From Patek Philippe to Tudor – 10 of the best watches under 40mm (Part 1)

Zach Blass

Confession time: I do not have the largest wrists in the world. Last time I checked, my wrist circumference came in not far above six inches. That being said, I wear watches ranging from 32mm to 43mm in diameter because, as I have explained before, it really is more about lug-to-lug when it comes to a perfect fit. Nevertheless, more often than not, the lug-to-lug length I am looking for comes with references that measure in at 40mm or below. To better assist watch buyers like me who prefer more classically proportioned watches, I have put together a list of 10 of the best watches under 40mm in diameter listed in our NOW Buying Guide. Let’s get into it…

Kurono Mori

It is no secret I am a huge fan of the Kurono brand. The (now sold out) Kurono Mori pictured above is from my personal collection, a watch I truly love to wear. Aside from the gorgeous Japanese art-deco inspired design language and their approachable pricing, my favourite thing about Kurono watches are that none of the references have been produced over 38mm in diameter. The Mori is 37mm and boasts an exquisite polished finishing to its case and dial. The green tone is so rich ranging from a darker forest green to a brilliant emerald depending on the light. This is a watch that punches way above its price in my opinion, and if you manage to buy a Kurono watch upon its release I doubt you’ll be disappointed. Price: Approximately $1,790 USD after currency conversion

Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale

The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale would make a great first luxury watch for a budding collector looking to add a well known brand to their collection. The beige dial with simulated patina provides all the vintage vibes you would want, with the security and reliability of a modern build and movement. The smart casual 38.5mm stainless steel watch can be paired with endless combinations of wardrobes, the beige neutral tone making it ripe for varying strap combinations. The only kryptonite, if I had to nitpick, is its 30 metres of water resistance that prevents you from taking this watch safely to the beach – at least if you plan on jumping into the ocean. Price: $3050

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue

As someone who has owned this watch since it was made available for sale, I can assure you the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue is a stellar offering for the dollar. You’re basically getting a Rolex Submariner for less than half the price, with the only concessions being 316L vs 904L stainless steel, aluminum vs ceramic bezel, 200 metres vs. 300 metres of water resistance, COSC chronometer vs. Superlative Chronometer, and standard micro adjustment vs. glidelock. I won’t pretend the Submariner doesn’t have more to offer on paper, but considering the much lower price point these are easy compromises to make. In the trade-off you not only save money, but also get a more tapered and bevelled lug profile that better evokes vintage Wilsdorf divers, a more compact 39mm case, and a blue dial you would never see Rolex offer in stainless steel. Price: $5000

Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series

The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series packs a lot of value into its approachable price point, providing a sharp sporty 39.3mm cases with elegant hemp leaf patterned dials. The beauty here is that there is a flavour for everyone with five dial tones and two case tones to choose from. In standard stainless steel you have four different traditional Japanese colors to choose from: Shironeri, an unbleached silky white, Aitetsu, or indigo iron, Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees, and recently added to the collection Sumiiro, the color of India ink (black). In the rose-gold toned steel version it is appropriately paired with a Susutake dial, a brown-toned smoked bamboo. Considering each case is 100 metres water resistant, you can feel safe wearing this robust elegance even in water. Price: $1495

Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time ref. 7234G

When it comes to their sportier watches, Patek Philippe has recently upscaled the diameters of their references – but there are exceptions to the rule. For those who like more classically sized timepieces, this 37.5mm Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time 7234G is a great watch to look into. Unofficially many consider the 42mm version to be the “men’s” watch, while the 37.5mm version a “ladies” watch. I call bulls**t. Patek Phillipe aptly names this reference the mid-size, as that is really what it is. If you can stomach its retail price, this is a fabulous Patek Philippe to add to your collection, regardless of your gender. The Travel Time complication is great for jet setters, or in these times someone who needs to keep track of the time of the various regions they are having zoom calls with. The 7234G fits right into the sporty elegance category, leveraging a classically sized white gold Calatrava case with an upgraded 60 metres of water resistance. And who doesn’t want to stare at the exquisite finishing applied to the in-house caliber 324 S C FUS viewable via the exhibition caseback. Price: $67,170

Stay tuned for part two tomorrow!

Get your copy of the NOW Watching Buying Guide here