The challenges of running an independent brand, as told by the people behind them
Borna BošnjakWhile it’s true that much of the watch world tends to focus on the latest and greatest from the big box brands, it has to be said that micro and independent brands have been getting an increasing amount of attention even from the mainstream watch lovers. This could be down to a number of factors – whether it’s lack of availability from established names or simply a closer connection with the smaller brands – one thing’s for sure – this is a good thing. But with so many of these new brands popping up, this is bound to bring about some difficulties. What those are differ greatly based on the kind of brand you’re running, so what better way to find out what these challenges are than asking the brand owners directly?
To ensure an even playing field, we asked three different founders the same three questions – you can find these below.
- There are many people out there with ideas they believe would bring something new to the table, but many aren’t even sure where to begin. What would be your top three tips for anyone looking to start a watch brand from scratch?
- Having a great idea and a quality product is one thing, but getting people to actually buy it is another. How do you ensure your designs will resonate with your potential buyers? And is it possible to make accurate predictions when it comes to sales figures?
- Many people flock to smaller brands as they feel they have a closer connection to its founders when compared to the big box stuff. How much does customer feedback truly impact final design, and how do you deal with criticism?
Oliver Gallaugher, O.G
We begin with Oliver Gallaugher, founder of the brand O.G. His decade-long path to realising and delivering his first-ever production series of watches is a great showcase of overcoming challenges, whether that’s simply not having the connections due to being self-taught, or an unexpected final hurdle in getting one of his first ten production pieces stolen in transit. A passionate watch lover, Gallaugher knew that he could turn his creative writing background around somehow, and the culmination was the O.G Deep Space series. Partnering with Glashütte-based DK Precision Mechanics, the Deep Space features elaborate finishing to its Unitas base calibre, and a unique, minimalist dial with hand-engraved elements. With the final Deep Space pieces having reached their new owners, Gallaugher is already teasing his second design.
Tips on how to get started…
Here’s four. Define what you want to create in great detail and why you want to create it. Write the story. No BS. Be authentic.
Observe successful brands. What qualities do they have that make them successful? Be inspired by them, but seek to improve on them with your own brand identity.
Get to work on the parts of the brand that you can build yourself. When you do need to approach others for their involvement, show them, and they’ll take working with you on it more seriously.
Persevere. It will likely be ten times harder and take ten times longer than you expect, but in the process you will learn ten times more than you know now, and you’ll realise the timing was right in the end. If you are the kind of person who is curious, takes initiative at every step and perseveres, you will be able to create anything.
On ensuring your designs resonate with buyers, and predicting sales figures…
It can be an exciting exercise to try and predict sales, but there are no guarantees. Do you believe in it? Do others love it? Are you confident in its value compared to other watches in the same price range? If yes to all, that’s great. Minimise your risk, and do it. After one success, you’ll likely have the interest of more potential customers, so there’s a higher probability that your next project will sell.
How many? You’ll find out exactly once you ask those potential customers.
On the personal connection with smaller brands, and dealing with criticism…
Customer feedback must be an important part of the development process. It can help refine areas of your watches and customer experience, but it should never overshadow your vision of what you want to create – that’s what those customers were drawn to in the first place.
It’s not nice to receive negative opinions, especially if you feel their criticism is the result of a misunderstanding or just plain ignorance. The majority of people will be positive, constructive or at the very least silent! You can’t please all of the people, all of the time. You have your opinion and so does everyone else – especially the watch community.
Susan Galvin, Galvin Watch Company
What would an experienced watchmaker who has worked for the likes of TAG Heuer and Omega do when made redundant as a result of the pandemic? If you’re Susan Galvin, you’d launch your own watch brand, and that’s exactly what she did. The Galvin Alku was a Kickstarter success, followed by the aurora borealis-inspired Loimu and the tonneau Suvi, the three collections now serving as a basis for what is the first female-run watch brand in Australia.
