Chanel pays tribute to the Roaring Twenties with “The Lion of Mademoiselle” ring watch (live pics)
Andrew O'Connor- Chanel releases a lavish new ring watch for Dubai Watch Week 2025.
- “The Lion of Mademoiselle” is crafted from 18k yellow gold, features a hidden quartz watch head, and is set with 357 diamonds in total.
- Inspired by the opulence of cocktail rings in the 1920s, this haute joaillerie/horlogerie creation is limited to 5 pieces worldwide.
When the brand Chanel is brought up, most people think of women’s fashion, handbags, and perfumes. Petrolheads and old Top Gear fans may remember Jamiroquai frontman Jay Kay joyfully dousing himself in No. 5 in the back of his Mercedes 600 Grosser, once owned by the famed fashion designer herself. Chanel is a force to be reckoned with, though, when it comes to watchmaking. The J12 is an icon on its own, popularising and cementing ceramic as a mainstream watchmaking material. Chanel is also fully capable of some spectacular high watchmaking, has invested in a 25% stake in MB&F, and owns a 20% share of Kenissi. I think it’s fair to remove any doubt that Chanel doesn’t take watches seriously.
But that does not mean watches cannot be without whimsy… Or unabashed, borderline insane opulence. Enter Chanel’s latest release, highlighted at Dubai Watch Week 2025: a ring watch titled “The Lion of Mademoiselle.” As Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was a Leo, she chose the lion as a symbol for the brand, with lion motifs seen on jacket buttons, bag clasps, and other jewellery items. This latest ring watch took inspiration from cocktail rings of the 1920s: crafted out of 18k yellow gold and set with 256 brilliant-cut diamonds, the top of the ring is a sculpture of a lion’s head, tying into Chanel’s chosen animal totem. The lion head was not left out of the gem-set treatment, as it is also set with brilliant-cut diamonds. 102 of them, to be exact.
The watch portion comes into play when one pushes the lion’s head back to reveal a hidden watch within the ring. The watch features a black-lacquered dial over an onyx plate, with a single but large princess-cut diamond below the dial at six o’clock. Measuring 13.5mm in diameter, the watch displays hours and minutes and is powered by a high-precision quartz movement. This release is part of a larger lion-based collection, including the Diamonds Astroclock, a necklace watch, a double-headed lion ring watch, and the Monsieur Platinum Lion Tourbillon watch.
I feel it is important to consider, when considering modern jewellery watche,s that jewellery-integrated timepieces have been an essential part of horological history. The first watches were really worn by women, and early, small timepieces were made into necklace pendants and rings, with examples dating back to the 16th century. These timepieces were status symbols, not just for the sake of high-end jewellery, but also to showcase the technological developments to make a movement small enough to be wearable. Downsizing movements from clocks to pocket watches, and then to jewellery pieces, was an important progression to making movements small enough for wristwatches.
While a mechanical movement would have been welcomed by some, Chanel’s use of a quartz movement in this instance seems better suited for this application. Timepieces incorporated into non-wrist-worn jewellery also seem to be having a moment, with a number of jewellery-based timepieces being worn on high-profile red carpets. Ring watches in particular have seen a resurgence as well, ranging from accessible and fun watches to high jewelry showpieces. While certainly not for everyone, I think Chanel’s creativity and audacity when it comes to timepieces deserve applause.
Chanel Ring Watch “The Lion of Mademoiselle” pricing and availability
Chanel’s Ring Watch “The Lion of Mademoiselle” is limited to just five pieces. Price: upon request
| Brand | Chanel |
| Model | Ring Watch “The Lion of Mademoiselle” |
| Reference Number | H10303 |
| Case Dimensions | 13.5mm (D) |
| Case Material | 18k yellow gold snow-set with 256 brilliant-cut diamonds (~5.48 carats), lion’s sculpture set with 102 brilliant-cut diamonds (~3.04 carats) |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Lacquer black over onyx |
| Movement | High precision quartz |
| Functions | Hours and minutes, watch face concealed by hinged cover |
| Availability | Limited edition of 5 pieces |
| Price | POA |