9 of the best small watches, 35mm or under
Buffy AcaciaThe art of the small watch has definitely come to be appreciated more and more in recent years, with a focus not only on smaller diameters, but lug-to-lug measurements as an essential factor for a comfortable fit. That said, there still seems to be a fear that dipping below the 36mm mark automatically takes it out of a masculine category, and this has led to severe underrepresentation of great smaller watches. Even if your wrist isn’t smaller than average, sometimes it can be nice to just wear something that doesn’t fill up every available millimetre of skin.
Swatch Neon Hot Racer
Although the Swatch Neon Hot Racer is a fantastic and bombastic choice, it won’t be to everyone’s taste and it won’t be around forever. As such, you can treat this initial entry as a placeholder for any 34mm Swatch of your choice. They may be quartz-powered and cased in plastic, but there are few watches which can recreate the expressive power of a Swatch which resonates with you. Whether it’s plain black or rainbow, as a gift or for yourself, a Swatch will always scratch the itch. The 34mm case is lightweight and comfortable, so it will never be a hassle to accessorise. Price: US$120
Blok 33
Technically, this watch was designed for children. Unfortunately for the kids who may have been its intended audience, the tools devised to help them read an analogue clock ended up becoming a phenomenal bit of design that even looks great to us adults. Numerals are placed close to their starting blocks on the dial, as are the ones on the bezel that helps you time chunks of 5, 10, 15, and 30-minute segments. Powered by an ETA quartz movement and water resistant to 100m with a screw-down crown, it’s just as much a capable beater watch as it is an educational tool in fun colours. Although the second generation of the Blok 33 has seen some upgrades including lume, some of the bolder colours have been dropped. Price: US$189, available from the T+T Shop
Timex Marlin
You could go on forever about why the Timex Marlin is such a perfect watch, but the short of it is that it captures everything great about 1960s watch design in a truly affordable package. I’d even go as far as saying it’s one of the most successful vintage watch reissues for its attention to detail, and how much it feels like it’s time-travelled directly from a ‘60s department store. The hand-wound movement provides that instant connection with its mechanics, and despite some conjecture over its origins, the consensus on its reliability is mostly positive. Plus, Timex is a historic brand, and its budget-friendly status is just as important now as it was then. US$209
Marathon General Purpose Mechanical 34mm
Designed as a direct reproduction of field watches issued to the U.S. military throughout the 1980s, the Marathon GPM 34mm is perfect for those who are seeking a bulletproof, tactical vibe. Not only is the watch available with a variety of matte case finishes across the black, olive, and tan spectrums, but the dial also features H3 tritium gas tubes on the indices and hands for spectacular after-dark visibility. The black dial is laid out in typical field watch fashion, with both regular and 24-hour numerals, plus the H3 and radiation symbol are printed to denote its luminous qualities. Keeping prices accessible and performance reliable is the Seiko NH35 movement that powers the watch – a tried-and-tested fan favourite. Price: US$450
Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer
Hamilton’s catalogue is absolutely packed with iconic watches, whether they’ve adorned the wrists of Hollywood heroes or golden-age celebrities. So, it’s understandable that the Jazzmaster Performer series is overlooked because of its more classical and versatile attitude. Really, it’s those qualities that make it such an attractive watch, because you can use it as an accessory to your own personality rather than basing your personality on that of the watch. The sharp, brushed lugs embody a cheeky bit of 1960s sci-fi contouring without ever losing its sophisticated charm, and the wide range of dial colours ensures there’s something for everyone. Price: US$1,045, available from the Time+Tide Shop
Cartier Santos-Dumont
Honouring the first ever purpose-built pilot’s watch is the Cartier Santos, which may not be super sporty by today’s standards, yet still captures that spirit of adventure. The square case that flows gently into stubby lugs is only made more industrious by its highly polished square bezel, complete with exposed screws that give it a real technical edge. But while the case has a slight air of toughness, the Roman numerals on the silver sunburst square dial lend a delicateness that perfectly balances the watch’s needs. Consider the Cartier name printed above the pinion, and you’ve got a watch that can fit in any situation and with any outfit. The small size is just 27.5mm wide, but its square shape does make it wear a bit larger than that. Price: US$3,900
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34
It shouldn’t come as any surprise that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 features on this list, as the design is so universally perfect it works at any size. The Oyster case and bracelet are instantly recognisable as a quality product even by those who know nothing about watches, and the dial is simplistic, bold, and elegant. The sunburst finishing is consistently exquisite across multiple colour options including black, silver, blue, and pink, giving you the opportunity to match a tone to your personality. The calibre 2232 is an automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, complete with a silicon hairspring for magnetic resistance and improved performance. Price: US$5,800
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm
Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra has gone through a lot of evolutions since its introduction in 2002, but 20 years has definitely given Omega a lot of time to perfect the line’s unique blend of classy style with rugged performance. In a 34mm case water-resistant to 150 metres, the flowing curves of the Omega’s lugs are perfectly complemented by faceted, ovular hour markers and a symmetrical date window at 6 o’clock. The handset features one dauphine hour hand and one arrowhead minutes hand to further blend the sports and dress worlds, while a huge variety of gorgeous sunburst dial colours are available to fit into your collection, with the above black being released recently. In addition, there are also two-tone versions with Sedna Gold accents and a new take on the classic wave dial pattern. Price: US$6,600
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has been a staple of watchmaking since the 1930s, and the Reverso Tribute happens to adapt the style of the original 1931 model into a contemporary sphere. The dauphine hands and applied fencepost indices embody strong Art Deco qualities over a decadent sunburst dial, and the ability to flip the dial around is one of the greatest novelties of any watch. In a standard size of 24.4mm wide by 40.1mm tall, it maintains vintage appeal without sacrificing too much wrist presence. The 7.56mm thickness keeps it feeling elegant on the wrist too, thanks to the JLC in-house Calibre 822 with a manually-wound power reserve of 42 hours. Price: US$8,900
T+T Timeless Pick: Philippe Dufour Simplicity
There are some venerable icons on this list, but there is only one watch that could take the timeless pick spot, and Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity is more than deserving. The diminutive size came at a strange time, releasing in the year 2000 when the trend of the 47mm Panerai was in full swing. Nevertheless, the obsessive hand-finishing continued to garner fans, the Simplicity was discontinued in 2012, and is among the rarest and most desirable watches of the modern era. In the rare event a Simplicity does come up for auction, prices are in the hundreds of thousands of dollars, if not more, one recently selling on Loupe This for US$500,000.