Does the Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris ‘Shadow’ deliver good bang for the buck?
Time+TideIt is common knowledge that micro and small independent brands can offer more value than most mainstream ones do. Not only the so-called “spec-monsters” which now offer standard specifications (sapphire crystal, good lume and water resistance) for a couple of hundred bucks, but also higher-end ones which give us access to rarer materials, superior finishes, and better components for less money. The situation is such that old houses of horology can no longer compete with the smaller and younger ones, and we, the enthusiasts, win. We now have access to brands such as Trematic and the T-Five Beigua Maris ‘Shadow’, whose generous list of specifications is only equalled by the singularity of its design and a reasonable price tag.
The case
And the good stuff begins right away, looking at the case and what it is made of, which perhaps wasn’t self-evident at first: grade 5 titanium. The more expensive version of the lightweight alloy (compared to grade 2) is composed of aluminium and vanadium, which increases titanium’s corrosion resistance and strength, making it light and strong. A fine choice for a tool watch whose design will make us feel compelled to wear it every day, and not only on the weekend or on vacation.
The case is further endowed with two types of finishes: a fine sand-blasting on most surfaces, including the crown, and several polished accents on the mid-case chamfers and outer ring of the octagonal, screwed-down knob. The crown does screw-down, so does the case, together endowing the T-Five with a respectable 300 meters of water resistance, which is, granted, more than most of us will ever need, but there it is. All of this comes in a 39mm diameter case, 45.5mm lug-to-lug and 13.8mm thick, and it weighs 77g on the hybrid FKM/waterproof strap.
Grade 5 titanium also appears to be coming with a darker tone than grade 2, at least it does here, giving the case of the Trematic a distinct tactical persona. Though the majority of it is sand-blasted, the brand added long and pronounced polished chamfers on the upper and lower sections of the mid-case, which visually narrows its footprint and makes it look aggressive whilst conversely spiffying it up a notch. The lugs turn down towards the wrist at a sharp angle, a movement that is accentuated by the brilliant polished accents.
The T-Five Beigua Maris is therefore endowed with plenty of character, which continues onto the bezel, the latter showcasing military-style knurling with outer polished plateaux and sand-blasted divots on a grade 5 titanium assembly, and complemented by a matte ceramic inlay where all markings are generously lumed. Lastly, there is a finely decorated case-back showing another set of mirror-polished surfaces and key specs engraved around the brand’s logo.
The dial
You might feel the same as I regarding the case: it does come with a lot of character, and it doesn’t look like anything you’ve seen before. It appears, as mentioned above, aggressive but certainly muscular and purpose-driven, which are visual characteristics we also see on the dial. And the latter might look familiar, as it is based on the 502 Archivio we looked at more than a year ago, the vintage-inspired and more elegant-looking older sibling of the T-Five. The Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris comes in a total of three variants: the fumé grey ‘Shadow’ we have in-hand today, a teal blue with hints of green called the ‘Marina’, and a sandy yellow called ‘Desert’.
From the Archivio, the diver borrows the handset, hour markers, and central minute track, though Trematic put it all through a design chamber to beef them up. First, the hour and minute hands kept the shape of Dauphine hands but are now much larger and sportier, with widened bodies which taper less than the original handset. These two, and the seconds hand, are entirely polished and lumed and constitute the only polished accents we find on the dial, a bit like Trematic mixed and matched matte and glossy finishes on the case.
Beyond the hands, we are met with a coherent set of hour markers and a fully graduated central track, which are easily visible through the crystal-clear ultra-domed sapphire crystal equipped with three layers of inner and outer anti-reflective coating. (I’ve rarely seen such a clear crystal.) At the centre of the dial, there is a lighter section on which we find the brand’s logo and mention of the depth rating, surrounded by a Type B-flieger style minute track to which Trematic added lumed rectangles every five minutes.
Beyond that track extends the darker side of the fumé treatment, which makes for the perfect backdrop for the three-dimensional applied hour markers entirely made of SuperLuminova, with rounded, vintage-styled Arabic numerals marking the even hours and flint-shaped ones marking the odd hours. At the 6 o’clock position, we see the two magical words “Swiss Made” and otherwise nothing else, since there is no traditional minute track, which makes the hour markers easy to read against the dial.
The strap
Dive watches nowadays can come on a variety of fastening systems, but more often than not, FKM rubber straps or pass-through nylon straps. Brands also rarely innovate in that category, and we generally have to look at independent strap makers to find something new.
Well, Trematic did something a little different and put as much efforts in the straps as it did into the case and dial: the T-Five Beigua Maris comes with two of them, both made of FKM rubber but one complemented by a sailcloth-like upper and a double-trigger deployant clasp. The second has a classic Tropic pattern and buckle.
The movement
And now you might not be surprised to learn that Trematic also didn’t skip on the movement, since it used a grade 5 titanium case, excellent lume, and an ultra-domed sapphire crystal. As indeed there is a La Joux-Perret G101 calibre inside beating away at 4Hz and coming with a whopping 68 hours of power reserve. The LJP G101 has become a go-to for many micro and smaller independent brands, and as far as we know, it is a reliable calibre.
The verdict
Compellingly compact for a dive watch, and distinct visually enough to separate it from the high-risk of aesthetic saturation within the category, the Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris ‘Shadow’ delivers, in our opinion, attractive specifications for the price, despite the label of value-driven becoming more and more competitive. While 13.8mm in thickness is by no means slender, it is also by no means too thick and certainly most wrists enjoy a 39mm diameter or 45.5mm lug-to-lug span. With a comfortably sized grade 5 titanium case and a very solid Swiss calibre, at €1,200, it’s less of a question of whether it delivers great spec for the dollar, and more simply, if the aesthetic aligns with your taste and personal preference.
Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris ‘Shadow’ pricing and availability
The Trematic T-Five Beigua Maris ‘Shadow’ is available now for purchase. Price: €1,200 / A$1,974
| Brand | Trematic |
| Model | T-Five Beigua Maris |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 13.8mm (T) x 45.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 300m, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Shadow, Marina, or Desert |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | FKM rubber strap + Tropic |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret G101, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 68 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | €1,200 A$1,974 |
Made in partnership with Trematic. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.