6 of the best grey dial watches highlighting an underrated colour choice
Borna BošnjakWhile so much focus understandably falls on brightly coloured dials for their inherent shock value, it’s also no surprise that the large portion of the purchasing public that will only buy a watch or two in their lifetime will likely gravitate towards grey, black, or white. You might not get the same, immediate wow factor from a grey dial as you might from a pink, but that certainly doesn’t mean that grey dials have to be boring or poorly executed – and the six watches on this list prove that.
Furlan Marri Mechaquartz Rosso Grigio ref. 1085-A
The 1940s “Tasti Tondi” that Furlan Marri leans on for inspiration of its Mechaquartz chronograph is a very solid base, so it’s no surprise they come out looking properly handsome. The Rosso Grigio ref. 1085-A incorporates a rare respiration scale, doing so with a multi-grey tone dial with a hint of red – though keep in mind, the pic above makes it look a touch more red than it actually is. With an affordable retail price and best-in-class case finish, it’s hard to look past. Price: CHF 555 (~US$620, exc. VAT), available from the T+T Shop
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Smoke
Nomos is known for its twist on the primary colours of Bauhaus, but the three autumnal Club Sport Neomatik models that releases together continue to be underrated for their excellent dials. The sunray-brushed main dial with the silver sub-dial just looks fantastic, and plays well into the minimalistic appeal that Nomos tends to go for. With an ultra-slim automatic movement in the back and whopping 200 metres of water resistance despite being only 8.5mm thick, it’s one of the most compelling dailies I could think of. Price: US$3,700
Tudor Black Bay 58 925
When Tudor released a dive watch with a case made in solid silver, many were sceptical about how the surface of the metal will tarnish over time, especially if used in salt water. As it just so happens, three years later, it seems to be doing just fine, though it’s certainly not the most popular model in the range. That is unfortunate, given that its warm taupe/grey dial and bezel insert might just be the best-looking colour in the Black Bay collection. Price: US$4,300
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41
You could slap any half-decent colour on top of the swirling iris texture of the Alpine Eagle’s dial, and you’d get a very decent result. The watch featured in both of our best blue dial and best green dial buying guides, and this silvery grey is now completing the trifecta. Thanks to the polished mid-links and bezel screws, the highly reflective portions of the dial are tied into the overall look even better. Price: US$14,800
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
Parmigiani Fleurier’s intricate grain d’orge hand-guilloché dials are a sight to behold. The tiny pattern almost disappears under certain light, especially on more muted colours like those of the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. Just like the Black Bay, Parmigiani Fleurier gave this dial a warmth that plays well with the singular golden highlight of the secondary minute hand and the ultra-subtle lustre of the fluted platinum bezel. Price: CHF 29,500 (~US$33,000)
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
From a brown-grey to a blue-grey, the dial of Lange’s titanium-cased Odysseus looks to match the coolness of the lightweight metal. Not only is the shade particularly attractive, but considering this is Lange we’re talking about, the dial is also finely finished with both azurage and graining, topped off by the polished highlights of the indices and handset. The day and date displays may be controversial, but they’re certainly keeping in spirit with the Lange design ethos, and if the difficulty of getting an Odysseus is anything to go by, I don’t think too many would complain about it. Price: US$56,500
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Grand Seiko SBGV245 “Grey Beast”
Perhaps you wouldn’t expect Grand Seiko to make a “best X dials” list with anything other than one of its stunning nature-inspired pieces, but the Grey Beast bucks that trend. Not only is this the perfect example of how excellent a sporty, quartz Grand Seiko an be, especially given the sick flat-brushed dial and bezel combination, but I also have a personal connection to it. This is the first Grand Seiko I truly fell in love with, and I remember scouring local boutiques and second-hand websites in search of one I could afford. For a while, I wasn’t keen on paying an inflated premium due to its discontinuation, but seeing that prices seem to have settled, it might be now or never. Price: ~US$3,500