6 wild watches that make the most of off the shelf movements

Buffy Acacia

One of the things that keeps mechanical watchmaking relevant in a smartphone world is the endless ingenuity of the human imagination. For every vintage-inspired dive watch, another brand is out there making something totally unique and exciting. Brands such as MB&F, H. Moser & Cie., and Vianney Halter consistently push the boundaries of what we can even consider to be a watch, but what are the chances that an average watch fan could purchase (or even hold one) of these extravagant watches? This is a question that microbrands can endeavour to solve, using limited budgets and resources to fuel their imaginations and create mind-boggling complications with just off-the-shelf movements.

DWISS M3W Wandering Hour

DWISS has been boundary-pushing for over a decade now, and there are few better ways to show its aptitude for watchmaking than to release a wandering hour complication built out of the humble Sellita SW200. You can already tell that there’s something special going on from the futuristic case design, which features a bezel with an odd angular shape and harsh chamfers near the integrated bracelet. The modified movement retains its 28,800vph beat rate and 38-hour power reserve, but now displays the time using a set of rotating discs that cooperate with a minute track at the top of the skeletonised dial. The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour sold out quickly in all of its variations when it first launched, although second-hand examples can still be found around the US$2,000 mark.

Mr Jones Number Cruncher

Mr Jones might not be a brand that takes itself too seriously, but its approach to watchmaking is no less inventive than the big high luxury names. Featuring a Godzilla-esque cartoon creature by artist Onorio D’Epiro, we see the monster joyously wandering through London and devouring time. The jump hour display sits between its fingers ready to be popped into the jaws of death, while the minutes can be seen in an X-ray display of its belly. It’s powered by the mechanical TY2709 movement from Seagull, offering a 21,600vph beat rate and a 42-hour power reserve. The case is 37mm in diameter with a 46.9mm lug-to-lug and a 10.8mm thickness, perfectly comfortable for any gender. Best of all, these highly creative watches from Mr Jones are always affordable, with this example priced at £295 (~US$375).

Eone Bradley

The Bradley watches by Eone were an instant sensation upon release, as they not only reinvented the way watch enthusiasts could interact with their timepieces, but also introduced a practical wristwatch option for those with visual impairments. Previous attempts at loudspeaker-based or tactile watches were either inconvenient or too fragile for daily use, so founder Hyungsoo Kim set about making a universally accessible watch that wasn’t just a novelty. The Bradley uses a regular Swiss Ronda quartz movement to drive two magnetised ball bearings around separate tracks: one around the case perimeter for the hour hand and one around the dial for the minutes. There are plenty of style and colour options too, with prices beginning at US$260. The latest version is the Switch Sunflower, which comes with an optional guilloché-style outer ring that’s absolutely gorgeous.

Vario Versa

The Vario Versa is a perfect example of the creativity available out there from microbrands, while remaining sophisticated and practical. It uses two ultra-slim quartz movements that can be set independently, allowing you to keep track of multiple time zones when you feel like flipping the case around. It’s a great example of the KISS rule (Keep It Simple, Stupid), as an actual two-sided movement would create far more problems than it’s worth. With the dual dials, showcase the gorgeous colourful dial during the day, before flipping to the quiet sophistication of monochrome at night, or vice versa. The 26mm x 39mm rectangular case is also highly versatile for any gender, and it’s budget-friendly at US$428 – a much more affordable prospect than a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or Cartier Tank Basculante.

Reservoir Hydrosphere Air Gauge

Taking a look at the dial of the Reservoir Hydrosphere Air Gauge, you’d have a hard time being convinced that the core of the movement is actually a standard ETA 2824 automatic movement. Reservoir has created a patented module comprised of 124 parts that transforms the display into a jump-hour dial with retrograde minutes and a power reserve, also integrating a rotating dive bezel. Reading the time is quite straightforward thanks to the single-hand display, but you’re also able to keep an eye on your oxygen supply like no other mechanical wristwatch. The bold 45mm case includes a helium escape valve and can reach a depth of 250 metres, more than ample for regular diving. The high number of custom parts is reflected in the price, however, coming to US$5,280.

Angles Chain of Time

Telling the time by using chain-driven hands around an ovular dial may sound like a monkey on a typewriter situation, but there’s an odd satisfaction that comes with the workings of an innovative dial. You can really sense the love that Angles has for industrial and mechanical aesthetics, and the Angles Chain of Time should definitely find its own niche among cyclists, too. The 24-hour dial may take some time to get used to, but the simple Arabic numerals laid around the oval dial sections should help reduce any potential complexity. The minutes hand stays at the bottom of the dial connected to the lower cog, while the hour hand traverses the dial attached to the chain itself. The movement is yet again based on a standard Sellita SW200, and the RRP is US$3,690.