James Robinson

Posts by James:

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver 27.01.2020

It's hip to be square: the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver video review

Editor's note: It's certainly refreshing to witness a timepiece that breaks the archetypal aesthetic tendencies of a fit-for-purpose dive watch. Thing is though, new and innovative divers don't come around too often … most watchmakers tend to play it pretty safe when it comes to making an amphibious timekeeping device. However, Bell & Ross certainly did buck the trend when they unveiled the BR 03-92 Diver a few years back. We were fortunate enough at the time to go HANDS-ON with the square divers watch, and you can watch the video review below. Enjoy.  Some people say that a leopard…

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27.01.2020

Why is this Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar so awesome?

Editor's note: Oftentimes, it seems as though the annual calendar complication is all too easily overlooked in the horological hierarchy of complications. GMTs, Chronographs – these are the most popular sorts of watches at the moment. But the annual calendar shouldn't be discounted … because it's wonderful. A while ago, we went HANDS-ON with Longines' Master Collection Annual Calendar, and these were our initial impressions:  There are few things I love more than a watch that surprises me. It's something that doesn't happen near enough for my liking, but it happened with this Longines. It was in the Longines booth at…

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Zenith watch releases 2019 26.01.2020

These were the most significant Zenith watches of 2019

Zenith really wowed the global watch community last year with some truly impressive new releases that encompassed beautiful heritage pieces, new case materials and horological innovations that had everyone talking. We'd like to mention all the models that dropped last year, but, to keep it short and sweet, here were the three most important Zenith watches of 2019. ZENITH DEFY INVENTOR Before you ask, Aeronith is not a knock-off cover band honouring Steve Tyler and co. It is a futuristic aluminium foam impregnated with a stabilising polymer. The result is a cratered, ultra-light material that is as visual stunning as…

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Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic Limited Edition SSE174J 25.01.2020

Novac Djokovic loves the Seiko Astron

Editor's note: With all the action of the Australian Open now well and truly underway, and following on from news that Seiko and tennis ace Novak Djokovic have just unveiled their latest limited edition timepiece, we thought we'd take another look at their 2019 collaborative special – the Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic Limited Edition SSE174J.  Tennis great Novak Djokovic and Japanese watch manufacturer Seiko began their (doubles) partnership at the beginning of 2014. Just a few months later, Djokovic regained his position as world number one – a ranking he then held for 28 months straight. Coincidence? Perhaps, but whether it's causation…

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23.01.2020

Survival of the fittest: Bear Grylls and Luminox have created some tough timepieces

Maverick survivalist, TV host and ex-British special forces soldier Bear Grylls has teamed up with Californian-based watchmaker Luminox to create the ultimate range of tough and ready timepieces. Judiciously called the Bear Grylls Survival Collection, there will be six watches in total to … bear Bear's name. In fact, each and every one of the timepiece's case backs will feature Grylls' name, logo, signature and his famed motto: "Never Give Up". The rugged watches have been designed and purpose-built from the outset, with Grylls' advice and expertise, to go anywhere and withstand the rigours of a life filled with adventure.…

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Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 review 22.01.2020

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch?

Unquestionably one of Grand Seiko's most surprising releases of 2019, the SBGK additions to the Elegance Collection had all the makings of a perfect dress watch. There was just one problem, however — if I'm being really finickity, the dial options that were made available upon release were perhaps slightly out of keeping with that of a quintessential dress watch. Someone in the Japanese watchmaker's design team clearly had the same feeling, because less than six months after its initial unveiling, we have this — the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007. I was borderline ecstatic when this watch was unveiled, and waited…

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22.01.2020

INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration

Continuing their creative collaborative partnership, luxury Japanese streetwear label Bape and Japanese watchmaker Seiko have just unveiled their latest limited edition creation … and we like it. Water resistant to 200 metres, this matt black marvel is, much like their first joint effort, sporting Bape's quintessential "ABC" camouflage, which has been masterfully applied to the dial, as only to be expected of Seiko. Unlike the previous watch, however, this new timepiece has ditched the vibrant camo green in favour of a much more brooding and low-key black and grey colour palette. The dial also features Lumibrite hour indices and handset,…

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21.01.2020

Fight Club: We pit Conor McGregor's watch collection against one another

As I'm sure most of you are aware, "The Notorious" Conor McGregor made a triumphant return to the UFC octagon last weekend, knocking out his opponent, seasoned veteran Donald Cerrone, within 40 seconds of the very first round. It was a resounding statement from the Irishman (those shoulder charges!) and it will no doubt again spark his rise to the very highest echelon of the mixed martial arts arena. While some were surprised by the sheer dominance and efficacy of the victory, anyone who follows McGregor on Instagram will know that the 31-year-old had been steadfast in his preparation for…

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20.01.2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3

This weekend, I wore my DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Kosta's Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Kosta's passion for timepieces is still very much in its infancy (only two years, to be precise), but in that time, his tastes and preferences for watches have evolved just about how you'd expect. It started off small, with a rather nice Hamilton, then came a Seiko Presage, and then a TAG Heuer. But it wasn't…

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19.01.2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: A beginner's guide to Grand Seiko

Editor's note: Ever wanted to know why Grand Seiko is so revered in the horological hemisphere? Well, this video perfectly sums up why the doyen of Japanese watchmaking is considered the crème de la crème on so many levels. So, if you've got the time, sit back and enjoy an explanation as to why Grand Seiko's movements, cases and dials are some of the best on the market, regardless of price.  For years, Grand Seiko was a very underground, for-those-in-the-know type brand; its visibility outside of Japan was limited, and its passionate supporters revelled in the arcana of cryptic reference…

