The new Christopher Ward C60 Trident Biscay looks back across six decades of diving

Tom Austin

The skin diver occupies a particularly appealing corner of dive watch history. Built for the breath-hold divers and recreational swimmers of the 1960s, these watches traded the bulk of professional equipment for slimmer cases, lighter proportions and a more relaxed character. Christopher Ward has drawn on that period for the C60 Trident Biscay, a new collection named after the famously temperamental stretch of Atlantic between France and Spain. Its box crystals, warm lume, applied Arabic numerals and slender cases capture the visual language of those early skin divers without turning the collection into an over-literal period reproduction.

The Biscay also looks inward, picking up details that have shaped the Trident family across its many generations, dating back as far as 2009. The Trident counterweight remains on the seconds hand, the faceted signature Light-catcher case continues to play with brushed and polished surfaces, and the bezel retains the purposeful grip expected of a C60. Even the collection’s colours feel connected to earlier Christopher Ward divers, especially the red bezel, which has appeared in various forms over the years. During a recent visit to Christopher Ward HQ, I spent time with the Automatic, GMT and Bronze models across both case sizes. Together, they read as a considered survey of Trident history, filtered through the gentler proportions and warmer palette of a 1960s skin diver.

The cases

The steel Automatic and GMT are both offered in 39mm and 42mm sizes, giving the collection two distinct presences on the wrist. The 39mm has the compact, composed feel that suits the skin-diver brief particularly well. The 42mm gives the large numerals and broad bezel more room, creating a stronger visual footprint. Both use Christopher Ward’s signature Light-catcher construction, with crisp facets and a smooth transition between polished and brushed surfaces. The lugs turn down neatly, and the narrow case band keeps the watch looking slim from the side.

The Automatic measures 11mm thick, including its box-shaped sapphire crystal. That figure is impressive for a watch with 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown and an exhibition caseback. The GMT rises to 12mm to accommodate its additional hand and movement architecture. It still feels controlled on the wrist, helped by the way the crystal carries some of the visible height. The more intricate bezel teeth also deserve attention. They add a fine mechanical texture around the case and make the bezel easy to operate without giving the watch an overly aggressive edge.

The time-only Bronze arrives exclusively in 39mm and uses CuAl10Ni5Fe4 marine-grade aluminium bronze. The alloy contains approximately 10% aluminium, 5% nickel and 4% iron, and is commonly used for demanding marine applications. Its patina should develop gradually and evenly, preserving the bright golden colour for longer. That quality was immediately apparent at Christopher Ward HQ. Fresh examples had a clean, honeyed tone, and the case felt more luminous than the deeper, browner bronze familiar from many watches.

Bronze also runs through the collection as a visual idea. The steel models borrow warmth from their hands, markers, numerals, and bezel markings, giving the range a coherent identity. On the Bronze watches, Christopher Ward selected a specific rose-gold plating for the hands and hour markers to closely match the colour of the bronze case. The result is, of course, harmonious. Case, dial furniture and bezel details sit within the same warm tonal range, and the plating avoids the pink cast that a generic rose gold treatment can often introduce.

The dials

Applied Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 establish the Biscay’s character. They are large enough to define the dial from across a room, with alternating baton markers filling the remaining positions. The granular dial surface softens reflections and gives the colours a slightly mineral quality under changing light. A restrained amount of text leaves plenty of open space around the hands and markers.

The steel Automatics include black-dial configurations with black or red dive bezels. The black version feels calm and traditional, especially on the polished multi-link Consort bracelet. The red bezel dramatically changes the watch. In person, it has a rich, warm saturation that works beautifully with the cream-coloured bezel markings and dial lume. The Bronze models push the palette further, pairing their golden cases with brown or green aluminium bezels and corresponding dark brown or green dials. The green has an earthy depth, and the brown combination makes the bronze feel especially cohesive.

Each aluminium bezel is surface-hardened to 250 HV, a claimed 67% increase over untreated aluminium. This treatment retains the low-gloss colour and fine texture that suit the Biscay, with added resistance to everyday marks. The warm luminous markings are especially important to the overall appearance. Christopher Ward developed a custom pigment of Super-LumiNova Grade X1 BL to evoke aged radium, and the colour sits naturally beside the bronze tones.

