Is Baltic’s new stone dial Heures du Monde the best, most affordable worldtimer ever?
Tom AustinWhen does a microbrand stop being a microbrand and move into the upper echelons of mainstream watch brands? Well, to go into detail on that is a whole other story, but I think, importantly, we need to see significant diversification across catalogues, including exploring complications beyond the typical ones like chronographs, GMTs, and the like. Baltic is one such brand doing just that, and is on a trajectory to escape the microbrand atmosphere pretty soon. Intriguing releases like the new Heures du Monde may just be what Baltic needs to take it there.
Baltic has done a great job in recent years in solidifying itself as a leader in the niche corner of the microbrand market that specialises in contemporary watches with vintage French flair and sophistication. Its range of dive watches, field watches, and chronographs has matured and become a go-to whenever someone asks about value-driven, stylish and well-executed watches, but until now, the complications have been relatively conservative. The Heures du Monde is here to change that, introducing a worldtimer to the range that incorporates that Baltic DNA.
The case
Baltic has never been about being seen from across the room, and the Heures du Monde is no different. The 316L stainless steel case measures a reassuringly sensible 36mm in diameter, and 37mm at the bezel, and, with the domed crystal, is just 11.3mm thick. Without the crystal, the case measures around 9mm thick, and given that the lug-to-lug measurement is a hair under 45mm, the watch wears rather modestly indeed.
The case provides a very handy 100 metres of water resistance, and given that the bezel insert is made from brushed ceramic, alongside the brushed facets of the steel case, there’s a surprising level of tool-watch ability here, even if its looks are deceiving. Additionally, there are a few vintage-style details, such as the drilled lugs and screwed-down, engraved solid caseback, which lend the Heures du Mondes some character.
The dials
The new collection features labradorite, tiger eye and sodalite stone dials, and while I didn’t get to check out the tiger eye, the dark labradorite and blue sodalite were absolute gems to spend time with. The stones themselves are captivating, shifting and refracting in the light to keep surprising you with something new, but subtle enough not to grab too much attention.
The lumed, faceted sword hands sit centrally on the dial, clearly indicating the time thanks to legible hour markers. Things get a little more complicated, though, the further outwards you look, as the day and night 24-hour ring makes up the outer portion of the dial, split into two colours that match the dial with a nice degree of subtlety. This ring completes one-half rotation every 24 hours, with an arrow at 6 o’clock indicating the 24-hour time. Finally, the front display is finished off with 24 cities indicated on the 120-click rotating bezel, completing the world-timer complication. Simply rotate the bezel to align with your local city, and the 24-hour ring will indicate the time in those cities right now. Pretty cool.
The strap
Being a Baltic, there are several strap or bracelet options on offer. For the models pictured, the darker labradorite dial arrived with a grey Italian suede calf leather strap, while the sodalite dial arrived with a matching blue Italian calf leather strap. The quick-release spring bars mean these can be swapped out quickly for Baltic’s stunningly classic beads-of-rice bracelet or the flat-link bracelet option, both of which are crafted from stainless steel and feature polished and brushed details for a premium, luxurious look and feel.
The movement
Hiding behind a solid, screwed-down case back is the automatic-winding Soprod C125 GMT movement, which offers a 42-hour power reserve and has been modified to omit the date function. This modification includes removing the GMT hand, allowing the GMT ring to be adjusted independently of the rest of the movement, making it easy to set an alternate time zone alongside the world timer function. Plus, it means there are no phantom crown positions, too. Oh, and one final note about that case back: the first Heures du Monde series will be limited to just 200 pieces of each dial, and each case back will be individually numbered.
The verdict
The Baltic Heures du Monde is a stunning addition to the Baltic lineup, and one that makes perfect sense once you see it. It’s got bags of character, and just enough vintage charm to be considered vintage-inspired, while pulling together plenty of contemporary touches to ensure it remains on trend.
The stone dials are gorgeous and don’t detract from the watch’s functionality at all. In fact, when paired with the colour-matched GMT ring, they elevate the watch to something much more considered, rather than just a simple watch with a stone dial placed in just because they can. The addition of the world timer function truly makes the Heures du Monde the enthusiast’s Baltic, and it also helps edge the brand even closer to that status above other microbrands.
Baltic Heures du Monde pricing and availability
The Baltic Heueres du Monde is now available from the Time+Tide Studios in London, New York and Melbourne, and from the Time+Tide Shop, with the first series limited to 200 pieces per dial configuration. Price: €1,300 (leather strap), €1,360 (bracelet)
| Brand | Baltic |
| Model | Heures du Monde |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 11.3mm (T) x 45mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire double-domed crystal |
| Dial | Labradorite, tiger eye and sodalite |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | Italian calf leather strap, steel pin buckle Stainless steel beads-of-rice or flat link bracelet |
| Movement | Soprod C125 GMT, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, GMT, world timer function |
| Availability | Limited to 200 pieces of each dial |
| Price | €1,300 (leather strap) €1,360 (steel bracelet) |