice Legacy’, ‘Believe’, ‘Preserve’ and ‘Transmit’ on the dial in support of an expedition team focused on exploring 20 of the largest glaciers on earth — but it’s still worthy of your consideration. The chunky 44mm tool watch adds a pepsi inner 24h track, giving it a hint of vintage charm, and it maintains the 360-degree bezel from other GMT 4 and Chronograph 4 models. As sister-company to Frederique Constant, you do get a taste of in-house movement goodness here, though not the whole shabang. Alpina uses a base Sellita SW-200 for timekeeping and then adds an in-house GMT module that allows for independent jumping-hour setting of the home time – extremely convenient for frequent travellers. RRP $3000 AUD
Meistersinger Phanero
Known for their sleek one-handed watches, Meistersinger’s lineup has quite a few cool pieces in it, though for the longest time it didn’t include anything sub-40mm. With the launch of the Phanero, you can now get a properly compact 35mm single-handed dress watch that’s just 7.5mm thick. With dress watches trending smaller and smaller, this new Meistersinger is a solid pick if you’re wanting something that’s a little out of the ordinary. RRP $2100 AUD
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 68 Bronze
Modelled after Zodiac’s early dive watches, the Super Sea Wolf 68 was already a hit in stainless steel, but adding bronze to the equation for 2016 really pushed it over the top. The chunky 1000m diver uses a spring-loaded locking bezel to ensure it can’t be knocked out of position when in use under water (or while desk diving at work). The new piece is limited to only 82 pieces worldwide, and having witnessed how good Oris’s Carl Brashear looks after a few months in the Aussie sun, we’re genuinely eager to see how these bad boys will age over the next few years. RRP $2100 USD
Tutima M2 Seven Seas Diver
On the list of tool divers out there, the M2 Seven Seas was easily my favourite of 2016. Their smaller DI300 divers were much-loved for no-nonsense design and sturdy construction prior to their discontinuation, and I was thrilled to see the case size drop back down from the current 46mm size seen in the rest of the M2 lineup. And though 44mm might seem big on paper, these divers wear a smaller due to their lugless design. The matt blue dial on titanium bracelet is the smartest option in my opinion. As an added bonus, the AR on its 3mm thick sapphire crystal is noticeably improved too. RRP from $1900 USD
Doxa Sub 50th Anniversary Limited Edition
On the topic of tool divers, Doxa is a hard brand to ignore, given that the bright orange beasts have been involved in more diving expeditions than just about any dive watch on the planet. They were the go-to diver for the Cousteau family from the early days of Jacques exploring the world’s oceans aboard Calypso, right through to Fabien’s recent experiments living 31 days underwater. Creeping up on their 50th anniversary in 2017, the brand has released a very true-to-the-original version of its classic orange sub. The new model will be just as slim as the original, powered by a COSC-certified ETA 2824-2, and most notably it will be produced in a limited 300-piece run, all for less than $3k. RRP $2490 USD
Dietrich OT-1 Luminous Carbon Bezel
Remember mid-last year when we showed you the supremely awesome Franck Muller Vanguard Carbon Krypton that added luminous material into its forged carbon case? Well, it seems they’re not the only ones playing with this clever use of lume. Sure, it serves no functional purpose, but if you’re looking for a real statement piece we’d still encourage you to have a look. Dietrich watches are all about the clever, well-executed design details, relying on bulletproof Miyota movements in order to spend more on their outlandish dials and cases. RRP $1950 USD
Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Ultra Slim Steel
If simple and understated is more your speed, we haven’t forgotten about you. Montblanc’s slender dress watch ticks ALL the boxes. The compact gem is only 5.8mm thick and 38mm in diameter thanks to its wafer-thin hand-wound movement, and its silver dial and rhodium-plated hands and indices will look great with just about any office attire you choose to throw its way. RRP $3030 AUD
7 watches from $3000 to $4000
Tudor Black Bay 36
Not only does the Black Bay 36 top our list of $3-4k watches, it has also hands-down grabbed a spot on the list of the best watches of 2016. A compact 36mm case, glossy black dial and snowflake hands are just the tip of the iceberg — its bracelet, fabric, and leather straps mean you can take it from casual to office attire, and being a Black Bay (with 150m of water resistance and a screw-down crown), it makes a mighty fine travel watch. Most versatile new release of the year? Pretty close, so long as you don’t have hulk wrists. RRP from $3400 AUD