Tips on how to get started…
Ultimately, finding a reliable manufacturer is key. Having years of experience in the industry made it easier for me to start building the watch, as I was already familiar with the terminology and processes. In my opinion, strong communication is the most important factor – you want to work with a manufacturer who communicates well and understands your needs.
I started by sketching my ideas on paper, and then reached out to several manufacturers for quotes and minimum order quantities. Once I found the right one who aligned with my vision, we moved to the next phase – creating 2D drawings. For my first collection, I also hired a graphic designer to produce 3D renderings before moving into production. After finalising the design, I ordered samples to ensure everything was perfect before manufacturing.
On ensuring your designs resonate with buyers, and predicting sales figures…
I always like to test the market by gathering feedback on my designs from newsletter subscribers, social media followers, and by sharing photos in relevant forums. I’ve even incorporated some of the suggestions into the final designs based on popular demand.
For all my collections, I’ve relied on crowdfunding as a safer way to build the watch brand. Predicting sales figures for new collections can be incredibly challenging, and crowdfunding has been the best option for me so far. It ensures that production only begins once the funding target is met, minimising the risk and aligning production with actual demand.
On the personal connection with smaller brands, and dealing with criticism…
People have been incredibly supportive, and the feedback I’ve received has been largely positive. As I mentioned, I’ve incorporated some of the suggestions related to the designs, although, naturally, not all suggestions can be implemented.
I frequently engage with my customers, and they really appreciate the chance to connect directly with the brand owner. Since my brand has a Finnish flair, with design names and inspiration drawn from Finnish nature, I often hear from people who share their Finnish roots. They love seeing a watch collection inspired by Finnish names and the beauty of the country’s landscapes.
Richard Benc, Studio Underd0g
Our last founder needs very little introduction, seeing as we’ve not only featured him on the site numerous previous times, but also thanks to his wide-reaching success, and to put it down to “food watches” would be missing the point. Studio Underd0g’s name hints to the inspiration behind the brand’s roots, leading Richard Benc and co to collaborations with the likes of H. Moser, as well as creating a certain pizza watch. While these three questions offer a tidbit of insight into the brand, Andrew made sure he gets the full low-down – in video form.
Tips on how to get started…
Don’t be afraid to stand out. One of the main contributors to the success of Studio Underd0g was our approach to product design. Many new brands tend to let big data dictate their brand direction. Aspiring brand owners will often look at the market and see that dive watches make up the vast majority of the demand. When it comes to colour, it’s clear black dials are always in high demand. Suddenly, most new brand owners will have some form of Submariner homage, not accounting for just how saturated this sort of product is. Studio Underd0g was a passion project meaning I wasn’t having to think commercially. This allowed me to produce a unique and distinct product with little comparable competition.
Bring people on your journey. You’ll need enthusiasts to share the word of your new venture.
What can you do that the big boys can’t? One of the unique aspects of bringing a new brand to market is that you’ve got much more freedom than most big brands do. This can be a major advantage.
On ensuring your designs resonate with buyers, and predicting sales figures…
Design preferences are subjective. I personally don’t design with my buyers in mind. I design watches for myself that I want to wear, and so far this approach has resonated with the enthusiast community.
It’s impossible to accurately predict demand. The best way to tackle this no man’s land is to be prepared and have various solutions for different levels of demand. What does the project look like if I sell 50 pieces, 100 pieces, 500 pieces or 1,000 pieces etc. Having a plan that can ebb and flow is important.
On the personal connection with smaller brands, and dealing with criticism…
Customer feedback is useful for making minor adjustments and tweaks to a design. For example, if people are having issues winding the watch, then considerations for future production runs can be made such as increasing the size of the crown. I typically don’t let feedback dictate major design decisions. Criticism is an opportunity for improvement. Big brands will pay consultants big bucks to identify areas for product improvement, as the decision makers at the top are often so far detached from market feedback. As a brand owner that still controls our Instagram, I’m able to gauge feedback and criticism straight from the horse’s mouth and act quickly!