6 of the best Breguet numeral watches, honouring the master’s name
Zach BlassBreguet signatures can be seen throughout watchmaking beyond the brand, indicative of why Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of (if not the) greatest watchmakers who ever lived. Any time watches from Cartier or Patek Philippe use these eponymous signatures, such as Breguet numerals or hands, the watches tend to be vastly more desirable and expensive due to collector interest. Today, we’re focusing the former, and below are six of the best Breguet numeral watches you can buy today.
Baltic MR Classic PVD Gold
The Baltic MR Classic (originally the MR01) already has major appeal, being a micro-rotor automatic that is classically sized at 36mm in diameter, 9.9mm thick, and 44mm lug-to-lug. The cherry on top, however, is Ettiene Malec’s wise choice to incorporate Breguet numerals into its design. Good thing is, you can have two cherries on top, the other being that this watch is well under US$1,000. My personal pick would be the PVD Gold Black, as it is timeless and elevated with its stable simulation of being a solid gold watch. Price: €545 (~US$570), available from the T+T Shop
Furlan Marri Grey Sector
Expectedly, alongside Baltic, Furlan Marri also offers an affordable watch that incorporates Breguet numerals. It’s more than twice the price of the Baltic, but you have a step up internally, with a 68-hour Swiss La Joux-Perret automatic movement. Furthermore, its case, 37.5mm in diameter, 10.5mm thick, and 46mm lug-to-lug, is handsomely vintage-inspired with its cleverly fabricated cow horn lugs that bring the intricate case to a lower price point as well. The only caveat here is that you don’t have a full set of Breguet numerals, but I like the twist of a numerals-meet-sector dial. Price: CHF 1,250 (~US$1,380), available from the T+T Shop
Longines Master Collection
Stepping up to the big box brands, Longines caught the eye of watch lovers with its Master Collection Small Seconds, which uses a brushed salmon dial with Breguet numerals engraved into its surface. The case dimensions place it as a middle ground between the Baltic MR Classic and Furlan Marri Grey Sector, measuring 38.5mm x 10.2mm x 44.9mm. Inside is the L893 calibre (ETA A31, i.e. 2892 base) with 72 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Price: US$2,500
Habring² Erwin
Pivoting back to smaller independents, Habring² out of Austria makes a watch that I love the look of, but would never buy. And my reason why is why many find it appealing. The Erwin is distinguished with a deadbeat seconds complication, which means that, despite being a mechanical watch, its central seconds hand ticks rather than sweeps thanks to the in-house A11S movement with 48 hours of power reserve. The stainless steel case, 38.5mm in diameter and 9mm thick, can be found with various dial configurations. One of them, notably, is a white lacquer with blue-printed Breguet numerals. In tandem with the blued hands, it is a smart-looking watch that will certainly be a conversation starter at a watch meet-up. Price: US$6,800
Breguet Classique 5177 5177BB/2Y/9V6
It would be criminal to talk best Breguet numeral watches and not include a Breguet. This watch may seem like an odd choice within the brand’s collection, executed with an enamel dial that has zero guilloché. But, I have seen this watch in the metal, and the blue enamel is stunning, the Breguet numeral set perfectly on the surface, and the colour-matched date window is executed flawlessly. The 18k white gold case is 38mm in diameter and 8.8mm thick and houses the finely decorated in-house 777Q movement with 55 hours of power reserve. And if you were missing having guilloché on the dial, you will be glad to find some on the winding rotor. Price: US$27,900
Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 1D-3
Disclaimer – the website says you can order this watch, but the small run will take years to deliver. That being said, the best things in life are worth waiting for. Japanese independent Naoya Hida & Co. has contentious offerings, as some are unable to get past the Cal. 3019SS using the going train of a Valjoux 7750 with its automatic and chronograph components removed. This is the first 18k yellow gold case with a hand-engraved decoration for the brand, executed by metal engraver Keisuke Kano. The Art Deco period fountain and wave-inspired design is engraved using a simple, yet powerful sculptural technique. The NH Type 1D-3 also introduced a friction-plated German silver dial, which is notably crafted by hand and requires not only a masterfully performed hand-engraved Breguet numeral set, but also has 60 yellow gold minute markers set into it. Even the Naoya Hida logo is hand-engraved. Only three pieces will be manufactured from 2024 to 2025, making this is a truly exclusive watch for those in the know. Price: US$56,700