INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Dial bounces into town on a rubber strap

Zach Blass

Since its inception in 2014, the Octo Finissimo was an absolute game changer for how the watch enthusiast community perceived the Bulgari brand. Sure the brand always enjoyed a successful niche, but the lineup of Octo Finissimo watches with their unbelievably slimline cases grabbed the attention of men and women who love watches all around the world. These were a testament to the horological prowess the brand commands and made brands previously known as the kings of ultra-thin watchmaking hastily scramble back to the drawing board. Now the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Opaline Dial refreshes the thinnest automatic chronograph watch in the world with its new dial tone and all new rubber strap.

The black opaline dial introduced in this model is effectively the inverse of what we have seen from the Chronograph GMT previously. Whereas the original was a matte silver/gray with black printed numerals, indices and hands, we now have a matte black opaline dial with grey/silver printed numerals, indices, and hands. It’s complications are crisp, clean, and easy to read with the GMT at the 3 o’clock position, elapsed minutes at 6 o’clock, and running seconds at nine

As the watch is not part of the “S” series of Octo Finissimo watches, the new Chronograph GMT Titanium remains 42mm in diameter, 6.9mm thick, 48.8mm lug-to-lug, and 30 metres water-resistant. The titanium case is entirely sandblasted, more in line with the finish found on previous Chronograph GMT models. While the “S” model with a blue dial and silver registers caters to those who want increased robustness, the black opaline dial in titanium allows those who prefer the specifications and dimensions of the past to have something new as well.

The in-house caliber BVL 318 is only 3.3mm thick in diameter – quite incredible considering it powers both chronograph and GMT complications. The movement is finished with nice Geneva stripes and bevels, all of which are on full display thanks to a peripheral 950 platinum rotor that mitigates an obstruction of view to the movement as well as the overall thickness of the caliber and watch. The platinum rotor is not utilised for style, but function – it makes the rotor wind the watch more efficiently thanks to its greater heft.

One thing that does strike me as odd is the introduction of a rubber strap to a 30 metre water-resistant watch. F.P Journe claims with his Elegante that you can swim without fear – and that watch is also 30 metres water resistant and on a rubber strap. Perhaps this is the case with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium as well. My advice though, don’t push it. Literally. Chronographs have two Achilles heels in their architecture when it comes to submersion in the form of the pushers. If depressed under water, it becomes an easy avenue for water to leak into your case and wreak havoc on its internals. Fortunately the rubber strap does pair well with the dial, and its casual coolness will certainly be comfortable on the wrist.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Opaline Dial pricing and availability:

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium Black Opaline Dial will be available in Bulgari boutiques and online via Bulgari.com. Price: $17,200 USD