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best Tissot watches 2019 19.01.2020

Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019

Tissot had a resolutely excellent end to the decade, releasing plenty of exciting new timepieces in 2019 that got the watch community talking. What's more, the Swiss watchmaker made a conscious effort to cater to both people just getting into watches, as well as the dyed-in-the-wool veterans. We won't cover every new timepiece Tissot unveiled in 2019, but these were the three most important: TISSOT CHRONO XL CLASSIC Extra-large is an apt description for this 45mm wide, 15mm thick stainless steel monster. The Tissot XL Classic emphasises size and presence rather than high-tech horology. Powered by a Swiss quartz chronograph…

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18.01.2020

Fun with fundamentals: A watch glossary for the budding enthusiast

Editor's note: For anyone that isn't already a watch enthusiast, understanding the multitude of watch-specific terminology can be a bit daunting. In fact, a friend of mine, who is the definition of the horologically uninitiated, recently read one of my articles and said it was akin to hieroglyphics. So, for their benefit, and for anyone else out there that needs to brush up on the basics of watches, we've created this easy to understand glossary. Enjoy.  Case The modular case of the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01. The case is the exterior of the watch. It can be made from…

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17.01.2020

These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019

As is the case with every other year in recent times, 2019 was a very, very good one for the inimitable Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Not only did we see the marque, which has been around since 1738, create their first ever Grande Seconde Chronograph, we also saw a great new addition to their Grande Seconde Skelet-One timepiece in a innovative material. Anyway, without wanting to give it all away, here are the three best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019: JAQUET DROZ GRANDE SECONDE CHRONOGRAPH Known as the master of automatons, Jaquet Droz lends its name to an elegant series…

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Halios Puck II review 17.01.2020

Cool as p**k: The dive watch that looks like a hockey puck

Editor's note: Making a unique and interesting timepiece is always a hard task, especially if you're a nascent watchmaker that doesn't have anywhere near as many runs on the board as the stalwarts of the industry. What's harder, still, is making an idiosyncratic timepiece that also needs to meet the demanding rigours of a fit-for-purpose dive watch. But that's exactly what independent Canadian microbrand Halios did when they unveiled the Puck II way back in 2017. We were fortunate enough to go hands-on with the overtly round dive watch upon its unveiling, and these were our initial impressions: Over the…

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17.01.2020

Two time zones and twice the fun: 5 of our favourite GMT watches

Few complications you'll find on a wristwatch can claim to have more real-world practicality than a wristwatch equipped with a GMT complication. The ability to track two different time zones simultaneously is invaluable for a great many people in a great many different professions. With all that in mind, we thought we'd share with you five of the best GMT watches you can buy right now: GRAND SEIKO SBGN009 Released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first quartz watch, the SBGN009's luscious blue dial has the kind of repeating pattern in the background that very few brands can pull…

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16.01.2020

OPINION: Why playing sport with your watch on is a daft idea

OK, let's get something out of the way first, before I posit my argument and before the keyboard warriors have a chance to pipe up — I am not suggesting that wearing a Fitbit, Garmin, Apple Watch or whatever other fitness accessory you choose to wear while playing sport is a bad idea. No, I'm talking about mechanical timepieces, actual watches that have movements that don't require software updates every fortnight, battery charges or a Bluetooth connection. Now, with that little disclaimer out of the way, let's start with a short story about what happened to my beloved Longines HydroConquest last…

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fantasy watch collection 16.01.2020

James' 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection

It is with a palpable sense of frustration that I must start my 2019 $20K fantasy watch collection with a pretty serious caveat — I had started writing this list before the now infamous Rolex price hike of 2020. As a result, I will be utilising the Big Crown's 2019 prices so as to keep within the, albeit fictional, budgetary constraints. Of course there are watches from other makes in my fantasy list but, thankfully, the other watches haven't had their RRPs jacked … yet. So, without further ado, here is my dream line-up of timepieces from the final year of…

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Dan Henry watch collection 16.01.2020

Do you need a Dan Henry in your collection?

A lot of things have been said about Dan Henry timepieces – both good and bad. But to understand the watchmaker, we first need to understand the man behind the brand. Dan Henry may well be one of the most prolific vintage watch collectors on the planet, and his personal hoard of timepieces stretches well past a thousand (it's actually closer to 1600). Among the cornucopia of watches in Henry's collection, you'll find everything from humble vintage Seikos to some of the rarest and most desirable vintage Rolex watches in existence. Henry credits his gargantuan assemblage of timepieces to two…

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great military-spec watches 15.01.2020

Marvellous mil-specs: 3 great military-spec watches

Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon — suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you're the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want attached to your wrist is a timepiece that not only looks the part, but can handle the rugged and demanding conditions. These three great military-spec watches perfectly meet that remit, and they're also some of our favourites in the genre: HAMILTON KHAKI PILOT PIONEER MECHANICAL…

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14.01.2020

OPINION: Diamonds are a man's best friend

Up until a month ago, if you'd asked me whether or not it was appropriate for a man to have diamonds adorning his timepiece, my response would've gone something like, "Only if he's a vapid member of the glitterati, or his vocation is spitting bars". Bedazzled, iced-out, frosty … whatever you want to call a wristwatch covered in cut-up pieces of highly pressurised carbon, I just couldn't get behind the the uber shiny aesthetic. You see, I like to think that watches represent utilitarian practicality — they're a tool that should tell the time, not tell everyone else around you how…

