We go hands-on with Cartier’s new redesign of the legendary 1928 Privé Tank à Guichets
Zach BlassThough it seems counterintuitive for the horological fanbase that once rabidly decried quartz and digital as the enemy, we have seen collectors really lust for watches that forego traditional displays of time – pieces that, though mechanically driven, utilise digital displays. While it feels like a modern twist to mix a digital display with a mechanical movement, it is surprisingly anything but. And this isn’t a phenomenon that has been around for a few decades, but rather a few centuries. In 1830, it is said the first-ever mechanical pocket watch with a digital display was made, and less than 100 years later, Cartier would be long ahead of the current trend with its Tank à Guichets in 1928. Cartier’s latest Privé revival brings back this rare and coveted design in 2025.
The backstory
Taking a step back, the Cartier Tank was first born in 1917, and now, a century later remains regarded as one of the greatest wristwatch designs of all time – a certified icon worthy of that often overused moniker. Everyone, regardless of whether they consider themselves a WIS or not, knows the Cartier Tank. But what many may not be as familiar with is that the Tank à Guichets was born just 11 years later. Cartier attributes the design of the Tank à Guichets to the changing landscape of the late ‘20s, in which the rise of trains and cars became an everyday reality, where its two time-telling apertures offered a quicker means of reading the time to a world that was beginning to move faster at large.
With its jump hour and dragging minutes displays, the Tank à Guichets, at least technically speaking, was the first Tank to include a complication. This initial model shared a similar form to the normal Tank, though was a bit longer lug-to-lug. The crown was atypically placed at the 12 o’clock position, with a fully brushed case front that revealed the jumping hours through a squared aperture at the top, and the minutes with a semi-circular aperture below.
Throughout the 1930s, Cartier would further evolve the Tank à Guichets with other design configurations that would play with the shape of the apertures and brancards, the materials used for the case, and even the position of the crown. These designs were largely unique, and rarely serialised.
Fast forwarding to 1997, Cartier celebrated its 150th anniversary with a platinum, limited edition revival of 150 pieces, and eight years later, in 2005, the Tank à Guichets returned as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris, with a limited series of 100 pieces in rose gold. Twenty years later, the design makes its timely return with four configurations – only one of which is billed as a limited edition.
The new Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets
The core, standard-production trio that does not bear a limited edition disclaimer is faithful to the original 1928 design. The cases, available in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum, return the crown to the the top of the case, and the apertures appear much more faithful in shape and scale than the 2005 revival as well. Even the font seen on the discs seems closer than ever to the 1928 original.
All three cases are brushed on the front, with a mirrored bevel introduced strictly on the edges of the brancards. These non water-resistant cases all measure 24.8mm in width, 37.6mm in length, and a very slender 6mm thick – giving it a classic feel and profile. I really love that Cartier does not bend to a market that, at least until recently, demanded measurements be more modern and larger. This size is perfect for such a timeless design.
The alligator leather straps have been carefully selected to match the colour of the numerals in their respective time displays. The only model to have a colour-contrasting strap is the 200-piece limited edition Tank à Guichets, a platinum variant that, while still using a red colour for its time displays, is paired with a black alligator leather strap. Though dimensionally identical, it playfully shifts the hours to 10 o’clock and minutes to 4, paying tribute to the 1930s designs. All four watches are driven by the manually-wound calibre 9755MC.
Final thoughts
Some could dismiss this new Privé collection as basic. I mean… There is no crazy perpetual calendar or tourbillon high complication. This is a watch that strictly displays the hours and minutes, not even the running seconds. This will only be highly sought after because its Cartier some will say. And that’s perhaps true to some extent, but keep in mind that there’s no Cartier branding to be seen on the front. The brand power that Cartier has, and the effect such prominence has on the retail price and premium market value these watches will inevitably command is because anyone looking at this watch, despite it not loudly proclaiming so anywhere on the case and the dial, will know that it’s a Cartier.
The Maison’s unimpeachable mastery of design and details is what makes its timepieces so beloved and on-trend – whether we’re talking about the audiences of 1928 or 2005. I wish I could say the fact three of these are not billed as limited editions means there will be enough for everyone to score an allocation, but I suspect it will be very competitive. The price, yet to be confirmed, stands to be substantial if the Privé Tank Normale from 2023 is any indication – with the yellow gold model on a leather strap priced at US$31,000. Love it or hate it, and whatever the price is, should someone be foolish enough to let one go to the secondary market, they will undoubtedly get a return on their investment. That being said, if you have the pull to buy one – do not be a flipper. We will all hate you for it.
Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets pricing and availability
For more information on availability, please enquire with your local Cartier boutique. Price: US$47,700 (gold), US$55,500 (platinum), US$61,200 (platinum, asymmetric)
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Privé Tank à Guichets |
| Case Dimensions | 24.8mm (W) x 6mm (T) x 37.6mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, platinum |
| Water Resistance | Non water-resistant |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire aperture crystals |
| Dial | Brushed front, hours and minutes apertures |
| Strap | Coloured alligator leather strap, case-matching pin buckle |
| Movement | 9755 MC, manually wound |
| Functions | Jumping hours, dragging minutes |
| Availability | Enquire at your local Cartier boutique Platinum variant with asymmetric display limited to 200 pcs. |
| Price | US$47,700 (gold) US$55,500 (platinum) US$61,200 (platinum, asymmetric) |