The battle for thinness rages on with Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s new thinnest tourbillon watch (live pics + video)
Buffy Acacia- Bulgari’s new record-breaking release is the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, which is just 1.85mm thick!
- The integrated movement, dial and case have been skeletonised to further cut down on unnecessary layers.
- The main plate is made from tungsten carbide for strength, while the case and bracelet are lightweight titanium.
Whenever a record for thinness is broken, you should set an alarm for one year’s time when it will inevitably be broken again. At least, that’s what’s been happening for the last few years between the two titans of thinness, Bulgari and Piaget (with Richard Mille and Konstantin Chaykin chiming in as well with their efforts, too). In 2023, Bulgari took the world’s thinnest watch title with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC at 1.7mm, and Piaget sniped back with the world’s thinnest tourbillon with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon at 2mm thick. Now, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon has leapt ahead of the tourbillon list, smashing Piaget’s achievement for a total thickness of just 1.85mm.
At this point in the race for the thinnest watches, we must surely be reaching the threshold of possibility. These watches don’t only need to be thin, but they need to be strong enough to wear and reliable enough to not require constant repairs or servicing. Concepts such as case and movement no longer apply because such elements have become integrated by necessity.
In order to achieve the 1.85mm thickness of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bulgari turned to a complete skeletonisation that removed sections of the caseback. What is left are essentially movement components just sandwiched between sapphire crystals, and any further reduction of thickness would need to come from the movement parts themselves. It’s complex, beautifully executed, and ultimately the kind of genius that will be difficult to top.
Despite the wafer-thin case, the character of the Octo Finissimo remains intact. The octagonal bezel and harsh, faceted lugs take their inspiration from the Roman architecture of Bulgari’s origins, and while the 40mm diameter does wear fairly large in this shape, the use of titanium in the case and bracelet makes it feel nearly weightless.
The main plate, which serves as both dial and movement, is made of tungsten carbide — a metal composite that’s usually used in machining due to its strength and resistance to wear. The bracelet itself is an impressive feat of engineering, being just 1.5mm thin (including the clasp).
The calibre BVF 900 is what you see when you look at the dial, and you can check out plenty of its parts from the rear view, too. The mainspring barrel is the largest element of the dial because of its 42-hour power reserve needing to be preserved horizontally. You’ll find the hour and minutes sub-dial on the upper right, with the incredibly eye-catching skeletonised tourbillon below. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, which is already faster than many standard tourbillons, and there are two separate planar crowns located on the caseback. The one on the left side of the case winds the watch, while the one on the right sets the time. There are no extra tools or attachments needed; exactly how any watch should be worn.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon pricing and availability
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a limited edition of 20 pieces. Price: US$678,000
| Brand | Bulgari |
| Model | Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon |
| Reference | 104313 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 1.85mm (T) |
| Case material | Titanium |
| Water Resistance | None |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Skeletonised tungsten carbide main plate |
| Strap | Titanium bracelet, 1.5mm thick |
| Movement | Calibre BVF 900, in-house, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon, planar crowns for winding and time-setting |
| Availability | Limited to 20 pieces |
| Price | US$678,000 |