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14.01.2020

Shaken and stirred: 3 Omegas that got everyone talking in 2019

It may surprise many reading this, but two out of the three Omega watches that really got the collective horological community talking in 2019 weren't limited editions. In fact, the one limited edition watch that really struck a chord with enthusiasts, the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary, was just a gorgeous looking timepiece, regardless of whether or not it had a finite number of pieces made. Perhaps this signifies the future of Omega — a move away from limited edition timepieces in favour of aesthetically pleasing, technically impressive wristwatches. If the Swiss marque's latest two releases, the Seamaster Diver 300M 007…

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Rado Golden Horse blue dial 35mm 13.01.2020

HANDS-ON: The ladies Rado Golden Horse blue dial 35mm

These are strange times in the horological world … on the one hand, it honestly feels like a large portion of gents watches are regressing rather quickly into exceedingly vintage tendencies: aesthetically, dimensionally, mechanically — it just seems like there's been a complete about-face from the pursuit of the avant-garde. On the other hand, ladies watches have seemingly dodged the vintage vogue all together, and are instead carving a contemporary path forward that includes bright colours, big cases and better mechanical movements. This is evidenced rather perfectly with Rado's Golden Horse Ref.R33103203. It's a watch that's unequivocally made for the gentlewoman. However,…

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13.01.2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown

This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny's Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex's GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first unveiled at Baselworld 2018. There was just one problem with his desire for a "Pepsi" though … and I think we all know what it was. So, once it became apparent that his sugary sweet grail watch wasn't going to be an option, Danny went…

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Zenith A384 Revival Lupin The Third Edition 12.01.2020

Was this Zenith Manga cartoon homage the sleeper hit of 2019?

Lupin the Third, ever heard of it? We hadn't either … that is, until Zenith made this, the A384 Revival Lupin The Third Edition. Turns out, Lupin The Third, or Lupin III as it's otherwise known, is a Japanese manga cartoon created in 1967 by the doyen of the traditional Japanese art form, Monkey Punch. The cartoon follows the escapades of Arsène Lupin III, a master thief and grandson of fictional phantom thief Arsène Lupin. The manga cartoon was quickly adapted into an anime television series, which first aired in 1971 and subsequently catapulted the popular comic onto the international…

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5 best seiko 2019 12.01.2020

These were 5 of the best new Seiko watches of 2019

Where to begin with Seiko in 2019? The Japanese watchmaker has been on a veritable roll for quite some time now, but for the last year of the decade, they really delivered. Whether it be the new Prospex LX Line Diver taking home the prestigious award for best Diver's watch at GPHG 2019, a completely new Seiko 5 collection or the accomplished, refreshed Astron, Seiko really did introduce some amazing new timepieces, and here are five of the best: SEIKO SNR037 The Seiko SNR037 represents an exciting step for the brand, as it is the first time the Spring Drive…

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12.01.2020

This Longines Heritage 1945 oozes old school charm

Editor's note: Hot off the heels of their latest release with the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, we thought we'd take a look at another smash hit from Longines' Heritage collection – the Longines Heritage 1945. Few watches unveiled in the last couple of years have nailed the vintage aesthetic quite like the 1945, and for good reason. Whether it be the brushed copper convex dial, blued steel handset or mid-tan nubuck leather strap, this watch just oozes antiquated charm. A few years ago, we went hands-on with the mid-century stunner, and these were our initial impressions.  One of the highlights…

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11.01.2020

The Tudor 1926: a great daily timepiece for the classically inclined

Editor's note: One of Tudor's lesser-known model ranges, the 1926 is an admirable everyday watch with a number of great benefits. For a start, it's powered by a tried and true ETA movement, not one of Tudor's in-house calibres. Why is that a good thing? Well, for a start, it keeps costs down, as evidenced in the price of the watch. Another positive about ETA movements, as I'm sure you've probably heard countless times before, is that they are nigh on bulletproof and easy to service. The 1926 is also a handsome and classically styled watch, ensuring that it offers…

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3 best TAG Heuers 2019 11.01.2020

TAG Heuer's triple threat of 2019

It's safe to say that 2019 was a good year for TAG Heuer, with the Swiss watchmaker celebrating 50 years of their iconically square Monaco wristwatch with four striking limited editions. It wasn't just about the Monaco, however, as TAG also brought out some great new additions to their storied Carrera line-up as well as some elegant new ladies watches. We'd like to mention all the excellent new timepieces that were unveiled last year, but that would take quite some time. So, instead, here are our three favourite TAG Heuers of 2019: TAG HEUER MONACO 1989-1999 The third Monaco released…

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Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. L2.673.4.92.0 10.01.2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0

Every year there's a couple of timepieces that, for one reason or another, slip under the collective radar of us watch enthusiasts. There were more than a few examples in 2019: think the Citizen Eco-Drive Caliber 0100, Rado Golden Horse, Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic … the list goes on. But the watch that tends to sound out louder than any other is this — the Longines Master Collection Ref. L2.673.4.92.0. Quite how people aren't screaming about this timepiece from the rooftops is nothing short of baffling and, much to my shame, I too didn't really give it a second thought either.…

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10.01.2020

3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019

2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people's attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it's just great to see a stalwart of the industry like Tudor push the boundaries of design and innovation. Here are the three Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019: TUDOR BLACK BAY P01 One of the most interesting and exciting timepieces released during 2019 was the Tudor P01. While…

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09.01.2020

These were the 3 most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2019

eBay, the largest online auction website in the world and, rather notably, the first site in the world to support peer-to-peer transactions, is of course a complete leviathan. In 2019 alone, there was nigh on 200 million active users across the globe and more than 1.2 billion listings. So, as you can probably imagine, to make the top 20 most expensive items sold on the platform in 2019 … they've got to be pretty special. The usual suspects were all present and accounted for – Lamborghinis, Porsches … a lunch with American billionaire Warren Buffet(?) – but, perhaps rather surprisingly,…

