Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love

Kylie Lloyd-Wyatt

Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued love for the brand. In fact, if you Google famous Hublot wearers you’re met by a Who’s Who of celebrities including Kobe Bryant, Floyd Mayweather, Ryan Reynolds and Tiger Woods. Interestingly there are very few women on this list, the only ones I could find being Beyonce (a true queen of style) and Italian Instagram sensation and entrepreneur Chiara Ferragni.

So what gives? Why are women shying away from rocking Hublot in favour of a Day Date? Hublot have released some cracker watches aimed at women over the years, so it’s not for a lack of trying. I dare say small-wristed reader that you already know at least part of the answer. The Hublot and its Big Bang is seen as, well, BIG. Along with that, there’s a bit of a boys-club vibe around the Big Bang that might be a barrier for women. In modern culture, Hublot has become synonymous with a masculine power and status flex, though I would argue that us girls can and should get amongst this too.

For the compact-wristed men reading this, you are not forgotten. I’m sure you to would love to flex a Big Bang, so I’m here to tell you that you absolutely can if you make the right selection.

Elephants

OK, let’s get the elephant in the room out of the way. There is no escaping that Hublot is controversial in the watch world. Either you love the watches or you hate them and I dare say that most traditional watch enthusiasts are in the latter category. Most cite off-the-shelf movements, lack of finesse and high price as detractors and perhaps they’re right if they are the only measures of a watch brand. So why would I suggest you take a second look? It’s simple really, when I see a Hublot I can’t help but smile and feel happy that this irreverent, fun-loving and innovative brand exists. Let’s also not forget that Hublot has the legendary Jean-Claude Biver seal of approval and that they also masters of materials, conjuring up scratch-proof Magic Gold amongst other things. That has to count for something right?

For me it comes down to the fact that, in a sea of humdrum traditionalism, Hublot bucks the aesthetic trend and innovates using interesting and often novel materials, shape and colour in dial, case and strap – the 2017 Big Bang Broderie models and more recent Orlinski Classic Fusions are standouts for me. The 2023 releases are no exception. They are a masterclass in gem-setting, sapphire case construction and material creation with their ‘Saxem’ sapphire x aluminium oxide and colour use. I mean, how can you not smile at a rainbow and if you know me you know it’s a fait accompli. To counter the nay-sayers, I’ll also highlight that recently Hublot have utilised their LVMH connections to source Zenith Elite movements for some of their pieces and in-house manufactured others for some of their higher-end complications.

Big Bang and Beautiful

Let’s get down to it. Which Big Bang Hublot in the current collections will suit us smaller wrist sorts? If you’ve been on the Hublot website recently, you will see that there are over 100 Big Bang variations, so if you can narrow down the case size that suits, you’re spoilt for choice in terms of aesthetic.

I would usually not suggest a 40mm case with an integrated style aesthetic because most watches have a solid end-link that extends beyond the lug-end, making the effective lug-to-lug larger than stated. The 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only collection, however, is a delightful exception with a downward angled and slightly flexible end link allowing easier wear on its stunningly crafted bracelet. Powered by the HUB1710 based on the Zenith Elite 670 automatic movement, these time-only versions are also quite thin at 9.25mm making them even more wearable for small wrists, not to mention they are beautifully designed. Anyone want to buy me the Integrated King Gold Rainbow? The 39mm versions come on a rubber strap that flares out from the lug and also have a solid end-link. The rubber is a quite rigid too, so getting a comfortable fit might be more problematic.

If a 40mm pop of colour feels like too much, there is plenty in the 38mm Original Big Bang collection. Despite a solid end-link, an approachable lug-to-lug of 45.5mm makes this amiably wearable even with the factory rubber strap. The gorgeous 2023 Novelty 39mm ‘One Click’ Big Bang, resplendent in uncoloured sapphire and diamonds might also tickle your fancy if you have the budget. Unfortunately, the newly released high complication watches, including the stunning purple Tourbillon are 43 to 45mm wide with solid end-links and rubber straps, but us wrist petites can dream and well, Hublots are meant to be big and bold so if you love it, go for it!

Hublot Does Restrained…Really!

If you’re after a more demure choice, at least for Hublot, a Classic Fusion might just be the Hublot you’re looking for. The new Original Yellow, Black and Titanium in either a 33mm quartz or 38mm automatic (based on a Sellita SW300-1a) offers upmarket but restrained (for Hublot) 1980s inspired design. For the history buffs among us, there is more than a nod to Hublot creator Carlo Crocco, especially the new yellow version that borrows heavily from the stylings of the first ever Hublot; yellow gold, black rubber, portholes, all that good stuff that famously got the old-school watchmaking establishment in a huff.

Though there are many options in the Classic Fusion line-up my favourite are undoubtedly the 40mm Richard Orlinski collaborations with a breathtaking dial inspired by his brightly coloured geometric Pop-Art sculptures. Though 40mm and integrated in design, again on a bracelet the end-link is downward-oriented and slightly flexible, making this an excellent proposition for smaller wrists. Not to be put off by the Sellita-based interior, which is after all a solid movement in its own right, the alternating brushed and polished surfaces of it’s fabulous geometric bracelet that mirrors the dial are an absolute work of art, and if you can spring for it, my pick is the iced-out silver dial version.

Upshot

Whether you love it or hate it or (like me) are even beginning to love to love it, Hublot’s bold designs are not just for Jay Z. Compact wrists can absolutely rock a little bold, colourful and irreverent watch. Anyway, bucking the trend, saying no to the hate and recognising the impactful progress this brand is making within a pretty immutable industry might just be as powerful a statement as you could make.