The GMT offers its own 24-hour bezel combinations, including blue on a white dial, and red-and-black bezels on a matte black dial. A fourth hand tracks the additional time zone, and the date aperture replaces the six o’clock numeral. The off-white dial with blue bezel has the freshest character in the range, aided by a blue-outlined GMT hand. The darker GMT feels richer and more vintage-inspired, with warm furniture connecting it directly to the Bronze. Luminous material fills the GMT bezel’s numerals, dots and triangle, producing a complete ring of information after dark.

The movements

The Automatic and Bronze use the COSC-certified Sellita SW300-1, visible through the sapphire caseback on the Automatic. Christopher Ward has fitted a newly designed rotor and specified elaboré finishing, giving the view a level of decoration appropriate to the price. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a 56-hour power reserve.

The GMT uses the COSC-certified Sellita SW330-2, which runs at 4Hz and has a 56-hour reserve. It provides caller-style GMT adjustment, allowing the additional hand to be set independently. All three models have the same chronometer tolerance of minus 4 to plus 6 seconds per day. These movements also help preserve the Biscay’s slim profile, which is central to how the watches feel on the wrist.

The straps

Steel models can be ordered on the three-link Bader or five-link Consort bracelet. The Bader gives the Biscay a cleaner, sportier appearance. The Consort adds extra articulation and catches more light, bringing out the polished facets of the case. Both bracelets now feature Christopher Ward’s iLink tool-free sizing system, first introduced with the latest Sealander collection.

I watched the system being demonstrated during my visit to Christopher Ward HQ, and was suitably impressed. A discreet button releases each removable link, allowing the bracelet to separate without a screwdriver, pin pusher or sizing block. The links were removed and reattached in seconds, making bracelet sizing not only quick, but a surprisingly fun, fidget-friendly experience. It is one of those features whose usefulness becomes clear as soon as you handle it, especially for owners who regularly adjust bracelets or prefer to size a new watch at home.

The Hybrid strap combines a rubber base with a Cordura-style woven surface and tapers from 20mm or 22mm at the lugs to 16mm at the clasp. A Vintage Oak leather option gives the collection a more overtly mid-century character. Both use quick-release spring bars. The Bronze is offered on these strap options, allowing its case to remain the visual focus.

The verdict

The C60 Trident Biscay gives Christopher Ward a softer and more historically minded expression of the Trident. Its 1960s skin-diver influence shapes the proportions, typography and box crystal, and details gathered from the wider Trident family keep it recognisably connected to the brand. The 39mm Automatic feels especially convincing as a compact everyday diver, the GMT adds colour and practical complication, and the marine-grade Bronze brings the collection’s warm palette into sharp focus.

The most successful element is the way bronze informs every version. Its influence extends beyond the dedicated case material to the lume, dial furniture, bezel markings, and carefully selected rose gold plating. Add the slim cases, 200-metre water resistance, chronometer-certified movements and genuinely useful iLink bracelet system, and the Biscay feels like a well-resolved new branch of the Trident family, with a character strong enough to stand apart within an increasingly broad collection.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Biscay Collection pricing and availability

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Biscay Collection is available now from Christopher Ward’s online boutique, with pre-orders available at the Time+Tide Studios in London, New York and Melbourne. Price: From £1,330/€1,740/US$1,870 (Biscay Automatic), £1,430/€1,850/US$1,995 (Biscay GMT), £1,495/€1,950/US$2,095 (Biscay Bronze)

Brand	Christopher Ward
Model	C60 Trident Biscay Automatic C60 Trident Biscay GMT C60 Trident Biscay Bronze
Case Dimensions	39mm (D) x 11mm (T) (Automatic, GMT & Bronze) 42mm (D) x 12mm (T) (Automatic & GMT)
Case Material	Stainless steel, bronze
Water Resistance	200 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire front and back
Dial	Black, white, green (bronze model only)
Lug Width	20mm
Strap	Hybrid or vintage leather strap with pin buckle, stainless steel Bader bracelet or stainless steel Consort bracelet
Movement	Sellita SW300-1, automatic Sellita SW330-2, automatic (GMT)
Power Reserve	56 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds Hours, minutes, seconds, date (GMT)
Availability	Available to pre-order now at the Time+Tide Studios in London, New York and Melbourne
Price	From £1,330/€1,740/US$1,870 (Biscay Automatic) From £1,430/€1,850/US$1,995 (Biscay GMT) From £1,495/€1,950/US$2,095 (Biscay Bronze)