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Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 08.01.2020

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946

2020 has barely begun and Longines has already come out swinging with this — the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. Representing the latest addition to the Swiss watchmaker's ever-popular Heritage Collection, the Classic Chronograph 1946 is a faithful re-creation of a timepiece Longines produced back in the '40s. The pared-back aesthetic of this homage piece is refreshing to say the least, with the simple opaline silver dial providing an arresting blank canvas, which Longines has adorned with two no-nonsense sub-dials, located at three and nine o'clock and displaying running seconds and a 30-minute counter, respectively. As is the way with…

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Most Colourful Watches 2019 08.01.2020

Technicolour treats: The most colourful watches of 2019

Last year saw the release of a great many brilliant and colourful timepieces that aren't shy of living on the brighter side of life. In particular, there were a fair few vibrant ladies watches that were unveiled, which are sure to liven up even the dullest of occasions. Here are some of the most colourful watches released in 2019: CASIO MT-G 20TH ANNIVERSARY B1000RB No list of the year's most noteworthy watches would be complete without the cascade of colour that is the Casio MT-G B1000RB. A veritable rainbow explosion, the B1000RB hit Baselworld like a ton of bricks, bowling…

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07.01.2020

Solar flair: Which Seiko Astron is right for you?

Never has a watch encapsulated the phrase "one watch to do it all" more than the Seiko Astron series. Here is a timepiece with an accuracy rating of ±15 seconds per month and a power reserve of no less than 6 months, that can also do the following: Automatically adjust the handset position alignment Host a day display and a day-date display with daylight saving time Dual-time function An "in-flight" function that pauses the watch's GPS signal reception An overcharge prevention function A perpetual calendar complication that is accurate to February 28, 2100 Power reserve complication A power-saving function A…

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Girard Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 07.01.2020

James' 5 favourite stories of 2019

2019 was a full-on year here at Time+Tide — we launched Australia's premier watch club, the second edition of our magazine, NOW Issue 2, became the official distributor for DOXA watches in Australia and New Zealand and launched our very own online store, the Time+Tide marketplace. We also, rather obviously, wrote a shedload of stories for what was a very important year in watchmaking. And now I've got to whittle down the 1000+ posts and give you my five favourites … so here they are: MY WEEK WITH: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, and how I got completely turned around to loving…

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Weekend watch spotting 06.01.2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR

Weekends in Melbourne can mean several things: overpriced brunches with mates after a boozy night out on the town, hikes up the Dandenong Ranges' unendingly popular "1000 steps", day trips to the Peninsula Hot Springs and, if you're a watch enthusiast, donning that special timepiece in your collection that wouldn't dare see the light of day between Monday and Friday. For this Saturday and Sunday, I wore my '66 Rolex GMT-Master ref.1675 "Pepsi" and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild:…

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best two-tone watches 2019 06.01.2020

Best of both worlds: 3 excellent two-tone watches released in 2019

Nothing says versatility and breadth of ability like a two-tone watch, and while the steel and gold aesthetic has been considered more than a touch dull over the last decade, the blended material timepiece well and truly made a comeback in 2019, with myriad watchmakers embracing the semi-formal aesthetic. With that in mind, we thought we'd take a look at three of our favourite examples of two-tone timepieces released last year. Here they are (in no particular order): ROLEX SEA-DWELLER The Sea-Dweller is a serious dive tool, but it's just as comfortable on the red carpet. The bi-colour version released…

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05.01.2020

Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019

One of the most polarising materials to make a return to prominence in watchmaking over the last couple of years has been bronze. Why does this ancient material cause so much conjecture when it's used as a timepiece's case material? Well, for a start, it can't come into direct contact with your skin for prolonged periods of time, because if it does, there's every possibility your left wrist will end up looking like Bruce Banner's when he gets angry. And, unlike steel, for example, a bronze watch will drastically change in appearance over the course of your ownership, as it…

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best gold watches 2019 04.01.2020

Top of the podium: 5 of 2019's best gold watches

Nothing says flex like a solid gold timepiece. Doesn't matter what sort of gold it is either — yellow, white, pink … if it's 18k, then chances are you've obtained a level of wrist-worn one-upmanship that few can ever hope to own. And 2019 was not shy at all about giving birth to some very, very hot examples of precious metal marvels from a number of different watchmakers. We'd love to mention all of them, but as the title of this story would suggest, the need for summation means that we must choose our five favourites … so here they are:…

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dress watches of 2019 01.01.2020

Under the cuff: Our 5 favourite dress watches of 2019

Staples, all good watch collections need to have staple pieces. A versatile daily beater, a rugged weekend warrior, a lauded grail watch and, of course, a great dress watch. But what are the characteristics of a great dress watch? Well, for a start it needs to be slim so it will fit under a cuff easily — there's no greater sin than wearing a monolithic timepiece that awkwardly sits atop the cuff of a shirt or suit jacket. Another requisite is a leather band, as very, very few dress watches can successfully pull off a matching metal bracelet. And finally,…

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watch photos from 2019 31.12.2019

LIST: James Robinson's favourite watch photos from 2019

It pains me so to admit this, but oftentimes a story is only as good as the photos that accompany it — especially when you're writing about something as intricate and nuanced as watches. A good snap of a timepiece is not only the glorious icing on a particularly wordy cake, it actually assists us scribes in helping to articulate different facets of a given wristwatch. In short, a good photo is crucial in this game. Luckily for us here at Time+Tide, our photographer is a chap named Jason … and he's a bloody wonderful photographer. And when Deputy-Editor Nick…

