The most collectable quartz watches to annoy the snobs
Mitchell BarberThe relevance of quartz watches as an option for “serious” collectors has been hotly debated on the forums, blogs and at the meetups. “They don’t have a soul”, “they tick” or “it’s a glorified Apple Watch” are all arguments against quartz that are based on a whole lot of nothing – just excuses to follow the crowd instead of following your curiosity to an actually fascinating technology. Some of the most prestigious brands currently make, or have made, quartz watches in the past, and it’s no longer a technology that was necessary for a brand’s survival in the mid-`70s. Quartz is now a platform for innovation, performance and craftmanship that many brands are embracing.
But first, how do we define a quartz watch? In the last few years, the line between mechanical and quartz has been blurring. Take Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive for example. It’s a bit of both. So, to avoid attracting any unwanted commentary about my choices, I’ll classify them as any watch that regulates its timing with a quartz crystal or a microchip. That means it can be powered by either a battery or mainspring. Do we all agree? Don’t @ me.
In a nutshell – if you’re ignoring quartz, you’re missing out. So, in the interest of expanding your horological horizons, here’s our list of the five most collectable quartz watches.
Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch
No list about collectible quartz watches would be complete without the completely ridiculous success that is the MoonSwatch. This watch stopped the world when it was released on March 26, 2022, a few days before the annual Watches and Wonders fair in Switzerland. With a case made from Bioceramic and a quartz chronograph movement, the MoonSwatch is a great way to get some of the way to a big boy Omega, at a fraction of the cost. The case dimensions and shape are identical to the full-fat Moonwatch, and you get multiple colour options, plus a surprisingly high-definition planetary image on the battery cover. If you’re a space nerd, this is the one for you.
If you do want one, however, you’ll have to battle the other space watch/secondary market pricing fans that want a piece of the MoonSwatch pie – especially if you want a Snoopy version, an extra-exclusive piece with the loveable cartoon dog making a cameo appearance. Pull out the camping chair, get comfortable, and don’t forget an umbrella! Price: US$270
Citizen Caliber 0100
If accuracy is your jam, there’s no going past the Eco-Drive Caliber 0100 from Citizen. With an annual tolerance of +1 second per day (yes you read that right), it’s the world’s most accurate watch. They were able to achieve such accuracy by using a manufacturing technique called LIGA or Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung – German for lithography, electroplating, and moulding. This deserves its own article, but here’s the process in short – you create a mask (stencil) that you can shoot X-rays through, and the “shadow” it makes electroplates a metallic material onto a surface. It’s the same process used when making microchips. Creating small parts this way all but eliminates tolerance issues. Science is amazing. Collecting is all about having the best of things, and the Caliber 0100 certainly is the best in its class. Price: US$8,800
Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date
A long-underappreciated watch from Rolex that has exponentially gained traction combines the precision of a quartz movement with the prestige of Rolex’s iconic Day-Date. The Oysterquartz Day-Date was introduced in 1977, not just as a response to the quartz crisis, but also a jab at the emerging integrated bracelet trend. Gerald Genta revolutionised the sports watch in the early `70s, and you better believe Rolex wanted a piece of the pie! Despite being discontinued in 2003, the Oysterquartz Day-Date remains highly coveted by collectors due to its relative rarity, unique movement, and integrated bracelet design. It represents a significant chapter in Rolex’s history and one that is unlikely to be repeated. Interestingly, Rolex service centres keep spare parts to maintain serviceability for Oysterquartz watches, so there’s no need to take your Oysterquartz for a shopping centre battery swap. Price: at auction anywhere between US$8,000 to US$14,000
F.P. Journe Élégante
I would be remiss not to mention a watch from one of the hottest brands in the horosphere – F.P. Journe. Who doesn’t want a Chronomètre Bleu, am I right? Pedigree of its maker aside, the Élégante and its Calibre 1210 is a technical masterpiece that pushes the boundaries of what’s possible with a quartz watch. Its headline feature is its standby mode. When the watch is motionless for 35 minutes, it stops the movement of the hands – all in the interest of preserving battery life. One would be forgiven for thinking that when this happens you would have to reset the time whenever you wanted to wear the watch – thankfully this isn’t the case. With the help of electro-mechanical wizardry, the Calibre 1210 keeps track of the time and resets the watch as soon as motion is detected, when you pick it up off your side table for example. You can see the motion detector through an aperture at 4 o’clock on the dial. The hands will then spring into life, taking the shortest path to the correct time. Magic! This system makes for a huge battery life, 8 to 10 years in normal use and up to 18 years in standby mode. Give one to your newborn and they won’t have to change the battery until they’re out of the house!
And I couldn’t go without mentioning two recent additions to the Élégante line that are even more collectable than the standard production. Those are the Gino’s Dream that was introduced at Watches and Wonders this years, and the newly released blood red version that marks the F.P. Journe restaurant in Geneva earning its first Michelin Star – two fun takes on this technically advanced quartz watch. Price: starting form US$16,500
Patek Philippe ref. 3587 and ref. 3597
More commonly known as the Patek Philippe Beta 21, these, big, chunky, TV-shaped watches have become somewhat of a curiosity over the years. But when they first came out, they were a pure statement of intent from the Swiss watch industry that they were not going to the take the quartz crisis lying down. With 20 of the major houses, including Omega, Piaget, and Patek Philippe, coming together to form the Centre Électronique Horloger (CEH) and taking nine years of trial and error to come up with the Beta 21. Today, they can still be found in these audaciously designed pieces from a handful of brands, but the most sought after has to be the ref. 3587 and 3597 examples from Patek. Price: at auction between US$10,000 to US$20,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quartz
Let’s face it, there’s no shortage of Royal Oaks in this world. They have been in production since the early ‘70s and have had countless references spanning different sizes, materials, colours and complications. That said, there has never been a point in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak’s history where they have not been collectable, or sold for extravagant prices. Despite being created as a reaction against the quartz crisis, quartz has of course found its way into plenty of the Royal Oak models with smaller cases, with or without extravagant diamond placement. A lot of these quartz references have been designed with women’s wrists in mind, however there are plenty of the 33mm models that make great genderless options. But the seemingly stackable 23mm in Frosted Gold have taken the spotlight of late with the ability to have more than one on one wrist at a time, blurring the line between watches and jewellery. Price: US$34,400