Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 5: The best deep divers for slim wrists

Kylie Lloyd-Wyatt

If the moon was the frontier of the 1960s, then the deepest sea has been the frontier ever since – specifically the Mariana Trench in the Western Pacific Ocean. Last year, saw yet another challenge laid down, but this time not in an actual attempt to reach the bottom, rather in the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge and my, isn’t it a behemoth, so much so that it has me wondering whether this arena might be prohibitive for smaller wrists. So, let’s find out whether our wrists can get a ticket on the next experimental submersible heading south.

Why so big?

In order for a watch to withstand the pressure of almost 11,000m of water weighing down on it without popping a crystal and its cogs, it has to be built like the proverbial brick out-house. In watch terms this means big thick cases, thick sapphire and helium escape valves to ensure that the inside of the watch remains hermetically sealed against the extremes in pressure. The technological innovation needed to achieve such a feat is impressive, so it make sense that it attracts elite watchmakers to showcase their abilities. The two main players in this exclusive briny battle-ground are Rolex and Omega. Both watchmakers have the capital to undertake extreme and niche R&D and both compete at the top of the dive watch market with their Submariner, Deep Sea, Seamaster 300 and Planet Ocean collections. After all, making it to the bottom of the deep is not just an amazing feat of fortitude and bravery, it’s also genius marketing to add credibility, diver know-how and more than a dash of cool to the customer’s wrist.

Head to head

So, let’s look at who’s chalked up what in this deep sea battle before we figure out how small wrists can get some skin in the game. Though dive watches had gradually been accruing water resistance from around the 1930s onward, it wasn’t until 1960 that Rolex first hit the Mariana Trench. The watch that did it was the Rolex Deep Sea Special with it’s now iconic fish-eye crystal reaching 10,916m below sea level. Though only 42mm in diameter, it was a mammoth 36mm thick.

It wasn’t until James Cameron of film director fame took the plunge in 2012 that this record was challenged. In his frankly terrifying fluro green “vertical torpedo” submersible he journeyed alone down the Challenger Deep. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge made specially for the journey with its hulking 51mm diameter and 28.5mm thick case was strapped to the riggers. Though the Rolex and James surfaced in good working order, unfortunately the attempt fell short of the record by a whisker at 10,898m.

Rolling forward to 2019, Omega and the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep entered the fray by hopping on board explorer Victor Vescovo’s Five Deeps Expedition to journey to the deepest points in the five oceans outboard his submersible The Limiting Factor. Omega was clearly so keen to get a piece of that Mariana deep sea sludge that one of their watches was literally lodged at the bottom of the Challenger Deep and had to be dug out two days later. It resurfaced in working order with the record for the deepest dive at 10,928m below. This one might be tough for Rolex to beat.

Rolex strikes back

Rolex, not to be outdone by Omega snaffling the record, came out swinging at the end of 2022 with the release of their production Deepsea Challenge, a watch taking close inspiration from the one that accompanied James Cameron on his plunge. This watch is rated to a massive 11,000m below thanks to its nifty helium escape valve, 50mm diameter case, 9.5mm thick domed crystal and 23mm total thickness. These proportions are enough to make even the biggest wrist shiver but I dare say that there would be nary a wrist that could wear this with finesse – really finesse misses the point. A behemoth from the deep should be worn as such at sea level but for me, even with its RLX titanium case making for a comparatively lighter wear, I’m not sure I could really wear this on my 5 ½ inch wrist without it looking like a brick. Even if you could find one to try on, I think a wrist smaller than 7 inches would find this piece cumbersome. A NATO strap might make this more wearable if you’re super keen.

Omega brings an army

The Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep is perhaps a different story for small wrists and also comes in three dial colourways for your aesthetic convenience. This watch is rated to 6000m and like the Deepsea, heavily references the prototype that set the Trench record. 6000m, though less than the Deepsea, simply cuts down bulk to make this watch much more wearable for the consumer. With a case diameter of 45.5m, lug-to-lug of around 52mm and thickness of 18.1mm it has been designed with the big-wearing DNA of the Mariana Trench. There is no denying when trying it with a bracelet this watch really does dwarf my tiny wrist, but on a NATO I think it would wear surprisingly comfortably. The titanium manta-lug case is also tempting and a lighter case might assist the wearing experience, but with a 56mm lug-to-lug even with the manta configuration despite the NATO it might just be that bit too big. Truth, of course, will be in the try-on.

If neither of these watches meets the mark for your wearing preferences, the Rolex Deep Sea Dweller at 43mm rated to 1200m which Charlize Theron famously wore so well might suit if you can get one, but for me, the more extensive Omega Planet Ocean line-up brings the goods with pedigree. This collection takes strong design cues from the Ultra Deep and with its own 600m of water resistance, accredited diver status and fun colourways is a great option with serious diving chops. The 39.5mm case wears beautifully on my 5 ½ inch wrist, where the 43.5mm versions would suit wrists 6 inches and over. Either the bracelet or surprisingly supple rubber wear well.

A Doxa hail mary

If you prefer to look to smaller less expensive brands, in 2016 Doxa made their Sub 6000T, as the name suggests, a watch with 6000m of water resistance. Though this watch has been sadly discontinued Doxa have the pedigree with links to famous diver Jacques-Yves Cousteau and the Swiss Navy and clearly the know-how to make deep sea monsters. At present Doxa’s Sub 1500T is their most water-resistant offering and it’s iconic tonneau case with a height of only 47mm and various fun colourways makes this an excellent and more affordable alternative with deep sea cred and provenance that punches way above it’s weight.

Let’s dive

We all know that the utility of owning a watch that you can wear visiting the bottom of the deepest ocean is never going to be used as such. I mean, even James Cameron didn’t dare get out of his Fluro sub to have a look around. But this is not about functionality, it’s about the pursuit of excellence and wearing a slice of history and technology on your wrist. Though seemingly unapproachable, I hope you can now see that despite your wrist size, you too can get into the deep sea.