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best quartz watches of 2019 30.12.2019

Fully charged: 4 of the best quartz watches of 2019

Yes, the technology almost single-handedly destroyed the Swiss watch industry, but whether you want to admit it or not, quartz watches are brilliantly impressive, and they have been the main proponents in democratising timepieces as we know them today. Ever since the ingenious battery-powered Seiko Astron first burst onto the scene on December 25, 1969, the Japanese watchmaker has been at the forefront of the uber-accurate mechanisms. But, crucially, many watchmakers now employ the use of quartz power, and we thought we'd take a look at four of the best quartz watches of 2019. GRAND SEIKO SBGN009 Released to celebrate…

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3 best pilots watches 2019 30.12.2019

3 of our favourite pilot's watches that took flight in 2019

2019 has seen the rise of many, many trends in watchmaking — steel sports watches with integrated bracelets, bronze cases, limited editions … you get the drift. Another incredibly vogue tendency has been watch manufacturers introducing homage models or watches that aesthetically borrow heavily from vintage timepieces. And, unquestionably, the genre of watches that has most felt the effects of this yesteryear savoir faire is pilot's watches. Don't get us wrong, though, that's not a bad thing … not at all. In fact, this year has given birth to some of the most arresting examples of pilot's watches that we've seen…

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29.12.2019

James' top 5 favourite wristwatches of 2019

Many people who I respect in this industry have opined that 2019 hasn't been a particularly exciting or fruitful year for watch releases … and I couldn't disagree more. This, the final year of the decade, has given birth to an absolute plethora of new and innovative timepieces that have captured the imagination of many a horological enthusiast. And while I could wax lyrical for hours about said cornucopia of new releases, I've had to whittle down all of them and pick my five favourites. Here they are (in no particular order): DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary One of the…

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Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093 27.12.2019

HANDS-ON: The stunning Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093

Mastering the creation of a material that was first conceived more than 400 years ago while simultaneously bringing it into the 21st century is no mean feat. But that's exactly what Seiko has done with its silky smooth Presage Arita Porcelain Dial SPB093. Widely regarded as some of the nicest and most ornate on the planet, Arita porcelain hails from the small town of — as the name would suggest — Arita, which is located in the Nishimatsuura District of the Saga Prefecture, Japan. It is a gorgeous material to behold, and its esteem is most certainly founded. However, it is quite…

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27.12.2019

Put a smile on your dial: 5 of this year's best new dials

What's the single most important component that dictates whether a new watch will be lauded or loathed by enthusiasts? Personally, I think a timepiece's dial is the ultimate barometer of whether or not it's a success. It's what we look at most, and a beautiful dial has the ability to capture the imagination. There have been a bevy of wristwatches released in 2019 with gorgeous dials, and while we'd like to mention all of them, these five stood out as some of the best: ANORDAIN MODEL 2 TORR BLUE Scotland is not a location that immediately comes to mind when…

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26.12.2019

All wound up: 3 great manual winding watches released in 2019

There are several reasons why some motoring enthusiasts will always gravitate to an automobile with a manually operated transmission: more involvement, a greater sense of connection, more autonomy and control — the list goes on. And it's the same story with manually winding watches. Sure, an automatic movement is easier and more convenient, but there's a palpable old-school charm about a watch that needs to be wound by hand. In fact, for some it's a ritual that is paramount to the enjoyment of owning a timepiece. With that in mind, we thought we'd share with you three of our favourite manually wound…

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24.12.2019

VIDEO: The beautifully brown Seiko Presage SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1

There are myriad impressive things about Seiko's Presage collection. But if we had to single out one overriding thing that the Japanese watchmaker's dress watches do better than almost anyone else, rather predictably, it would be their dials. Pound for pound, the Presage dress watches and their rapturous range of dials represent amazing value for money. It's not just the design that marks these dials out as instant winners either, it's the finishing, intricacy and attention to detail. These two new examples, SRPD36J1 and SSA392J1, are no exception. The lustrous chocolate brown dials these watches possess are sumptuous, and as…

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biggest watches of 2019 24.12.2019

XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019

One of the biggest trends for timepieces of the last decade has been oversized case dimensions that stretch well into the 45mm plus category. And while the inclination for producing gargantuan wristwatches is starting to cool as tastes in the horological community change, this year has still spawned some absolute doozies for those that like a wristwatch that can be seen from the next postcode. Here are our three favourite biggest watches of 2019: PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE MARINA MILITARE CARBOTECH While Panerai watches have been long-held favourites of the diving community for their no-nonsense approach to robustness and legibility, the enormous…

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dive watches of 2019 23.12.2019

H2-Whoa: Our top 5 dive watches of 2019

This year has seen countless examples of new and exciting dive watches flood the already perpetually popular sub-genre. And while most new entrants into the amphibious watch market have been successes, some have done far better than others. With that in mind, we thought we'd share with you our favourite five dive watches of 2019. LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST FULL BLACK CERAMIC The HydroConquest range is a too-often overlooked corner of the Longines universe. But you sense that the collection has grander plans to expand with some hot additions in the last 12 months. Chief among them is the HydroConquest in black…

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3 top chronographs for under a grand 21.12.2019

