Doxa refreshes the SUB 200 range with a new steel bezel, proving that small changes can offer a big impact
Tom Austin- Doxa has unveiled a refreshed SUB 200, introducing a new bezel option in polished stainless steel.
- The new bezel offers a more traditional and technical look, bringing a brighter aesthetic but remaining true to the brand’s heritage.
- Launching in all eight Doxa colourways, the new SUB 200 is also available on either a steel beads-of-rice bracelet, colour-matched rubber strap, or textile strap for the Sea Emerald model.
There’s a paradox at the heart of modern dive watches: they’re designed to be visually functional and distinct, yet in their efforts to stand out, they end up looking remarkably alike. The Submariner-style aesthetic is the benchmark, and with good reason, too, as a dive watch, it’s practically faultless; however, Doxa has always done things differently. The entry-level SUB 200, which is one of their best-sellers, has always stood out as slightly different from the rest, and it just got a subtle refresh in the form of a new stainless steel bezel, giving the already sleek and unique design a fresher look in time for summer in the Northern Hemisphere.
Released in 2019, the Doxa SUB 200 has stood the test of time well. Among a crowd of divers with aluminium or ceramic bezels, text-heavy dials and atypical design language, the SUB200 stood out as a strong alternative while not straying too far away from the genre. It offers a retro vibe, without leaning too far into it with faux patina, and picks out features from the brand’s past, particularly the original reference 11804-4. The latest update thankfully hasn’t ditched the brilliant sapphire bezel inlay option, but rather added to it, now running the stainless steel bezel alongside it in the catalogue.
Everything else remains the same as previous with the latest release, the large but not too imposing 42mm 316L stainless steel case still featuring everything you need to dive to unreachable depths. Its 200 meters of water resistance comes thanks to a screw-down crown and case back, along with a domed sapphire crystal up front. Doxa haven’t disclosed the origins of the automatic movement inside the SUB 200 this time around, however, it seems to still be the familiar ETA 2824-2, decorated by Doxa and offering a 38-hour power reserve.
Another of the significant aspects of the SUB 200 is choice; options are abundant across the SUB 200 range in terms of dial colours and straps. So, now, if the original sapphire bezel felt too modern for you, the stainless steel bezel offers a more tool-like feel, much like the rest of the Doxa range. From the muted blue Caribbean and the dark black Sharkhunter to the vibrant yellow Divingstar and, of course, the iconic orange Professional, there’s a broad choice of dial options, each now appearing slightly different, contrasting against the new bezel.
I must say, I think I actually prefer this new steel inlay. It brightens everything up and, to my eyes, makes everything more legible and makes the dials really pop. Alongside this, there’s a range of colour-matched FKM beaded-style rubber straps on offer and the fabulous beads-of-rice bracelet, a Doxa fan favourite. As before, the green Sea Emerald configuration is offered with a green nylon NATO-style strap, which is probably my pick of the bunch when paired with the new bezel.
In a sea of the same old dive watches, the Doxa SUB200 has always stood out as something a little different; a connoisseur’s choice that also represents great value. It’s a great option for someone who’s looking for a dive watch that has heritage and has that retro feel we all like, but also offers some contemporary options to spice things up a little. The choice of a new stainless steel bezel sharpens up the line and makes it feel more like a traditional Doxa through and through, while still retaining the same brilliant bang for your buck.
Doxa SUB 200 S/S bezel price and availability
The Doxa SUB 200 stainless steel bezel range is available now directly from all Doxa retailers. Price: £920 (Sea Emerald on NATO), £1,050 (models on rubber straps), £1,090 (models on stainless steel bracelets)
| Brand | Doxa |
| Model | SUB200 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 13.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 meters, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Orange, black, silver, blue, yellow, turquoise, white, green |
| Lug Width | 19mm |
| Bracelet | FKM bead-style rubber strap Beads-of-rice stainless steel bracelet Green NATO-style nylon strap (Sea Emerald only) |
| Movement | ETA 2824-2 (unconfirmed), automatic |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | £920 (Sea Emerald on NATO) £1,050 (models on rubber straps) £1,090 (models on stainless steel bracelets) |