COSC unveils stricter new “Excellence Chronometer” standard + A. Lange & Söhne opens new Chicago boutique
Zach BlassWhile many people cannot appreciate how accurate a watch is when it runs within ten seconds a day, compared to their inseparable smartphones that basically keep perfect time, watch lovers certainly appreciate such a high level of regulation for their mechanical timekeepers. Well, this week, COSC introduced a stricter, higher-tier chronometry standard, A. Lange & Söhne opens a new Chicago boutique, and Hublot has announced a major new addition to its lineup of brand ambassadors.
COSC’s new “Excellence Chronometer” standard
As I mentioned earlier, among other parameters, COSC chronometers are known for running within +6/-4 seconds per day – a daily rate tolerance of ten seconds. This is a high level of precision timekeeping, yet other certifications, such as METAS or Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer, are even more stringent, perhaps introducing a need for COSC to introduce further certification. So, for the 50th anniversary of the 3159 standard, COSC has done just that with its new “Excellence Chronometer” tier of certification.
These “Excellence Chronometer” certified watches will continue to undergo the fifteen-day testing under the seven criteria of the ISO 3159 standard. Once cased, however, to achieve excellence, the movements inside the cased watches will need to hit a higher mark.
“Using a robot capable of simulating average wrist wear, the watch’s precision is tested under semi-dynamic conditions for 24 hours,” COSC explains. “This is followed by a measurement where the average daily rate must fall between –2 and +4 seconds per day. Next, the watch is exposed to a 200 Gauss magnetic field while maintaining its performance. Finally, its power reserve is checked to confirm the manufacturer’s stated specifications.”
The key elements of this new standard are a daily rate tolerance of 6 seconds instead of 10, increased magnetic resistance to at least 200 Gauss, and independently verified power reserve durations. It will be some time before we start to see “Excellence Chronometer” on the dials of various watches, but by October 2026, it is estimated that brands will fully enter this new process.
A. Lange & Söhne opens a new boutique in Chicago
Establishing a presence in the Midwest, A. Lange & Söhne’s 9th point of retail in the United States finds itself in a prime location in Chicago – very welcome news for those who have been itching to get hands-on with timepieces from the premier German watchmaker.
“We’re thrilled to make the historic Tribune Tower our home in Chicago, and the opening of our new boutique marks an important milestone for our retail network in the Americas, ” says Charles Langlois, A. Lange & Söhne Brand President, Americas. “Chicago is a world-class destination for watch enthusiasts, and we look forward to inviting them to discover our unwavering commitment to precision, tradition, and timeless elegance.”
Should you find yourself in the Windy City, the new A. Lange & Söhne boutique is located at 435 North Michigan Ave, Suite #108A, 60611, Chicago.
K-Pop superstar Jung Kook is now a global brand ambassador for Hublot
We know, we know… True watch geeks couldn’t care less about celebrity watch spotting or brand ambassadors. Well, W.I.S. whine all you want, the numbers don’t lie: brand ambassadors are immensely impactful in regard to increasing reach and awareness around watchmakers and their timepieces. Hublot has long had strong ambassadors, but its latest pick-up is a very wise move, capitalising on the rocketing appeal of K-Pop (and not just in Korea or Asia, we’re talking worldwide). So having Jung Kook, a member of BTS, join the roster will drive a lot of eyeballs to Hublot’s catalogue of watches.
“Performing Dreamers at the FIFA World Cup in 2022, with Hublot as Official Timekeeper of the competition, was a moment where time and music felt connected,” Jung Kook said about the partnership. “Now, collaborating with Hublot feels like that moment coming full circle. I’ve always admired the brand’s confidence, its craftsmanship, its way of creating its own path.”
Having long looked to fill the musical-ambassador gap left by former Hublot brand ambassador Jay-Z, bringing Jung Kook into the mix certainly reestablishes Hublot in the music world. Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!
Zach and the Time+Tide Team
Watch meme of the week: the four horsemen
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The only thing worse than a very hairy wrist is wrist stubble.
Wrist shot of the week: Niton time
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This wrist roll of the revived Niton Prima has us feeling all sorts of ways.
Time+Tide Shop pick of the week: Toledano & Chan b/1.3r “Gold Ripple”
Toledano & Chan’s latest take on their brutalist bestseller swaps stone dial mystery for unabashed luxury, sporting a solid gold dial with an intricate ripple pattern. But the b/1.3r doesn’t just have a new dial: it also features a 1.5mm slimmer titanium case, reducing bulk on the wrist. Read our full write-up on this beauty here.
The Toledano & Chan b/1.3r is available now exclusively in-store at our Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studios in London, Melbourne and New York City. Price: A$16,450. Find out more here.
Our favourite Time+Tide coverage of the week
Louis Vuitton’s Escale goes globetrotting and complicated with the Worldtime and Twin Zone
LVMH Watch Week 2026 was one of the fair’s biggest editions yet, and it certainly seems as if Louis Vuitton has begun to fully embrace its future as a proper watchmaker. If you look at the integrated bracelet Tambour as LV’s renaissance, then the grandeur and complications of its new Escale models is the brand entering its baroque period. LV is launching no less than six new references across three new complications, but we’ve zeroed in our attention in on two of them: the new Escale Twin Zone and the Escale Worldtime. Watch Jamie’s review on YouTube above, or read more here.
3 watch brands setting the pace, and 3 that could easily join them
If 2024 was the year of shaped, architecturally informed watches, then 2025 was the year of the technological breakthrough. We saw new escapements, more complications, and the most accurate movements yet, with the overarching watchmaking trend heading in that direction. It’s a year that saw 3 household names really step up and innovate, but Borna reckons there are a few other brands that could rise to the occasion in 2026. Read his thoughts here.
3-Watch Throw Down: Wrist Check Pod
There’s an energy that pulses through New York City’s watch scene that you simply can’t replicate anywhere else. It’s diverse, it’s bold, and increasingly, it’s being shaped by voices that bring fresh perspectives to an industry traditionally dominated by heritage and exclusivity. At the forefront of this cultural shift are Perri and Rashawn, the dynamic duo behind Wrist Check Pod, who recently joined us for a watch collection face-off – a 3-Watch Throw Down – that proved to be equal parts horological showcase and masterclass in why watches matter beyond their complications.