Cheap thrills: 3 top chronographs for under a grand

Chronographs are, to this day, one of the most useful complications you can find on a wrist watch. They're just so practical —  whether you're timing your next run, daily commute or next lap time around the Phillip Island Grand Prix track, a chronograph has got you covered. Thing is, though, because of its complexity, the exceedingly useful complication normally commands a higher price point than your standard three-hander. However, there are exceptions to this rule, and we've found three admirable chronograph-equipped wristwatches for under $1000 AUD: DAN HENRY ALARM CHRONO 1972 A specialist in "derivation mash-ups", the Dan Henry…

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Rado Golden Horse 1957 19.12.2019

HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019

2019 has spawned a literal plethora of new watches for all us timekeeping enthusiasts out there in the horological ether to enjoy. And while not all of them have been unmitigated successes *cough, cough*, the best watches of the year, in my opinion, have been the rather large assortment of reissue and homage pieces. Chief among these new reinterpretations of classic watches is Rado's Golden Horse collection. First released in 1957, the Golden Horse represented a convincing interpretation of a go-anywhere, do-anything wristwatch that adhered to the fundamentals that make up a ubiquitous timepiece. Reintroduced in early 2019, the new…

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Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition SPB085 19.12.2019

Sublime Subdials: The Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition SPB085

Editor's note: Can you judge the success of a watch's overall aesthetic based purely on its subdials? If you could, then this Seiko Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition SPB085 would be an instant success. The calendar subdials of this watch, located at three and six o'clock, feature a gorgeous deep red tinge that is created through a process called the Byakudan-nuri technique. It makes for a very handsome look indeed, and it's no wonder why this watch sold out so quickly when it went on sale late last year.  Over the last few years, Seiko has made a habit of releasing limited…

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SBGY002 19.12.2019

VIDEO: The timelessly elegant Grand Seiko SBGY002

Created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko's prolific Spring Drive movement, SBGY002 is a limited edition dress watch for discerning fans of the Japanese watchmaker's signature snowflake dial. Hewn from solid 18k yellow gold, the case of the rarified timepiece is signature SBGY and, as a result, measures in at just 38.5mm and 10.2mm, ensuring that it will more than comfortably fit under even the tightest of cuffs. The dial is nothing short of mesmerising, with the famed textured snowflake aesthetic doing what it does best — leaving the wearer in complete awe regarding the level of intricacy…

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Rado Captain Cook Automatic ref. R32500315 18.12.2019

VIDEO: Size isn't everything with the Rado Captain Cook Automatic

Ever since its shock unveiling at Baselworld 2017, Rado's exciting range of Captain Cooks has represented a compelling proposition for anyone who's in the market for a solid, fit-for-purpose dive watch on a budget. However, most of the collection is on the larger size, measuring in at a fashionable and contemporary 42mm. Fans fond of the original Captain Cook, which was first unveiled in 1962, shouldn't fear however, because those who are after a smaller and more faithful reinterpretation of the Captain Cook need look no further than the limited edition ref. R32500315. Possessing the same exact dimensions as the…

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Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue 18.12.2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue

USP – the acronym for "unique selling point". A watchmaker's USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what's considered the best brands out there, they've all got it — they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it's Rolex and their storied robustness, A. Lange & Söhne and their prolific levels of movement finishing, or Patek Philippe and their ability to make a steel sports watch so damned hard to purchase. What these USPs translate to, most importantly, is sales – if a brand is considered to…

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Longines Avigation BigEye 17.12.2019

Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines' nicest pilot's watches?

Editor's note: Almost all reissues of vintage timepieces have an exciting story to tell – that's just the way it is, otherwise watchmakers wouldn't bother remaking. Thing is, though, when a watch manufacturer does decide to create an homage timepiece, they usually have the original in their possession. That was not the case when Longines was first shown the original version of their now famed Avigation BigEye. Seriously, the brand had no idea the watch existed — they didn't have a single example of it in their museum; they only found out because a keen Longines collector brought the watch…

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DOXA SUB 200 16.12.2019

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 "One of the Best Values of 2019"?

Creating a timepiece that needs to pay homage while simultaneously capturing the imagination of the horological community is no mean feat … in fact, it's fraught with failure. Time and time again, we've seen new watches based on vintage timepieces be unveiled, only to have them fall flat on their crystal-domed faces. Unveiled at this year's Baselworld, the DOXA SUB 200 aims to avoid the same fate as some of its counterparts. Based off the first-ever commercially available timepiece with a helium escape valve, which DOXA famously co-created with Rolex and released in 1967, the new SUB 200 has a…

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Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT "Special" 15.12.2019

Big and blue: the Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT "Special"

Editor's note: If you're after a sports watch with a GMT complication, the world is your oyster … err, well, you get what I mean. Almost every serious watchmaker on the planet makes a hardy, go-anywhere timepiece with a dual time zone function, and because of this, the subgenre has become somewhat homogenous – there just aren't that many timepieces out there that look markedly different. One watch that does break the mould, however, is the limited edition Grand Seiko Blue Ceramic Hi-Beat GMT "Special". Thanks to its inimitable dial, case construction and size – 46.4mm – this is a…

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Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update 14.12.2019

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Editor's note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there's a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. That's why this Nomos Tangente is so impressive, because the German marque has spent millions upon millions of euros to create their own calibre – DUW 6101. At the end of last year, we were lucky enough to go hands-on with this impressive timepiece and…

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12.12.2019

3 reasons why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 Platinum is still amazing

Much as it pains me to admit it, these days, haute horology is usually reserved for the rarified and uber-expensive micro-brands of the Swiss watchmaking world. It's not that the heavyweights of the industry have completely given up on the idea of innovation – far from it – but it does seem as though there's been a shift, that priorities have changed. A timepiece's movement was once the perennial final frontier for the majority of the watchmaking industry. In fact, throughout the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries there were countless new and innovative movements being spawned on a regular basis.…

