Christopher Ward & Studio Underd0g join forces for a pocket watch wildcard, The Alliance 02
Tom Austin- British microbrand bastions Christopher Ward & Studio Underdog have united to create one of the most unusual releases of the year.
- Limited to 100 pieces, The Alliance 02 is a unique, contemporary pocket watch with a design based on Christopher Ward’s Light-catcher case, incorporating a 3-dimensional, fully illuminated Studio Underd0g 02SERIES dial.
- It utilises Christopher Ward’s in-house CW-001 hand-wound calibre, which offers a 120-hour power reserve.
It’s not often that a new watch release makes me do a genuine double-take. But upon receiving photos of a new watch named “The Alliance 02”, I had to make sure my eyes weren’t deceiving me. If a collaboration between two of the most compelling British watch brands wasn’t exciting enough by itself, they’ve only gone and flipped the whole narrative. Shortly after wrapping up their tri-watch partnership with Fears, Studio Underd0g has revealed they’ve been working alongside Christopher Ward on a very special pocket watch.
That’s right, a pocket watch. True collaborations should be about creativity and innovation, combining two approaches and bringing together great minds who aren’t afraid to think outside the box. Thankfully, both Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g have proven over recent years that they are both independently capable of that, so really, is it a surprise that what we’re seeing today is a showstopper? The Alliance 02 brings together a bespoke pocket watch case, based on Christopher Ward’s signature Light-catcher design and Studio Underd0g’s multi-layered, sapphire sandwich dial from the 02SERIES field watches.
Christopher Ward’s Light-catcher case design doesn’t get talked about enough. It’s less a specific design language and more a design philosophy, and it’s now a trademark that spans almost the entire CW range. Inspired by the lines, curves and angles of an Aston Martin DB9, the Light-catcher combines an overall low profile with seamlessly blending curves and surfaces to create a signature look. Here with the Alliance 02 pocket watch, the theme continues, despite how differently the watch is worn than usual.
Overall size is less critical with pocket watches, so a decision to go big is understandable, with the Alliance 02’s stainless steel case measuring 44mm. Naturally, it’s finished to Christopher Ward’s typically high standards, with stunning polished and brushed surfaces throughout.
Like a traditional pocket watch, the oversized crown sits at 12 o’clock, in between two long, narrow lugs that are in fact one piece, fixed to the case via neatly hidden screws. The polished bezel is thin and softly curved, framing a domed sapphire crystal, which is well paired with a large sapphire exhibition case back at the rear of the watch. The result of these features is a tactile watch that feels great in the palm of your hand, and the oversized crown adds a traditional touch, especially when winding.
One look at The Alliance 02, and Studio Underd0g’s influence is evident. The dial is made up of two layers, the first being the brass base dial, which carries seven meticulously applied layers of custom-made Super-LumiNova pigment, finished in a gradient that shifts from an off-white to a peachy, light orange colour. Being fully luminescent, the entire dial lights up at night, just like the 02SERIES dials it’s based on, and provides a truly unique look I don’t think I’ve ever seen on a pocket watch before.
Above that sits a 1.4 mm-thick sapphire disc with a printed minute track and sans-serif Roman numerals, Christopher Ward logo, and large power reserve indicator at six, all of which give that incredible feeling of floating above the base dial, casting shadows and making all the details stand out. The Roman numerals are a steep departure for Christopher Ward, as they’re something only seen on a tiny scale on the Bel Canto Classic. They’re an apt choice for The Alliance 02, to give it an overall traditional look, without going too modern.
The Alliance 02 features Christopher Ward’s in-house CW-001 hand-wound calibre, formerly known as the SH21. It’s a COSC-certified movement that boasts a 120-hour power reserve, achieved via twin mainspring barrels, which is perfect for a hefty pocket watch like this. The power reserve is proudly indicated up front with a large subdial, making winding the watch a bit of an event, as it should be. It’s neatly decorated, too, with abstract-shaped bridges adorned with radial côtes de Genève visible through the exhibition caseback.
Finally, the watch is finished with a leather strap, just not as you’d know it. Folded up through the extended lugs is a long, brown, braided leather strap, closed with a stainless steel stud. It suits the design well, but can be easily swapped out for something that matches your outfit, since that’s especially important with a pocket watch.
“When Richard from Studio Underd0g pitched the idea of a pocket watch, we knew immediately it wasn’t the ‘sensible’ choice… so we said yes,” CEO and co-founder of Christopher Ward, Mike France, explains.
This is the beautiful part about projects like this, especially collaborations with Studio Underd0g. As a brand, they playfully push people out of their comfort zones, usually just adding stylistic choices that stand out and add some creative flair, but with The Alliance 02, they’ve pushed Christopher Ward way beyond that. For most watch brands, releasing a pockeet watch in 2025 would be commercial suicide, but that couldn’t be further from the truth in this instance. On top of all that, all profits from the 100-watch limited edition will go directly to the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, supporting its work and bolstering the British watch and clock-making industry.
Christopher Ward x Studio Underd0g The Alliance 02 pricing and availability
The Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g The Alliance 02 is limited to 100 pieces, and will be available exclusively to members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, who must pre-register to qualify for purchase at britishwatchmakers.com. The Alliance 02 will then be available to purchase from Christopher Ward from Thursday, December 11th at 3 pm GMT. Price: £2,995
| Brand | Christopher Ward x Studio Underd0g |
| Model | The Alliance 02 |
| Case Dimensions | 44mm (D) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Gradient off-white/orange, fully luminescent, multi-layered sapphire sandwich construction |
| Strap | Brown braided leather strap |
| Movement | CW-001, in-house, manually-wound |
| Power Reserve | 120 hours (5 days) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator |
| Availability | Limited to 100 pieces |
| Price | £2,995 |