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The second La Fabrique du Temps Daniel Roth is the simple, stunning Extra Plat Souscription

The second La Fabrique du Temps Daniel Roth is the simple, stunning Extra Plat Souscription

Borna Bošnjak
  • La Fabrique du Temps follows in the footsteps of Roth’s original release plan, following up a tourbillon with an extra-thin, time-only piece.
  • The Daniel Roth Souscription Extra-Plat lives up to its name, with a thickness of 7.7mm and the signature double ellipse case.
  • While it’s similar to the original in terms of style, the shaped movement is all-new, the DR002 sporting 70 hours of power reserve.

Even though the Daniel Roth brand has not been under the eponymous founder’s leadership for over two decades, it finally feels like it’s heading in the right direction. This time, this is thanks to Louis Vuitton’s escapades in reviving household names (Genta being another), and for LVMH Watch Week 2025, the brand’s La Fabrique du Temps high-end manufacture is announcing the second chapter in the story. The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription continues what the Tourbillon Souscription began, with the initial limited run of 20 pieces presenting in a solid, 3N yellow gold case housing a gorgeous, in-house guilloché dial, and a new, time-only movement.

daniel roth souscription extra plat dial close up

But let’s start with that dial. It’s classic Daniel Roth, with simple arrow hands floating over intricate guilloché and Roman numerals – in this case matching the blue hue of the hands. The two pieces separate the base and chapter ring, with the former’s clous de Paris pattern being produced in-house. It’s a great display of how effective traditional dial-making methods still are – I love how the fluted surround highlights the brushed hour ring, with the pattern getting proportionally smaller to properly line its interior circumference, too.

daniel roth souscription extra plat wrist

This traditional approach extends to the manufacturing of the case, where the lugs are individually made before being soldered onto the midcase, completing Roth’s trademark case shape. And speaking of the aforementioned Tourbillon, the Extra Plat has the same dimensions – 35.5mm across and 38.6mm lug-to-lug, but it’s the height that slims all the way down to 7.7mm. I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing a ’90s Roth Extra Plat C107 on the wrist, and if this one wears anything like that original Ellipsocurvex case, it’ll be quite something.

This new Extra Plat is presented in a yellow gold case, with only 20 pieces to be produced, but with the press release hinting at a follow-up model that will enter the permanent collection. Thinking back to Geneva Watch Days 2024 and the rose gold, permanent-collection Tourbillon – I wouldn’t be surprised if the non-limited Extra Plat follows suit with the case material.

daniel roth souscription extra plat movement

Even though it’s hidden behind a brushed, solid caseback – much like Roth’s original pieces – LFT went to the trouble of creating a shaped movement to fit the unique case lines. Louis Vuitton notes that the DR002 was “developed from the ground up for the Extra Plat Souscription”, though there are some carryovers from the Tourbillon. The crown and ratchet wheels have a similar design and finish contrasting against the vertical striping, with the balance cock of the Extra Plat echoing the black-polished support of the Tourbillon’s third wheel. The finishing does seem to be quite fine, with sharp outwards angle around the ratchet wheel alongside the usual array of anglage, countersinks, and solarisation.

The DR002 sports a 4Hz beat rate and an impressive 70 hours of power reserve, though interestingly, it is manually wound, while the original Extra Plat models featured the F. Piguet 71 and its offset rotor. While 3.1mm of the DR002 is thin, it emphasises how impressive that F. Piguet was at a mere 2.4mm despite the addition of automatic winding. With that said – comparison is the thief of joy – and the new Extra Plat does indeed spark lots of it.

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription pricing and availability

daniel roth souscription extra plat wrist 2

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is a limited edition of 20 pieces. Price: CHF 45,000 (~US$50,000)

Brand Daniel Roth
Model Extra Plat Souscription
Reference DBBE01A1
Case Dimensions 35.5mm (W) x 7.7mm (T) x 38.6mm (LTL)
Case material 18k 3N yellow gold
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front
Dial Clous de Paris guilloché
Lug Width 20mm
Bracelet and strap Calfskin leather, case-matching pin buckle
Movement DR002, manual winding
Power Reserve 70 hours
Functions Hours, minutes
Availability 20 pieces
Price CHF 45,000 (~US$50,000)