The Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon merges a diver’s aesthetic with a high-end complication
Zach Blass- The Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon is a limited edition of 55 pieces.
- Its 50-metre water-resistant blue ceramic case, 38mm in diameter, has a black-coated steel bezel set with 4 carats of baguette-cut sapphires.
- The manufacture Calibre 5 presents a 42-hour, manually wound, flying tourbillon that is diamond-set.
Chanel and dive watches are two things you would be faulted for thinking are completely unrelated. Dive watches and tourbillons, not really a thing either. The J12, though not necessarily a true dive watch, has certainly caught the eyes of watch wearers and collectors due to its fashionable twist on the dive watch aesthetic by leaning into ceramic to bring in added flair. As a watchmaking brand, Chanel has reached new heights in recent years. The J12, first launched 25 years ago, has made notable strides even in its most basic configuration, improving water resistance from 50 metres to 200 metres, and utilising a superior Kenissi calibre. And if you needed any more proof that Chanel is clearly not messing about having, the brand also bought stakes in independent watchmakers such as F.P. Journe, MB&F, and Romain Gauthier. In 2022, Chanel debuted its first-ever in-house tourbillon movement, the Calibre 5, in a J12 Diamond Tourbillon. This year, Chanel presented a blue take on this pinnacle J12 model: the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon.
Like the first J12 Diamond Tourbillon, the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon is executed with a ceramic case and bracelet, a gem-set, coated steel bezel, and a crown set with a diamond, and once again houses the Calibre 5. The novelty lies in the “Bleu”, with a new colour for the ceramic case and bracelet that have both been adorned with elevated brushed and polished surfaces requiring eight hours of hand-work per watch.
This blue-themed tourbillon is equipped with a black-coated steel bezel that is set with baguette-cut sapphires that match the colour of the case and bracelet, which would all feel quite stealthy if it all stopped there, at least as gem-set watches go. With a diamond set into the crown, and another, much larger one set into the carriage of the tourbillon, it’s pretty hard to ignore the sparkle, especially when that tourbillon diamond is solitaire-cut, which is meant to increase its reflectivity.
The J12 was never meant to be a dive watch, merely a more fashionable reinterpretation of the aesthetic in a time when it was particularly popular. As a result, I don’t foresee professional divers foregoing their dive computers for a J12, and certainly not for the Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, and not just because it’s limited to 55 pieces. This one is for the design-forward crowd that have already advanced their collections enough for a watch like this to make sense. Its tasteful incorporation of gemstones on top of the pleasantly symmetrical Calibre 5, and all under this new matte blue guise, makes the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon work within a familiar diver’s format, but is ultimately anything but, instead bringing something fresh to a saturated segment.
Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon Watch pricing and availability
The Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon Watch is available now for inquiries, limited to 55 pieces. Price: on request
| Brand | Chanel |
| Model | J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon Watch |
| Reference | H10334 |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) |
| Case Material | Blue ceramic, black-coated steel bezel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Blue, two open apertures |
| Strap | Blue ceramic bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 5, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited to 55 pieces |
| Price | POA |