7 of the best alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay, because you can always get better value

Buffy Acacia

The Tudor Black Bay collection has got to be one of the most popular series of retro-styled watches ever. Considering the wealth of ‘50s and ‘60s designs Tudor has to pull from, plus its historic connection to Rolex, all of the Black Bay models have completely surpassed their original designation as affordable alternatives to a Submariner. That said, they’ve gone up in price themselves plenty. Whether you’re trying to save some money, or you just want something that isn’t the obvious choice, here are seven alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay.

Timex Harborside Coast

Getting in at the lower end of watchmaking is always a bit tricky, because quality can vary so much between manufacturers and price points. That’s why trusted brand names are important, because even if something does go wrong, you’ll at least have a decent warranty as backup. The Timex Harborside Coast is practically an homage to a vintage Rolex Submariner, down to the Mercedes-style hour hand, but the vivid crimson bezel and the gilt details bear a striking similarity to the old Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 7922R, or the current M7941A1A0RU-0001. The 43mm stainless steel case may be less refined than the Tudor equivalent, but its 100 metres of water resistance, steel bracelet, and reliable quartz movement does make it a solid tool watch. It’s even got a date magnifier on the mineral glass crystal. Price: US$119

Seiko 5 Sports SRPE53

The bezel-less look of the Tudor Black Bay 41 can be a bit of an acquired taste, but if you have acquired it, then the Seiko 5 Sports catalogue has got you covered. The case and dial have been directly inspired by the now-discontinued Seiko SKX diver, but the rotating bezel has been changed for a solid steel one. It offers a much more casual, and even slightly dressy take on the fan-favourite without resorting to risky DIY mods. The 40mm diameter fits well on all kinds of wrists thanks to the short 44.6mm lug-to-lug length, and the 11.5mm thickness isn’t bad at all for an automatic watch with a swimmable 100 metres of water resistance. The calibre 4R36 is visible through a Hardlex caseback, and provides 41 hours of power reserve beating at 21,600vph. Price: US$295

Lorier Neptune

Now in its fourth iteration, the Lorier Neptune was designed with the late 1950s in mind, right down to the gilt details, oversized crown, and tall domed crystal. The lumed bezel looks like Bakelite, but you don’t have to worry about it cracking as it’s actually a piece of acrylic, which should still give it plenty of character as it ages. And seeing as Lorier is a microbrand, the Neptune has been honed over its generations to suit fan preferences as closely as possible, which is one of the most appealing aspects of going micro. Powered by a Miyota 9000-series movement, you have a date or no-date option, housed in a 39mm steel case, water-resistant to 200 metres. Price: US$499

Rado Captain Cook 37mm

The Tudor Black Bay 54 was a welcome release for those with smaller wrists, but what about its alternatives? A reissue of a real vintage watch, the Rado Captain Cook in its 37mm form is one of the best options in heritage, looks, and value. Originally released in 1962, only around 8,000 models were produced in a 35.5mm case before it was discontinued in 1968 and faded into obscurity. The first reissue appeared in 2017, and it has since become Rado’s flagship dive watch with huge variety. You can still find some of those initial reissues called the Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook with a beautiful brown sunburst dial, otherwise newer 37mm models are available in green, blue, white, and various diamond-index models. You also get the benefit of an 80-hour movement, and that gorgeous sloped ceramic bezel. Price: US$2,250

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Date

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is one of the most popular vintage style divers for a reason. It perfectly captures the spirit of a 1960s skin diver, with impeccable quality and a respected brand name. It does suffer a 100-metre water resistance instead of the dive-ready 200 metres, but that will only be an issue for a minuscule proportion of enthusiasts. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200, which is now one of the most popular time-and-date calibers of modern Swiss watches thanks to its accuracy and reliability. The 40mm case is also wrist-friendly, and there are heaps of references which vary in both colours and materials. Price: US$2,700

Longines Spirit Flyback

In theory, there isn’t much in common between a chronograph with its roots in diving and racing, and a different chronograph with aviation ties, however the aesthetic links between the Tudor Black Bay Chrono and the Longines Spirit Flyback are undeniable. The symmetry of the twin-register layout is both easy to read and beautiful to look at, and the Longines’ case is water resistant to 100 metres even if it wasn’t designed for specifically for the water. Its Arabic numerals and baton hands hold a grand sense of sophistication for a sports watch, as does the black and gold colour scheme. Price: US$4,550

T+T Timeless Pick: Citizen Promaster Marine NY0120-52E

If your interest in the Tudor Black Bay stems from a desire for a capable, mechanical tool watch, you really don’t need to spend thousands of dollars. The Citizen Promaster Marine NY0120-52E also hits upon a brilliant vintage-inspired aesthetic with the specifications necessary to be a no-nonsense dive watch. It has 200 metres of water resistance, a detailed elapsed-time bezel with a luminous pip, and fulfils all of the ISO requirements to have “Diver’s” printed on the dial. The grey-black fumé is textured for an aged look, along with the off-white luminous indices. The automatic calibre 8204 provides a 40-hour power reserve ticking at 21,600vph, along with a day/date display. This reference doesn’t appear to be sold by Citizen anymore, but you can still easily pick one up for about US$250 from other retailers.