Bulgari’s new Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini feature gems and gold beads that actually move like scales
Jamie Weiss- Sumptuous Pallini takes on the iconic Serpenti make their grand return to Bulgari’s range.
- These three models’ bracelets feature gold beads and/or diamonds individually set on a gold mesh, allowing them to quiver and dance with the wearer’s movement.
- Rather than quartz movements, their watch heads utilise Bulgari’s impressively small Piccolissimo BVL100 manual-winding movement.
Few watches are as sumptuous or seductive as the Bulgari Serpenti. First launched in 1948 and designed by the Maison’s founder, Sotirios Voulgaris, the Serpenti quickly became an enduring and iconic watch and jewellery design, all thanks to the enigmatic motif of the snake evoking ancient Roman glamour. That glamour and opulence reached new heights at Geneva Watch Days 2024, with Bulgari reintroducing the Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini, an extravagant and kinetic fusion of high jewellery and high watchmaking.
You might be asking: what sets the Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini apart from other time-telling Serpentis? First appearing in Bulgari’s catalogue in 1955, “pallini” means “small round beads” in Italian, and refers to the unique construction of this type of Serpenti bracelet. Essentially, the scales of the snake are comprised of hundreds of small gold beads or diamonds, each individually set on a gold mesh, which allows them to quiver and dance with the wearer’s movement – like the snake is actually alive.
In French, this technique is called “en tremblant”, which means “to tremble”, and was developed by jewellers in 18th-century Paris, typically using coiled springs rather than a mesh. Not only is this form of gem-setting a demonstration of a jeweller’s skill, but it was designed to emphasise the flickering reflections created by candlelight – a concept that remains just as romantic in the 21st century. Because of this setting technique, each of these watches takes over 500 hours to make by hand.
Bulgari’s new Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini collection consists of three different models: one with white gold, gem-set head and tail combined with a yellow gold bracelet; another with the same head and tail, except topped with a gem-covered crown and featuring a rose gold bracelet partially set with diamonds; and a final show-stopper that’s completely white gold and completely gem-set across its head and entire bracelet. All three models feature snake heads paved with brilliant-cut diamonds and eyes made from pear-shaped emeralds plus diamond-set watch bezels, while the two “crowned” models additionally feature diamond-paved watch dials, as well as those extra gems in their heads. The totally gem-set model boasts almost 67 carats of diamonds – which is beyond ridiculous, especially when you consider that many of those are not fixed – and represents the most luxurious Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini yet.
Speaking of those watch dials, we are a watch magazine after all, so let’s talk about the watches in these Serpentis! Perhaps the biggest update to the Pallini that these 2024 releases bring to the table is that they now feature mechanical movements. Previous Pallini models, and indeed most Serpentis, have used quartz movements – however, these new models utilise Bulgari’s impressive BVL100 Piccolissimo manual-winding movement. This teeny-tiny, time-only calibre, which was introduced in 2022 and specifically developed for Serpenti models, is the smallest watch movement released in the 21st century.
It’s only 12 millimetres wide, 2.55 millimetres thick, weighs around 1.3 grams, and features a balance wheel made from white gold that’s only 5.4mm in diameter. It beats at 3Hz and has a 30-hour power reserve. As it would look weird to have a crown sticking out of the Serpenti’s head, the Piccolissimo is wound with a key system similar to a vintage pocket watch, except rather than using a key you have to carry around, there is a slim winder built into the back of the watch’s case.
As unbelievably extravagant as these three Serpentis are, you could almost make the argument that their manual-winding movements are the biggest extravagance of all. These sumptuous serpents are more jewellery pieces than watches: with that in mind, the convenience of a quartz movement you don’t have to wind seems far more fit for purpose than a tiny mechanical movement. But I’m glad Bulgari has given these Serpentis Piccolissimo movements because they’re entirely thematic. These watches aren’t meant to be practical, they’re meant to be outrageous. These are snake-shaped bracelets that dance and shimmer. They’re utterly ostentatious – and also demonstrate what makes Bulgari so interesting: its ability to execute advanced watchmaking as well as insane jewellery.
Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini pricing and availability
The Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini collection is available now upon request. Price: €256,000 (yellow gold bracelet), €464,000 (rose gold bracelet), €708,000 (white gold, entirely gem-set).
| Brand | Bulgari |
| Model | Serpenti Misteriosi Pallini |
| Reference Number | 104027 (yellow gold bracelet) 104026 (rose gold bracelet) 104025 (white gold, entirely gem-set) |
| Case Material | Yellow gold/white gold (104027) Rose gold/white gold (104026) White gold (104025) |
| Water Resistance | Not stated |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Mother of pearl (104027) Diamond-paved (104026 and 104025) |
| Bracelet | Tubogas-style coiled bracelet, set with gold beads and/or diamonds en tremblant |
| Movement | BVL100 Piccolissimo, in-house, manual-winding |
| Power Reserve | 30 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | €256,000 (104027) €464,000 (104026) €708,000 (104025) |