Daily meets dressy: 10 of the best watches with robust elegance
Zach BlassIf you want a solid, one-watch collection, or are looking to stretch your dollar with your next addition, my advice is to invest in a watch what I call “robust elegance”. By having a design that can work in more formal scenarios, built with specifications that stack up to daily wear, you’ll find that the watches below are all-purpose options that tick a lot of boxes. A watch that can transition in this way is crucial for most collectors who don’t have an unlimited budget, and therefore need a watch to be highly versatile.
A watch meets my criteria of robust elegance if it offers the characteristics of a sportier timepiece in a way that can also translate to more formal settings. In short, it’s a watch that ticks multiple boxes: mixed finishes; a clean, versatile aesthetic; 100 metres or more water-resistant; and not too complicated.
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium
As a robust elegance pick under US$1,000, the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium lives up to its name with its familiar take on a Datejust-like aesthetic. Its stainless steel case measures 40mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick, exhibits a handsome combination of mixed finishes that extend to the three-link Oyster-style bracelet, and boasts 100 metres of water-resistance – ample for daily wear. There is a wide array of sunburst dials on offer, and the watch utilises an 80-hour automatic movement with a silicon balance spring, beating the Datejust’s 3235 calibre by 10 hours! Price: starting at US$875, available from the T+T Shop
Longines Conquest
The Longines Conquest range has been further refined in recent years, offered in a versatile range of sizes (34mm, 38mm, and 40mm), and is offered with a rainbow of dial colours like green, pink, and champagne. Regardless of size, all the watches have 100 metres of water-resistance, and use an ETA 2892-based, 72-hour automatic movement with a silicon balance spring for better resistance against magnetism. You may be wondering what the advantages seeing the Tissot Gentleman come in at half the price, but other than the significant movement upgrade, the jump up in price definitely leads to a higher build quality. Price: starting at US$2,200 (on bracelet)
Omega Aqua Terra (30mm – 41.5mm)
If someone asked me what their first and only luxury Swiss watch should be, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra would be an instant nomination. The once identity-confused collection has been greatly revamped recently as a dressier cousin of the Seamaster Diver 300M. You can explore sizes ranging from 30mm (or 28mm if you consider quartz) up to 41.5mm, with sporty-slender cases and compact lug-to-lug lengths. For example, the Goldilocks 38mm option is 12.2mm thick and 45mm lug-to-lug. There is an abundance of teak-panelled or sunburst dials to dig into, but as plain as it may seem, my favourite are the black lacquer-dialled Aqua Terras. So crisp, so clean.
Inside are shock and magnetism-resistant METAS Co-Axial calibres that are some of the best-specced movements at this price point. I would argue the Aqua Terra is really Omega’s answer to the Rolex Datejust, and presents a cleaner and more compact alternative to their beloved dive watches. A fair, albeit fictional testament, to its robust elegance would the Aqua Terra’s numerous appearances in the James Bond franchise – and if it’s good enough for 007, it’s good enough for me. Price: starting at US$6,000 (on bracelet)
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGA211 Snowflake
Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design creates a high standard for the brand’s watches, setting out criteria that each piece must adhere to in order to make the grade. While some of you will be familiar with their “light and shadow” dynamics achieved by alternating surface finishing, the other half of the equation is a robust build. This is why watches from the Grand Seiko Heritage collection fit the bill. Designed to have an elegant aesthetic, but not compromising on a solid level of robustness. I mean, even many of Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio watches in platinum have 100-metre water-resistant cases.
The SBGA211 Snowflake, in my opinion, best exudes robust elegance through its High-Intensity Titanium case and bracelet that is lightweight on the wrist, but also resistant to scratching. A screw-down crown and depth rating of 100 metres ensures that moisture does not enter the case, a specification that buyers love to see. Its 9R65 Spring Drive calibre, with 72 hours of power reserve, is incredibly accurate, running within a second per day (or even better from personal experience), and is both anti-magnetic and resistant to shock.
In terms of its elegance, the crisp white dial of the Snowflake can literally pair with anything. While totally appropriate to wear casually, I think it’s fair to say it’s a perfect match for a crisp white dress shirt, too. To a degree, it competes with the aforementioned Aqua Terra and Datejust, but where it really stands out is the greater level of case finishing – a symphony of light and shadow through Zaratsu polishing that goes black in direct light, and rich satin brushes that brighten in equal circumstance. Price: US$6,900
Hermès Cut 36mm
Somewhat of an underdog on this list, but an irrefutable sleeper hit of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Hermès Cut earned favour for its stylish look, compact 36mm presence, and clear daily wearability with its 100-metre depth rating. Understated, but unmistakably Hermès, the Cut is driven by a Vaucher-made H192 movement with 50 hours of power reserve, and also features an interchangeable strap system that allows you to quickly pivot to a rubber strap should you wish to go from robust elegance to robust casual. Price: starting at US$7,450 (on bracelet)
Cartier Santos de Cartier Medium (and up!)
Like the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, previous generations of the Cartier Santos were not the most robust when it comes to exposure to water. It was a shame, really, because the versatile aesthetic was perfect for the boardroom during the week and brunch over the weekend. The iconic design of the Santos is unmistakable, timeless and and unchanged thanks to a winning formula. But Cartier really wowed enthusiasts with its latest Santos generation, introducing a greater degree of water-resistance and an all new quick-change system that allowed owners to seamlessly switch between a bracelet and strap.
