Detrash cleans up the competition and the oceans with its new Cali diver
Tom AustinSustainability is a topic seldom discussed in watchmaking. Watches, especially on the luxury end of the scale, seem to generally avoid scrutiny – perhaps due to their small size – giving the impression that their impact on the environment is equally minuscule. The truth is somewhat different, with around 16 million watches making up just the Swiss exports yearly, to over 900 million watches in all other forms worldwide. That’s a lot of watches and a hell of a lot of manufacturing in the process, especially considering how environmentally impactful things like steel manufacturing and processing can be. Not to mention the rest – things like plastics, composite materials, and everything else that goes into a watch. The more you think about it, the more precise the scale of the impact becomes.
However, that’s not necessarily to say that everyone should be made to feel bad about owning a watch today. Many large watch brands do act responsibly, with a number of them going to great lengths to attempt to offset their footprints. Companies like Rolex, which make up the lion’s share of the Swiss market, operate large sections of their business focused on charity and raising money and awareness for environmental causes, and they do a fantastic job of it, too. Nevertheless, few brands, especially the large ones, shout from the rooftops about the sustainability of their manufacturing, so there’s definitely more that can be done.
Detrash is here to change that, with a clear message of putting sustainability first and building a brand that takes its environmental footprint seriously. Founder Guy Blaskey is committed to building a good watch brand, which also does well by aiming to exceed by giving over 1% of the brand’s turnover to planetary causes and working with recycled materials for a large number of its processes. Their latest release, the Cali Melting Ice Cap Blue, aims to help keep climate change front and centre with a rather befitting name: the Cali Melting Ice Cap Blue.
The dial
The message is evident with the Melting Ice Cap Blue, featuring a bold, powder-blue dial. The dial surface is textured with a crackle finish. The blue theme continues across the royal blue California hour markers and the even darker blue handset. The theme of the watch is to serve as a reminder of the fact that the polar ice caps are constantly melting, and such a bold message is actually done quite subtly here, especially with the bright white Superluminova lume finishing the hands and 12, 6, 3 and 9 markers. Cliff, the Detrash mascot, sits at 6 o’clock, which is a fun addition and, combined with the quirky California layout, makes for an engaging, conversation-starting dial.
The case
The Cali is first and foremost a dive watch, but I like the fact that it doesn’t look like one straight away. There are no slender proportions here; it’s a tool watch through and through, at 41mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. It’s built with purpose, and at 12.9mm thick it has wrist presence for sure, in the way any modern dive watch should. The case is made from 80% recycled stainless steel, but attention has been paid to ensuring the grade is still equivalent to 316L surgical grades, so corrosion resistance is still high on the agenda. There are also some subtle nods to classic dive watches, too, such as the brushed surfaces paired with some lovely bevelled edges on the straight lugs.
An anti-reflective-coated sapphire crystal, screw-down exhibition case back and screw-down crown help to provide the watch 200 meters of water resistance, which, while not as high-performing as some other modern divers, is more than adequate for real-world wet activities. At this price point, you can’t really ask for more. Finishing the case is a brushed, 120-click unidirectional steel bezel, again made from recycled materials, with a minute track finished with a matching blue inlay.
The movement
Building a reliable dive watch has to extend into the movement, and Detrash has made a robust choice for the Cali, offering it with a Seiko NH35 automatic calibre. This popular self-winding mechanical movement features anti-shock technology, 24 jewels, 41 hours of power reserve, and that all-important sweeping seconds hand. It’s the movement of choice for some of the coolest microbrands on the market, so it’s good to see Detrash pick something sturdy, accurate, and hard-working for the Cali.
The strap
Straps tend to be an area where it is somewhat easier for brands to push the sustainability message, and Cali is no different. The watch comes fitted with a blue nylon-style textile strap, which is made from ocean plastic, recycled by #tide ocean material. Plastic waste pollution is a huge problem in our oceans, so it’s great to see straps being made from 100% recycled ocean plastics. #Tide (no relation to Time and Tide!) was actually founded as a spin-off from the Swiss watchmaking industry and, as such, is another example of Swiss watchmaking doing its part to try and minimize its impact on the environment. Each strap is finished with a recycled stainless steel pin buckle and is fixed via 20mm spring bars rather than being a military-style nylon strap. However, this allows for many different strap styles to be fitted, so the choice is yours.
The verdict
Brands’ commitments to actually being environmentally conscious and putting their specs where their mouths are can be somewhat ambiguous at best. Often, it’s easy to pick holes in the claims they make and question some aspects of their actions, especially regarding products and components made in areas where details are often vague. Detrash is doing great work here in trying to build a watch brand not only with less ambiguity but also standing by the message they put out from the beginning and being bold with it, too. The name “Melting Ice Cap Blue” says it all: when they wanted their watch to have a message, they consciously chose to name it something that would remind them of that message throughout. Also, the fact that at least 1% of the cost goes towards helping the planet in some way… It’s humbling to know that some brands out there care about what is really important.
Brand message aside, the Cali is a capable tool watch that ticks all the right boxes in terms of specs and looks. At this price level, it competes well with the competition, offering finishing and specifications that are well in line with overdelivering. It’s a unique-looking watch, too. With the California dial finished in that striking crackle-finish blue, it combines the classic dive watch style with a modern, bold twist.
Detrash Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue pricing & availability
The Detrash Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue is available now directly via the Detrash website. Price: £395, US$495, A$788
| Brand | Detrash Watches |
| Model | Cali – Melting Ice Cap Blue |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 12.9mm (T) |
| Case Material | 80% recycled stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and black |
| Dial | Crackle Blue |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | Textile strap made from #tide recycled ocean plastic |
| Movement | Seiko NH35, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | £395 US$495 A$788 |