Doxa finally adds a travel watch to its repertoire with the SUB 250T GMT
Jamie WeissWhen you’re diving at the bottom of the ocean, you’re probably not thinking about what time it is halfway across the globe – nevertheless, dive watches with GMT functions are extremely popular, something Doxa has addressed with their latest release, an ultra-legible GMT take on their ever-popular SUB dive watch. There hasn’t been a GMT watch in Doxa’s catalogue for quite a while now – almost 20 years, in fact – and the last Doxa GMT, the SUB 750T from 2006, was a very different beast, measuring up at a hefty 45mm in diameter and featuring both a technically and visually complex construction, with a compressor-style internal GMT bezel and a busy dial. In comparison, the new SUB 250T GMT is a much more refined and wearable prospect.
The case
Generally speaking, GMT watch variants of popular tool watches go one of two routes: they either radically reinterpret the design to facilitate the complication, or they keep things simple, not doing too much more than adding another hour hand or a second time zone subdial. The Doxa SUB 250T GMT falls into the latter camp. It features Doxa’s signature stainless steel tonneau-shaped case, imagined here in a 40mm diameter, which is a Goldilocks size for a tool watch: it’s not too big, but not too small. It’s also only 10.85mm thick. That would be considered thin for a time-only dive watch, so it’s impressive that it remains that svelte, considering its GMT complication.
For context, this lands the SUB 250T GMT right in the middle between the SUB 200T, which is 39mm by 10.7mm and the SUB 300T, which is 42.5mm by 13.4mm. Funny how that works. Also, you get no prizes for guessing its water resistance rating, which is 250 metres – much more than most GMT watches, by the way. Doxa fans will also be pleased to know that Doxa hasn’t done away with the SUB’s signature unidirectional steel dive bezel for this GMT watch, maintaining its core functionality as a diver’s tool.
The dial
At first glance, the dial of the Doxa SUB 250T GMT is virtually indistinguishable from the standard SUB 200T or 300T. However, a closer look will reveal a two-tone 24-hour scale around the chapter ring, as well as a large, skeletonised GMT hand that’s designed to minimally interfere with local time-telling and won’t obscure the date window at 3 o’clock. It’s clever, subtle and maintains the Doxa SUB’s utilitarian design language.
Doxa is known for its eye-catching, colourful dials, and Doxa fans will be pleased to hear that the SUB 250T GMT comes in all the signature Doxa colours: Professional Orange, which is the classic Doxa shade; Searambler silver; Sharkhunter Black; Caribbean, which is a Navy Blue; Divingstar Yellow; Aquamarine; Whitepearl, which is a pure white; and Sea Emerald, a green sunburst. Sea Emerald was only added to the Doxa lineup last year, and has quickly proven to be one of the brand’s most popular dial colours.
However, the big news with the SUB 250T GMT is that it also arrives with an additional vintage Sharkhunter dial option, which represents Doxa’s first-ever gradient dial. A homage to Doxa’s earliest Sharkhunter models, it has a luscious, almost tobacco-like sunburst fumé, complemented by aged lume. Speaking of hands, this model also features a different GMT hand to the other models in the range, which has a more traditional pointer style with a red, lume-filled tip.
When it comes to lume, all models utilise Super-LumiNova across their hour markers, hands and bezel pips, with two tiny dots of lume demarcating the hemispheres of the 24-hour scale. The hour markers are painted directly onto the dial rather than being applied or filled plots, which is a more retro look.
The straps
All nine models come with either a dial-colour-matched FKM rubber strap or a stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet, both of which feature safety clasps with a diver’s extension. Interestingly, the bracelet attracts only a US$40 price premium over the rubber strap, so in my opinion at least, opting for the bracelet is a no-brainer.
The movement
This Doxa’s GMT complication comes courtesy of the Sellita SW330-2, which here in this watch features a 50-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz. It features a quick-set date and GMT hand, as well as hacking seconds. This movement is only 4.1mm thick, which helps contribute to the SUB 250T GMT’s thin-ness, as does the closed screw-down caseback.
The verdict
Whilst this is perhaps not the most groundbreaking Doxa release of all time, I think it ranks as one of the best SUBs yet. Not only is it a proper Doxa dive watch, capable of robust underwater adventures, but its reasonable proportions and useful complication make it a versatile daily wearer. In some ways, its proportions rather than its complication are what makes it so attractive – the addition of a handy GMT function (and full disclosure, I’m a big fan of GMT watches; it’s my favourite complication, so maybe I’m a bit biased here) just sweetens the deal. In any case, it’s great to see another complication join Doxa’s current range.
Doxa SUB 250T GMT pricing and availability
The Doxa SUB 250T GMT is available now from the Time+Tide Shop, both in-store and online. Price: US$2,450
| Brand | Doxa |
| Model | SUB 250T GMT |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 10.85mm (T) x 42.9mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 250 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Professional, Searambler, Sharkhunter, Vintage Sharkhunter, Caribbean, Divingstar, Aquamarine, Whitepearl or Sea Emerald |
| Strap | FKM rubber strap or steel “beads of rice” bracelet, safety clasp with diver’s extension |
| Movement | Sellita SW330-2, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Available now from the Time+Tide Shop |
| Price | US$2,450 |