Colour and creativity is British watchmaking’s secret weapon

Time+Tide

There’s something distinctly uninhibited about British watchmaking, a willingness to push boundaries that sets it apart from the black-dial, blue-dial monotony that has dominated the industry for decades. At our recent British Watch Weekender event, this creative fearlessness was on full display, revealing why British horology has become synonymous with colour, character, and uncompromising individuality. Andrew spoke with four leaders of four very popular British watch brands: Studio Underdog’s Richard Benc, Farer’s Paul Sweetenham, Isotope’s José Miranda, and Beaucroft’s Matt Herd. Each of these founders showcased highly colourful and creative designs that ranged from watches inspired by pizza and cocktails, watches with insane straw marquetry dials, to burgundy-hued twists on classic, timeless design.

The diversity wasn’t just visual; it represented fundamentally different approaches to what a watch can be and say. Richard’s collaboration with Fears, a Manhattan-inspired timepiece, exemplifies the British approach perfectly. It’s not about forcing brand narratives onto customers; it’s about creating pieces that allow wearers to build their own stories.

As Richard explains, sometimes that story begins with meeting in Manhattan, having drinks with mates, and forming an emotional connection to a watch that celebrates that moment. Other times, it’s as simple as a daughter’s love for mint chocolate chip ice cream inspiring a purchase. This philosophy extends to our infamous pizza watch with Studio Underd0g, which began as an April Fools’ joke and became a legitimate product simply because the response was overwhelming. It was a ludicrous idea that contradicted brand principles, and that’s precisely why people loved it. You want to be loved or loathed, not merely liked.

Jose’s work with Isotope pushes this creative boundary even further. His straw marquetry dial, composed of 270 hand-glued 1.5mm pieces, took two months to complete and represents the audacious spirit of British watchmaking, even though Jose himself moved to the UK from abroad 15 years ago. His jumping hour complications and deconstructed Union Jack designs demonstrate how Britain’s openness to bold experimentation attracts and nurtures creative outsiders.

Farer occupies an interesting middle ground, traditional case designs married to explosively vibrant colours, as seen on pieces like the Farer Chrono-Sport Bernina Titanium above, or modern twists on classic complications like the moonphases with the Stratton. Paul Sweden cites Paul Smith as a major influence, noting how classic British design from the Concorde to the E-Type Jaguar has always combined heritage with striking modernity.

Beaucroft’s Matt Herd, though arguably the most conservative of the quartet in design, possibly sold more watches than anyone at last year’s Weekender, proof that even restrained British creativity resonates powerfully. His fume-dialled secret bestseller, inspired by Cambridge architecture, and his carefully calibrated burgundy-dialled piece show that British watchmaking isn’t just about maximalism; it’s about authenticity and refinement alongside boldness.

What unites these disparate approaches is a rejection of the safe middle ground. British watchmaking isn’t trying to please everyone; it’s carving out distinct identities that resonate deeply with specific audiences. The storytelling comes organically from customer experiences rather than manufactured marketing narratives.

Perhaps most tellingly, these brands understand that design alone isn’t enough. Quality and craftsmanship must back up the creativity, transforming colourful expressions into timepieces built like tanks that will serve their owners for decades. It’s practical creativity, very British indeed. As Matt eloquently noted, the goal is creating new classics through refinement, not revolution. Small iterative steps, signature editions that endure, and watches that remain interesting in 5, 20, even 50 years.

Roger Smith’s philosophy of simplification echoes here—innovation should make things better, not just different. British watchmaking’s fearless creativity isn’t about chaos; it’s about confidence. The confidence to be weird, wonderful, and unapologetically yourself.