The 5 best monopusher chronographs, for when two pushers is one too many
Jamie WeissThese days, the vast majority of chronographs have two pushers: one for the stop/start function and one for the reset function, a design pioneered by Breitling in 1933 that has become the industry standard since. However, the first chronographs were all monopusher chronographs, meaning that the stop, start, and reset functions were all done via a single pusher – and in that order. These days, monopusher chronographs exist as a bit of an anachronistic oddity; a way for watchmakers to show off their mechanical prowess. I’ve assembled a selection of some of the most interesting monopusher watches on the market.
Studio Underd0g Series 03 Salm0n
Sushi, anyone? Studio Underd0g’s latest watch collection represents one of the most affordable monopusher chronographs on the market, as well as an extremely modern (and playful) take on the formula. Its minimalist design is contrasted by its whimsical dial finish: a light punk tachymeter track and chronograph minutes subdial framing a mottled grey centre that resembles salmon skin. It’s the sort of characteristically cheeky touch we’ve come to expect from the brand, but the Series 03 Salm0n is also one of its most horologically credible watches yet, thanks to its use of a manual-winding, monopusher variant of the popular Sellita SW510 movement. Price: US$2,000, exclusively in-store at the Time+Tide Shop
Farer Cobb III Monopusher GMT
Farer has developed a reputation for budget-friendly monopusher chronographs, but this model – which throws in another complication on top while remaining an exceptionally good value proposition – is a recipe for success. Available in two colour schemes, the Farer Monopusher GMT collection combines easy utility with a jet-setting attitude. I reckon this Cobb III variant is the pick of the two, thanks to its Heuer Skipper-esque vibes and funky subdial arrangement. It’s very preppy and very fun. It too uses a Sellita movement to keep costs down. Price: US$2,195, available from the Time+Tide Shop
Hermès H08 Monopusher Chronograph
A strikingly retro-futuristic timepiece with a distinct 70s vibe, the Hermès H08 Monopusher Chronograph is arguably the sportiest watch the French luxury Maison has ever produced – as well as one of the most enthusiast-targeted. Boasting a carbon fibre case topped with a titanium bezel contrasted by wild orange highlights, a Vaucher-produced movement beats within, giving this definitely-not-a-fashion-watch horological clout. Price: US$17,500
Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph LE100
Montblanc might not be the first name you think of when it comes to boundary-pushing, mono-pushing chronographs, but ever since the German brand took over Minerva in 2006, it’s benefitted from the latter’s long history of fine chronograph movements and expertise. This Unveiled model is a perfect example of what Montblanc’s Minerva relationship has achieved. While you’d need to look at the caseback for a view like this on most watches, the movement has been rearranged so that you can see all of its components from the dial side: it’s not skeletonised but rather totally flipped. Windows on the side of the watch’s case allow for even more of the movement to be exhbited. Price: US$50,000
Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir
The Tortue Monopoussoir of 1928 was Cartier’s first-ever chronograph. In 1999, Cartier brought it back, blessing it with the Calibre 045MC – a movement co-created by three now-legendary watchmakers, namely Denis Flageollet, Vianney Halter and François-Paul Journe – with this 90s model becoming a legend in its own right. In 2024, Cartier brought back the Tortue Monopoussoir once again, this time utilising an in-house movement and receiving a platinum case option for the first time. No matter the version, the Tortue Monopoussoir is undoubtedly one of the best and most-coveted monopusher chronograph watches on the market. Price: US$51,000 (rose gold), US$59,000 (platinum)