Monta Oceanking
You may not know the name unless you’re a hardcore Rolex guy, because these fellas are the team from Everest Bands, who produce some of the best aftermarket straps for Rolex you can find. Anywhere. That longstanding passion for the mighty crown of the watch industry led them down a path of creation where no detail could be overlooked, and the end result is one fine looking dive watch. Being a black-dialled steel diver it won’t necessarily be to everyone’s tastes aesthetically, but for anyone after a sleek and well-executed diver powered by a respectable calibre (Eterna 3909A with a 65-hour power reserve) with finishing that rivals the likes of the Tudor Black Bay, we say it’s worth a look. RRP $3550 USD
Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver
In an interesting change of tune for Raymond Weil, the brand threw their hat into the world of dive watches for 2016 and their first effort is a pretty solid one. Rather than trying to reinvent the wheel, the brand looked to the archives of classic watches and penned a simple, understated 300m diver that offers great value for money. The 42.5mm diver has a supple, perforated rubber strap with micro-adjusting clasps, making it extremely comfortable to wear especially if your wrists are on the svelte side. The line includes five variations, but the PVD black-cased versions with either orange or mint green indices are the highlights. RRP $3595 AUD
Citizen Eco-Drive One
It’s not every day that a brand like Citizen rolls out something especially groundbreaking, but 2016 was not your average year. The Eco-Drive One is a remarkably thin variant of their light-powered quartz timekeepers, and a mighty fine way of celebrating 40 years of the Eco-Drive caliber. The entire watch is only 2.98mm thick, and as the name suggests, its movement is one millimetre thick overall. Given its fairly conservative design — and let’s face it, on account of the brand name on its dial — this is a very niche piece that you won’t see out in the wild all that often. To some, that’s all the more reason to track one down. RRP $2200 USD
Hamilton ODC X-03
Launched in November during Hamilton’s Behind The Camera Awards in Los Angeles, the ODC X-03 is another odd creation. Designed by Nathan Crowley, Oscar-nominated production designer of the film Interstellar, the new piece is properly spaced-out not only in design, but also in its peculiar mechanics. Its local time runs a compact ETA automatic movement, whereas UTC and home time are individually powered by two separate quartz drivers. That’s right, three movements crammed into a case not too dissimilar in proportion to that of a Linde Werdelin. Having seen it in the flesh, it’s surprisingly handsome and comfortable, though at just north of $3k for a Hamilton it’ll be a bit of a stretch to talk some buyers into it. Indicative RRP $3600 USD
Sinn 103 Ti IFR
We can always expect pretty bulletproof staples from the likes of Sinn, and this year they certainly didn’t dissapoint. Much in the same way that ISO 6425 is the baseline standard for any proper dive watch, Sinn took the lead with the German government in establishing DIN 8330 — an industry standard for German pilots’ watches that ensures safe and reliable functionality in the cockpit. Under this new standard, all models are rated to 200m water resistance, and tested for functional accuracy between –45°C and +80°C. Pretty cool, right? Both a UTC and a chronograph were unveiled with this new certification, however the titanium chronograph on bracelet is our favourite of the lot. RRP $4050 AUD
Rado HyperChrome 1616
Rado doesn’t always get the attention it deserves from jaded watch geeks, but anyone familiar with the brand’s creations from the ’70s will be grinning at this slick vintage-inspired gem. Available in either titanium or matt black ceramic and measuring a hefty 46mm, it’s certainly not as ‘true to original’ as the Oris Diver’s Sixty Five. Instead it opts for an ‘inspired by the past’ style, much like the recently reissued TAG Heuer Monza. With its a dose of vintage charm in modern proportions and materials, there’s a lot to like about the HyperChrome, but we’ll do our best to ignore the ridiculous ‘hypermasculine ode to the spirit of discovery’ comment in the press release. Marketing guff aside, it’s a damn sexy option worth your dollars. RRP $3925 AUD
9 watches from $4000 to $5000 (and a bit more)
Longines Avigation Type A-7
The words ‘value’ or ‘bargain’ don’t frequently come up when talking about a watch that’s getting close to $5k, but they’re totally applicable in the case of the Longines Avigation. It takes the heritage charm we loved in their 1918 model from Basel last year, and adds a monopusher chronograph in an offset case similar to the Vacheron Historiques American pieces – but for about a fifth the price. That’s a big win in our books. The darkness of the faux-patina indices might be a little heavy-handed, but overall it’s a killer piece that’ll grab attention every time you throw it on. RRP $4500 AUD
