5 of the best watches from the golden era of the 1950s

Borna Bošnjak

Other than the quartz crisis of the 1970s, one could argue that there was no more important and fruitful period for wristwatches than the 1950s. Much of this is a result of post-WWII optimism and technological advancement, giving rise to a decade that would spawn models that we think of as iconic today. And it wasn’t just one type of watch – the 1950s were an era of tool watch domination, accompanying intrepid adventurers to all corners of the Earth, culminating in an effort to leave it towards the end of the decade. Here are some of the best watches from the 1950s – and trust me, it was tough to pick just five.

Rolex Submariner ref. 6204

I’ll start with the most difficult pick, but at the same time perhaps the most ubiquitous, and that’s the first-ever Rolex Submariner. The reference 6204 is the harbinger of dive watch innovation, cementing a look that many still follow today, and powered by the Rolex A260 calibre. “Waterproof” to 100 metres, the 6204 is recognisable for its pencil (rather than Mercedes) handset, small, unguarded crown, and iconic dial layout – though at the time, it was sized at 37mm rather than the 40-41mm of modern models.

I also cannot not mention the other Rolex pieces of the 1950s, such as the Explorer created to commemorate the first ascent to the peak of Mt Everest, the GMT-Master created for Pan Am a few years later, and the Day-Date that became the watch of presidents.

Breitling Navitimer ref. 806

While divers went deeper and deeper underwater, the skies became an increasing area of interest, too. Breitling joined in on the fun early, designing a chronograph for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, and later launching as a commercial model. That was, of course, the Navitimer, more specifically the 806 which was the model’s first reference, powered by the Valjoux 72, and 40mm in diameter, . Curiously, these early models are not even stamped with the Breitling logo, instead featuring AOPA insignia alongside its slide rule bezel that made the watch the icon it is.

Universal Genève Polarouter ref. 20214 and ref. 20217

I should hope that for the majority of our readers, the inclusion of the UG Polarouter is not a surprise – especially in an article I wrote. While it isn’t as collectible (yet) as the other watches on this list, its raison d’être undeniably affords its inclusion. The ’50s were also an era during which passenger flights became increasingly common, meaning that pilots such as those employed by the Scandinavian Air Services needed instruments that could withstand the stronger magnetic fields experienced when flying across the North Pole. Hence, the Polarouter was born, though its name would change mere months after release to the more widely known Polerouter. Just as important, if not more, was the watch’s designer, who would go on to create steel sports watches that revolutionised the way we look at luxury. I’m talking about a 23-year-old Gérald Genta, of course.

Two references were available at launch. The 20217, like the example above, was the steel variant, while the 20214 was gold-capped. All featured the 138SS bumper automatic, along with the crosshair dials and dauphine handset.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the result of requirements of French Navy divers, most notably Bob Maloubier and Claude Riffaud of the combat diving corps. The Fifty Fathoms had all the features you’d expect from a modern diver, including a rotating bezel with a patented protection system that required it to be pressed down. Having said that, these early Fifty Fathoms models also famously sport copious amounts of radium that made them glow as well as they did in low-light conditions, much like other luminescent watches before the advent of tritium. To some collectors though, this only makes them all the more attractive – because what’s a few Sieverts between friends?

Omega Speedmaster ref. CK2915

We finish with the Omega Speedmaster, a watch I would argue has all the right accolades to be called the most significant model ever made. Don’t think I’m right? For starters, yes, it was the first watch worn on the Moon, but that came more than a decade after its 1957 launch. The CK2915 was the first chronograph with an external tachymeter bezel, powered by the Lemania-based Calibre 321 the variants of which are still used today. During a time when chronographs were not as widespread as they are today due to their complexity, meaning that a shock and water-resistant one that could genuinely be used as a tool was even less so.

Picking just a single Omega for this list was also a difficult task – remember, the Constellation launched in 1952 – but also thanks to Omega’s two other models from ’57. Those were, of course, the Seamaster reference 2913 that would go on to inform Seamaster design for years to come, as well as the Railmaster 2914, the quintessential engineer’s watch.