Cartier’s quick-switch system stands out because it doesn’t just allow for a quick strap swap, but also integrates a quick-change system for the bracelet links that requires no tools. This means adjustment has never been easier, and you can quickly ensure the watch fits perfectly wherever you are, without a watchmaker. The upgrade to 100 metres of water resistance also meant the new Santos can enjoy more wrist time. Born with roots tied to aviation, the Santos has always had an adventurous side, but I think we can all agree that its latest incarnation is more robust than ever, while being every bit as elegant. Price: starting at US$7,500 (stainless steel, medium configuration)
Rolex Datejust 36mm (or larger)
The Rolex Datejust is the first watch that comes to mind when I think about robust elegance. Across the catalogue, the Oyster Perpetual framework has helped build the brand’s name with its rugged qualities that have proven themselves above and below water. Whether climbing Everest or journeying down to the bottom of the ocean, Oyster Perpetuals have met the occasion head-on, and lived to tell the extraordinary tales. Some models are hardier than others, but the Datejust excels above the rest by presenting a more elegant take on the sporty design.
Its 904L stainless steel case is highly resistant to shock and corrosion, with a Twinlock crown that ensures the watch can safely reach depths up to 100 metres. The Datejust shares some elements of its more robust brethren, like the movement of the Submariner Date, but is stripped down to create a more balanced look. Instead of a brushed case, the Datejust is entirely mirror-polished, with a more curvaceous profile that never really underwent a maxi-makeover.
To an extent, I would define the sporty and elegant balance as a 60-40 mix, and depending on the configuration, it leans in one direction a tad more than the other. For a sportier look, opt for the smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet. If you want something a touch more dressy, the fluted bezel with a Jubilee will be more your bag. With many dial options and case diameters, there is truly a flavour and size for everyone, and it would be hard to solve this equation incorrectly. Price: starting at US$7,750 (Datejust 36)
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S
The faceted, Art Deco aesthetic of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is irrefutably elegant, especially with its ultra-thin profile. It was a clear and concerted effort from the Roman jeweller of time to pivot consumers’ gazes away from the Nautilus and Royal Oak, but with a creation distinct from the dominant duo. Its design is unmistakably Bulgari, which deserves a lot of praise in a world where designs have become more and more homogeneous.
When it was first introduced, I wouldn’t say it completely ticked the boxes of robust elegance, but it was almost there. The 40mm titanium watch is only a mere 5.15mm thick, and its ultra-thin BVL 138 calibre was designed to maintain a high level of shock-resistance proportional to its size. Most ultra-thin calibres are vulnerable to shock due to their compact components, but Bulgari had the foresight to develop the calibre with a full balance bridge, increasing the movement’s potential tolerance of shock with greater stabilisation.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S in steel, however, ushered in a new era for the collection. “S” literally standing for sport, the design finally crossed the threshold. Bulgari participated in a minor trade-off with a major pay-off, upping the thickness to 6.4mm in order to increase its water-resistance to a much more sporty 100 metres, secured by a screw-down crown. Also introduced in the evolution was stainless steel, with mixed finishes for added elegance. The light play between brushed and polished surfaces, especially on a faceted design, is really quite a spectacle on the wrist. To be clear, I am by no means suggesting the Octo Finissimo is super tough, but it is much tougher than it looks, and enough for daily wear. Price: US$13,500
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 40mm
Driven by a finely decorated and thin in-house micro-rotor calibre, the 7.8mm-thick Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF unexpectedly delivers 100 metres of water-resistance with a screw-down crown. Watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak are often touted for their superb external case and bracelet finishing, and in my opinion, the Tonda PF is up there with the greats. It’s one of the reasons I picked up a Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante (though it has less water-resistance). The exquisite structure and finishing of the lugs make for such a fluid design, seamlessly kicking off the bracelet, giving it almost a jewellery cuff-like feel with the dial suspended within a bracelet. Speaking of the dial, it’s distilled to just the essentials – the hours and minutes, and the PF emblem at 12 o’clock, with a stunning grain d’orge hand-guilloché dial. Price: starting at US$25,700
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
Bold in execution and yet somehow adhering to Moser’s minimalist tendencies, the Streamliner had watch collectors salivating on debut. The Streamliner Centre Seconds was by no means too large at 40mm, so the Small Seconds that followed was not really about offering a more wearable design. Its most distinct deviation is its usage of a small seconds, and its incorporation of the amazing aqua blue enamel dial you cannot find on the Streamliner Centre Seconds. As Moser is known to do, there is no overt branding anywhere on the dial. There is strictly what you need to read the time, and nothing more to interrupt the gold-based and enamelled dial. Though largely brushed, the Streamliner has some sense of sparkle due to the mirror-polished edges within the links that appear only as they snake around your wrist. With 120 metres of water-resistance, the watch is driven by the in-house HMC 500, the manufacture’s first movement with a platinum micro-rotor. Whether you look at the front or the back, you’re spoilt for choice. Price: CHF 29,900