The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads refreshes Czapek’s classically modern high-beat chronograph
Borna BošnjakThat’s an oxymoron of a title, isn’t it? Fret not, assuming that I can correctly explain myself by the end of this article, it should make sense. The topic of today is Czapek’s Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph, and more specifically, its latest variant – the Crossroads. The Faubourg de Cracovie isn’t a new model by any means, presented in 2018 as the brand’s third post-revival model, it has seen a few funky dials and special editions over the years. The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads arrives in two variants – one regular, and one limited – but both with a unique, new guilloché pattern engraved into a proprietary precious alloy dial.
The dials
So, let’s start there. The visual of the criss-crossing pattern gives away the inspiration behind the model’s name, which is an evolution of the double soleil guilloché used on earlier variants of the Faubourg de Cracovie. It’s a less traditional look, and one that combines well with the inclusion of the tachymeter scale (another novelty for the Crossroads), both giving it a sportier edge. There’s plenty of contrast, too – especially on the Deep Blue model – with its panda layout and silver contrasts. The size of the sub-dials has been reduced, and Czapek has also done away with the Arabic “12” at the top of the dial – both good moves that declutter the dial.
Other than the guilloché pattern itself, the main draw of the dials is their material. Developed for Czapek by Metalem (the same company that brought the amazing Promenade dials to life), the Crossroads uses Alloy 401 dials – a compound of 55% gold, with platinum, palladium, and silver added to the mix. Its colour is best on show in the Secret Alloy colourway that leaves the material exposed on the dial rather than covering it with a coat of paint. The contrast of colours is not as strong here, which lets the finishing shine all the better. I’m really fond of the transition between the lowest point of the dial – the sub-dials – all the way to the edge of the tachymeter scale, as the dial finish changes with each change in elevation.
The case
Despite this fairly traditional approach to dial-making (albeit with a pretty funky guilloché pattern), the Faubourg de Cracovie is not a classically sized watch. At 41.5mm in diameter, 13.9mm in height, and 47mm lug-to-lug, it’s well-proportioned for the average and bigger-wristed. In fact, Czapek recommends it to those with a wrist circumference of over 16.5cm on its website – and I’d say this is correct. As someone with a 6.25in/15.8cm wrist, I always found it to be just a tad too overbearing personally, which is possibly amplified by my affinity towards watches 5mm less in diameter.
The case construction follows this modernised idea, and you won’t find any lyre or cow horn lugs here. Instead, the steel surfaces have been polished for highlights, with the case sides and wonderfully integrated pushers also vertically brushed. Despite the Crossroads’ sportification, water resistance stays at an acceptable 50 metres.
The strap
Both of these models generally follow a blue/silver colour scheme, and the strap choices reflect that. Czapek is offering either a blue alligator leather or a blue Alcantara fabric strap, both with steel pin buckles and curved, quick-release spring bars. You can’t really go wrong with either, though my personal pick would probably be the alligator.
The movement
You might have gotten accustomed to hearing the words “in-house” associated with Czapek given the popularity of the Antarctique in the last few years, but it’s not the same with the Faubourg de Cracovie. The SXH3 calibre is based on the Vaucher VMF 6710, a movement modified by Parmigiani Fleurier’s third-party manufacturing branch for a few clients, including Richard Mille, and used as a base for TAG Heuer’s Monaco Split-Seconds. This means a 5Hz beat rate, 65 hour power reserve, and column wheel and vertical clutch operation while also being COSC-certified. Decoration is in line with expectations from Czapek, with a very modern approach side-stepping the usual striping and perlaging, instead opting for uniform surface colouring only accented by thin bevelling.
The verdict
The simple fact that Czapek is refreshing the Faubourg de Cracovie must mean that there was demand from its customer base, and the evolutionary changes made for the Crossroads are a step in the right direction. The precious metal of the dials together with the elegant shapes of the case retain enough of a classical elegance that informed so much of Czapek’s early designs that it doesn’t feel like too big of a departure from the brand ethos. This move to a sportier style works both in terms of the dial pattern and general direction for the model, as the large case size was always a bit too brawny for an ultra-classical, elegant chronograph – at least for me. For a steel watch with a movement that is still a modification of an off-the-shelf product, over US$40,000 is a lot of money. So while this particular Czapek won’t win any bang-for-buck awards (look to the Antarctique for that), it does deliver on its promises of a well-designed, larger sports watch from an independent brand, with the dials being a stand out as expected.
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads pricing and availability
The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Deep Blue and Secret Alloy are now available, with the latter a limited edition of 50 pieces. Price: CHF 36,000 (~US$41,500)
Brand | Czapek |
Model | Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads |
Case Dimensions | 41.5mm (D) x 13.9mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Water Resistance | 50 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Alloy 401 guilloché in dark blue or grey |
Strap | Blue alligator or Alcantara, steel pin buckle |
Movement | SXH3, Vaucher VMF 6710 base, automatic, COSC-certified, 5Hz |
Power Reserve | 65 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph |
Availability | Secret Alloy limited to 50 pieces |
Price | CHF 36,000 |