Cartier was the unexpected saviour of the watch industry in 2025 – here’s our favourite 5 releases from the year

Pietro Pilla

Cartier has become a fan favourite in the last few years, notably climbing the rankings for most sold watches every year – indeed, when most of the big brands have recorded steady declines in profits over the last 12 months, Cartier continues to be the big winner of the watch industry, trending upwards while everyone else trends downwards (impressive for a brand where watches represent only one part of its business).

However, despite its continued popularity, it’s managed not to lose the support of the enthusiasts and all those who have a special eye for design. This has been possible thanks to the careful balance maintained between releases aimed at the general public and those intended for the most discerning collectors. So here you’ll find our favourites for the past year, from more mainstream choices to more personal and obscure ones.

Santos De Cartier Titanium

This was one of the big stories of the year, with Cartier getting far out of its comfort zone using titanium for the first time in a long time for a serially-produced watch. But it was more than just a change of material, as the new model solves a practical problem: the Santos, appreciated by many, has a reputation as a scratch magnet because of its fully polished bezel, which is a fact, but it also contributes to the more dressy look the watch aims for.

However, with the newly introduced microblasted finish on the bezel of this model (which also continues on the rest of the titanium case and bracelet), it is much harder to see the passing of time and the hairline scratches that usually come from a normal Santos wearing experience.

This was not the first attempt of the Maison to dress the Santos as a more modern and sportier timepiece; let’s not forget the black ADLC model with rubber from a few years ago. However, I think it’s the first time it has fully maintained the Cartier identity while adding a useful aspect to the original model. I’m very curious to see how it will do in the wild, and even more to see if there’s going to be a second release in the medium size. In my opinion, that will bring together even more the classic elegance of the brand with the utilitarian nature of the new material. Price: US$11,500

Tank Louis Cartier Automatic

While the trend of the past couple of years truly rewarded smaller and smaller sizes, this very model started to distance itself from that crowd. It’s not a new size in Cartier’s catalogue, but when this was released, the large size on the Tank Louis Carter was reserved for quartz movements. The use of an automatic movement and precious metal breathes a new meaning and look into this size, making it a suitable choice for all the people who wanted to own a classic Tank but couldn’t or wouldn’t pull off the smaller sizes without abandoning a mechanical movement.

But now I’m going to focus on what I think is the real change in these models: the dial. It’s not a new pattern, as we’ve seen countless guillochè dials on many models from the Maison, but it’s interpreted in a modern way that separates itself just enough from tradition to notice the difference, but not too much to lose contact with its origins. The tridimensional sunrays boldly play with the light, without needing to be too close to admire the two-tone effect it generates. It just adds more character to a model that already has plenty. Price: US$14,900

Tank Américaine Art Deco Platinum

It is always nice when brands look back into the archives, especially when they reinterpret something instead of straight-up copying what they did back then. And when a brand like Cartier does it, which has so many inspirations from the past at the tip of its fingers, it even makes it a bit more special. This was one of the rare standalone releases not connected to a specific event or anniversary, but I don’t think it got the attention it deserved. I’m a huge fan of Art Deco dials, and both the gold and the platinum editions perfectly captured the feeling of the era.

Out of the two, though, the platinum takes the crown by a mile. The two-tone salmon dial perfectly interacts with the white metal case and gets highlighted by the colour contrast. The red ruby on the crown then sets the tone for the burgundy prints on the dial, bringing the overall look together. And, despite the bold colours, together with the case being rather thick compared to other models, for me, this choice of tones and the vintage layout balance everything out for an exceptional result. Price: US$26,900

Tressage Two Tone

The Tressage collection was introduced just in 2023, but the braiding it takes inspiration from has been around for as long as mankind has. Initially, only offered in jewellery, it was last year’s Watches & Wonders that marked the introduction of the first watch models. At this point, you could ask the legitimate question if these are really watches or they belong more to the jewellery part of the business. But Cartier has always been the Watchmaker of Shapes, and this is the same concept pushed to the next level.

The way the time almost hides behind the enormous, braided lugs, it may seem like adding some hands was an afterthought at first, but I think it’s the exact opposite. This is the kind of watch that tells you the time if you need it, but otherwise is a show of the mastery of shapes of the Maison. It is the missing link between watchmaking, jewellery and sculpture, and it couldn’t have come from anyone else than Cartier. Price: US$75,500

Panthère de Cartier Lacquer

Last, but not least, it’s probably my favourite Cartier of recent years. As the years have passed, I have become increasingly more drawn to jewellery pieces, and this is the epitome of that. There is a sort of primordial attraction to it, as it almost feels as if it is not crafted by human hands but rather by nature itself. The way spessartites, diamonds and two shades of lacquer are layered with each other makes it look like a natural stone, showing all the geological eras responsible for its creation.

The way the handset is matched to the rose gold of the case and bracelet subconsciously takes the importance off the passing of time, as a memento to live in the moment. As logic doesn’t really apply to this timepiece, I hope I made you understand the feeling this watch gives me and why it’s so special in my eyes. I would consider it a watch as much as I would consider it art, and I will go as far as saying that there is a parallelism with the Impressionists for the way it doesn’t need to use defined shapes to convey that much beauty, just amorphic lines that speak louder than themselves. Price: On Application