What makes D1 Milano different from most microbrands?
Buffy AcaciaWhile luxury watches do generally offer diminishing returns as four figures turn to five and six, it’s generally understood that you need to spend a decent amount of money to get certain things. Thoughtful minimalism? Pretty pricey. Interesting case materials? Definitely expensive. But the last decade has seen tremendous change in that regard, as we can see from a brand like D1 Milano. Its catalogue includes a diverse range of designs for all genders, including time-telling accessories that aren’t even wristwatches, none of them breaking the US$1,000 barrier. Now, some of its most popular models are available from the Time+Tide Shop.
D1 Milano is not a microbrand in the sense we’re familiar with. It wasn’t funded on Kickstarter or created by users of a watch forum, but rather it was created for Milan Fashion Week in 2013. Dario Spallone was in his final year of an economics degree at Università Bocconi at the time, and the business was incubated by its Speed MI Up program. Naturally, the Italian and specifically Milanese roots of the brand speak through its designs, and that’s a laid-back approach of 1970s quirk modified for contemporary tastes. You could consider them fashion watches, but I believe that all watches are fashion watches, and the quality of D1 Milano backs up its solid reputation.
A watch that you have likely seen on social media, and one that can now be purchased from the Time+Tide Shop, is the D1 Milano Polycarbon 40.5mm Sketch. It’s incredibly playful, but the novelty of its design is almost superseded by the surrealism of its execution. The stark contrast and outline of each element make the watch look like it’s been ripped out of a cartoon, like real-life cel-shading. Adding to that concept is the shakiness of the lines – as if they’ve been drawn by hand with a paint marker. Granted, the Polycarbon as a whole is obviously a Royal Oak homage. But you’re not going to find anything else that looks like it, unlike almost every other Royal Oak homage. Polycarbon is plastic, which means the watch is very lightweight, but it also means that it’s super affordable at US$195.
If plastic is a dealbreaker for you, how about actual ceramic? The D1 Milano Ceramica is proof that you don’t need to drop four or five figures on a ceramic watch that isn’t just black or white. Colour is difficult to get right with the kind of ceramics used in watchmaking, but the Pure Blue and Pure Green models are absolutely decadent. The polished surfaces have a liquid glossiness to them that’s intoxicating, and the emptiness of the dial really allows the strength of the case design to show through. I have recently written about the difference between minimalism and laziness in watch design, and D1 Milano has consistently shown what it means to be intentionally minimalist with careful thought and masterful execution.
Plastic and ceramic are certainly specialist materials, but D1 Milano also works in stainless steel. Indeed, the Ultra Thin in stainless steel is the most well-defined version of the brand’s favourite case shape. The chamfers of the bezel are highlighted with a polished finish in contrast to the vertical brushing of the rest of the case, and the Scarabeo emerald green dial is particularly dazzling in a sunburst finish. The dauphine hands and baton indices are clear about indicating the time, but there are no minute markers to distract from the overall effect of the dial. All D1 Milano watches use Japanese quartz movements to keep costs low and its watches attainable, which is perfect for lovers of design. The Polycarbon and Ceramica use Seiko movements, while the Ultra Thin uses one from Citizen to get its thickness down to just 6.2mm tall.
The D1 Milano Sketch and Ceramica collections will be available for a limited time exclusively in-store at our Time+Tide Discovery Studios in London and Melbourne. Price: starting at A$270.