Tudor Black Bay Bronze
Man, we’ve got a hot topic with this one. It’s been getting attention from every corner of the watch world ever since it was shown at Baselworld and we all went, “They made it out of WHAT?!?” As a lover of the original Black Bay, it took me some time to get used to the size – though Felix fell right in love with its larger-than-normal Black Bay case and its casual charm. But if you’re a fan of watching a watch evolve over time (and you missed out on the now sold-out Oris Carl Brashear) this is pretty much THE bronze watch to buy. RRP $4750 AUD
Bell & Ross BR 123 Aeronavale
Bell & Ross has always had a fairly liberal take on the phrase ‘historical inspiration’, and it’s been known to get them in trouble – but dammit, they do it so bloody well. The two new watches in their Aeronavale line are a gorgeous shade of blue with vintage-style gilt indices — though be warned: its 100m dive rating, fixed bezel and blue alligator strap make it more of a desk diver than anything. RRP from $4200 AUD
Ball Fireman Storm Chaser DLC Glow
For those looking for something towards the dark and tactical end of the spectrum, Ball delivers on all counts. The Storm Chaser is powered by a modified Valjoux 7750, uses a screwed-down crown and pushers to allow for 100m of water resistance, but where it really wins is its heavy punch in the face of tritium lume. Using a mix of green, blue and orange tritium tubes it’s one of the funkiest (and brightest) doses of illumination you can get your paws on. It also comes with a silver dial, but in our eyes the black-on-black is easily your best choice. RRP $4795 AUD
Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture
In September, Frederique Constant added a little Champagne Supernova to their Slimline Moonphase Manufacture with this killer ivory sunburst dial. We’ve seen this oddball colour pop up in a few places including Rolex’s new 41mm Datejust, Eterna’s latest slim Granges 1856 and the vintage-styled Girard Perregaux Heritage 1957, and we’re not complaining. We were sick of all the brown dials, and blue has been bludgeoned to death by every brand under the sun so we’ll welcome any change of pace we can get. We’ve also been spotting a handful of green dials recently, begging the question of whether we’re going to see a Muddy Waters inspired ‘Champagne & Reefer’ year at Baselworld for 2017. Just remember, you heard it here first. RRP $4999 AUD
Bremont Solo/CR
Though the Bremont Solo line added a new polished case variant for 2016, it’s the earlier classics that’ll keep you from spending more than five grand. This black dial with cream indices is the one that always tugs at our heartstrings for combining classic vintage pilot charm with Bremont’s badass Trip-Tick case design and hardcore overengineering. It’s COSC certified, and still good for 100m so it can handle a day at the beach if you so wish. RRP $4960 AUD
Nomos Tangente Neomatik Nachtblau
Nomos launched four new Nachtblau (which crudely translates to ‘night blue’, FYI) models a few months ago that add a tasteful dose of colour to the otherwise blissfully understated repertoire. The Tangente has been a part of the Nomos catalogue since 1992, and to this day it’s a staple whose design is instantly identifiable. While other iterations of the Tangente are available in 33, 35, and 38mm, the in-house automatic powered Nachtblau only comes in a 35mm case that’s a mere 6.9mm thin. RRP $5110 AUD
Montblanc 4810 Day Date
Day dates aren’t for everyone, but Montblanc’s latest entrant into the niche segment is an impressive one to say the least. It’s the star patterned guilloche spreading like ripples from the Montblanc logo above the six o’clock mark that gives its dial a real stand-out vibe. If you’re in the market for something dressy, well finished, and most importantly a fair bit different than your average sub-$5k dress watch, this Montblanc is a fine contender. RRP from $4310 AUD
Mühle-Glashütte ProMare Chronograph
And now for something completely different. It doesn’t really get more ‘tool watch’ than Mühle, but rather than opting for one of their divers, the new ProMare chrono is my kind of charming. By using a carbon coating, its dial gains a great textured look to it — like a more subtle take on meteorite. As with all things Mühle, what started as a base Valjoux 7750 has been extensively modified before being fitted into the ProMare. At 44mm this is no svelte tuck-under-the-cuff number, but if you’ve got the wrist real estate it’s a comfortable piece that’s built like a tank. RRP $5615 AUD