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TAG Heuer Autavia 11.12.2019

We take a look at 5 seriously cool vintage TAG Heuer Autavias

One of the best things about TAG Heuer is the Swiss marque's remarkable history with motorsport — few other watchmakers, if any, have such a rich back catalogue of timekeeping devices purpose-built for the ultimate expression of man vs machine. And while many will immediately associate the angular Monaco as the most iconic wristwatch associated with motor racing, in fact, the real "racebred" timepiece that TAG made was the Autavia. An elision of the words "automotive" and "aviation", TAG produced Autavia timekeeping devices from as early as the 1930s, and since then, the namesake and the pursuits of myriad forms of…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 10.12.2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial

2019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn't matter if it's a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only way to go. And, as we discovered not too long ago, Baume & Mercier's attempt at this trend with the Clifton Baumatic is a particularly choice implementation of the popular aesthetic. But what happens if you're a massive fan of the svelte, stainless steel dress…

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Tag Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 10.12.2019

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02

Of the hundreds of thousands of wristwatches that have been created over the last century, how many are truly iconic? The answer: honestly, not many … not many at all. Candidly, there are probably fewer than 50 timepieces of the last 100 years that can claim to have had an impact on the zeitgeist of the horological industry. TAG Heuer's Monaco is one of those watches – it captured a time and place in history so resolutely (think Steve McQueen and Le Mans) that it continues to be lauded to this day. However, this icon is in the midst of…

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09.12.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Joseph's Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36

Everyone's first Rolex purchase is important — it's a milestone that, for most, carries with it a great amount of pride and sense of accomplishment. And for almost all of us out there lucky enough to have bought their inaugural timepiece from the legacy watchmaker, it isn't something that was entered into lightly; we have known for ages before the purchase which exact model we were going to buy. However, Joseph's first Rolex purchase was … somewhat anomalous, shall we say. Rolex, I guess, is a staple in every collector's stable. As for me, for as long as I can remember,…

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07.12.2019

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic

Few watches released in 2019 have had the ability to garner nothing but praise. There are, of course, certain timepieces that are highly revered — think the new Rolex GMT-Master II ref.126710BLNR, for example. But that watch brings with it a sizeable amount of polarity. No, for the entire horological community to get behind a new timepiece it's got to be special … and the new Longines Heritage Classic L2.828.4.73.2 is exactly that: special. Allow me to explain. Part of this raconteur's role is to scour the interwebs and plethora of social media networks, and, to my dismay, sometimes read the…

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Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech 07.12.2019

This Panerai Submersible BMG-Tech is a killer summer watch

Editor's note: A summer watch can be many different things, however, there is one prerequisite – it needs to be water resistant. I'm not talking about a mere 3-ATM either … a timepiece to wear December through February has got to be able to hang poolside or 100 metres below the deep blue. Panerai's Submersible BMG-Tech is more than capable of these requirements, and it also shows off the Italian marque's innovative new material "BMG-Tech". Late last year, we went hands-on with the avant-garde amphibious timepiece, and these were our initial impressions. At first glance, you could be forgiven for…

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07.12.2019

Why the Longines Heritage Collection is going from strength to strength

Owning a watch that has been given to you as a gift has a sentimental element that can get even more meaningful over time. Anyone who has been fortunate enough to have received a watch as a gift, a milestone or something to mark an achievement, will know what I'm on about – it's an emotional thing, it becomes more than 'just a watch'. …if you're contemplating buying a watch for someone you care about, you should abide by one simple rule: keep it classic. But not all watch gifts are equal. What can make the experience slightly less nostalgic as…

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Are Bremont the new kings of mil-spec watches? 06.12.2019

Are Bremont the new kings of mil-spec watches?

Editor's note: In a recent discussion with a respected watchmaker who knows a thing or two about Rolex, I posited the question, "So what's your next timepiece going to be?" Without a moment's hesitation, he replied: "Bremont, definitely a Bremont." When I asked why, he said that increasingly, he was observing more similarities between Bremont and, if you can believe it, Rolex. He went on to explain that a huge part of Rolex's history was providing military-spec watches for armed forces across the globe, and while the Swiss marque had ceased doing so, Bremont had more than carried the torch…

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Baume & Mercier Classima 06.12.2019

When classicism meets contemporary: The Baume & Mercier Classima

Here's a question for you: how do you modernise something as traditional as a time-only dress watch? Do you utilise new-age materials? Or maybe blow-out the proportions of the timepiece? It's a conundrum that Baume & Mercier faced with their understated range of Baume & Mercier Classima wristwatches. Their solution was to give owners the chance to physically see their mechanical watch in action, by skeletonising a portion of the dial and exposing the beating heart of its movement, the escapement. It's a novel idea that gives the Classima a thoroughly modern aesthetic, and, perhaps more importantly, wearers a greater…

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05.12.2019

3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions

One of the greatest things about Longines is their history — the Swiss marque was established almost two centuries ago, way back in 1832. This heritage gives the brand an advantage, and it gives the Longines wearer an edge, too. The depth and versatility of Longines timepieces is utterly expansive – and the back catalogue is a constant source of rich pickings, at prices available to the not-just-rich. This history, which has been focused on large-scale production of superior timepieces, hints at why Longines watches are lauded for always representing a value proposition — 187 years at the pointy end of the…

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Stan Smith Signature Watch 04.12.2019

INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac

Much as it shames me to admit it, until writing about this watch, I rather naively thought that Stan Smith was a shoe designer … how very Gen Y of me. As it turns out, Smith is rather more than a proponent of Adidas's enduringly vogue white sneaker – he was a legend of the tennis court in the 1970s, with 100 professional tournament wins credited to his name. To celebrate this illustrious career, watchmaker Maurice de Mauriac has teamed up with the superstar of the sport to release this – the Stan Smith Signature Watch. Limited to just 100…

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Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire 04.12.2019

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire

Unlike Ferrari's frankly dismal efforts in Formula 1 this year, 2019 has been a great 12 months for the Italian supercar manufacturer in terms of their commercial and creative partnership with watchmaking vanguards, Hublot. The curvaceous and inimitable Classic Fusion Ferrari GT was not only one of my personal favourites from the provocative Swiss marque, it was one of my favourite watches of 2019. Period. However, the other big standout wristwatch to bear the famed Prancing Horse badge this year – the Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire – is by no means something forgettable. On the contrary,…

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03.12.2019

Are in-house movements actually important?

Editor's note: As the watch buying and horological community becomes more astute by the day, thanks in no small part to social media, in-house movements seem almost paramount to a brand's sales success. But, as Sandra Lane posited earlier this year, do they actually matter at all? And does the phrase "in-house" really mean manufactured in-house? Personally, having been fortunate enough to own quite a few timepieces over the years, I can say that, anecdotally, the most reliable watches I have worn possessed movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita. It's a horological point of contention that I think…

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Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm 02.12.2019

Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm

It has been a big year for Panerai's distinctive Submersible range, with the new and now standalone collection featuring heavily at the watchmaker's 2019 SIHH showing. The amphibious timepieces, while varied, have been a great opportunity for Panerai to show off some of their newest innovative materials. Case in point is this Submersible, the BMG-TECH 47mm PAM00799. The monolithic timepiece is somewhat of a flag-bearer, not only for the Submersible collection but also two of the Italian marque's latest and greatest resources – BMG-TECH and Carbotech. BMG-TECH is a complex amalgamation of things like copper, titanium, zirconium, nickel and aluminium,…

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3 Longines tool watches 02.12.2019

Santa's little helpers: 3 Longines tool watches for the festive season

Believe it or not, somehow there are just 23 short days left until Christmas, and if you haven't bought your presents yet … you're in a bit of strife. Thankfully, however, if that special someone in your life is fond of a timepiece or two, then Longines has got you covered with a great many different tool watches for any occasion. With this in mind, we thought we'd take a close look at three distinct wristwatches that each serve a handy and unique purpose, and maybe one of them will be right for you. Longines Legend Diver L3.774.2.50.9 We're very…

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Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 Review 02.12.2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467

When you're buying a new car, there's usually some key criteria that dictate whether or not said automobile will make the cut. You know the sort of things we're talking about – fuel economy, safety rating, 0-100km/h times … that sort of stuff. Oh, and of course, price. But is this same buying style employed when you want to take the plunge on your next watch? Or do you just go off aesthetics and which brand made the watch? If we did buy our watches like we buy our cars, then the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic ref. 10467 would…

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When NASA tested the OMEGA Speedmaster 01.12.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster

There is a plethora of watches out there with an equally large amount of claims. First watch with a date complication. First watch with a GMT complication. First waterproof watch. However, of all the watches on sale today, the coolest claim surely has to be: "The first watch worn on the moon." I'm sure that you will already know a fair chunk of Omega's history with NASA and the fabled Speedmaster. But what you may not know is that the Speedmaster was actually one of four watches vying for NASA's business. As former NASA engineer Jim Ragan describes in this…

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato in black ceramic 30.11.2019

Old dog, new tricks: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato in black ceramic

Editor's note: You know what's really refreshing to see? A watchmaker take a timepiece that was first released 40+ years ago, grab it by its … lugs (?) and bring it into the 21st century. That's exactly what Girard-Perregaux did when they unveiled the Laureato in black ceramic. Here is a timepiece that, for the most part, retains almost all the styling cues of the original Laureato, but thanks to material innovation, is reborn in this resolutely contemporary design. And, to Girard-Perregaux's credit, they nailed the execution. It isn't always easy to master the process of modernising something antiquated, but…

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Rado Captain Cook Automatic 29.11.2019

Which Rado Captain Cook Automatic is right for you?

Rado's Captain Cook Automatic dive watch collection is downright impressive for anyone in the market for a fit-for-purpose dive watch on a budget. What's more, it's got a great amount of heritage — Rado has actually used the Captain Cook moniker since 1962. But these modern iterations aren't resting on the laurels of their forefathers, they're packing an aesthetic and technical blow that is hard to beat in the price bracket. For example, all of the watches feature glossy, vibrant dials that do a wonderful job of catching the light, offering wearers a charismatic, almost multifaceted personality. And the inwardly concave…

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H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue 29.11.2019

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue

The watchmaking mavericks at H. Moser & Cie. must be working overtime at their headquarters in Schaffhausen, because they keep dropping hit after hit in 2019. Their most recent creation is this — the H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue. Taking inspiration from both the horological creations of Moser's founder, Heinrich Moser, and converted pocket watches from the early 20th century, the new Heritage Centre Seconds offers a distinctly inimitable aesthetic that seeks to seamlessly blend old-world charm with contemporary watchmaking techniques and technologies. The highly polished 42mm stainless steel case, for example, is shaped like a…

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Tudor Black Bay "Smiley" 28.11.2019

Is this Tudor Black Bay "Smiley" the next big collector's watch?

Editor's note: A perennially common question in the horological hemisphere is, "What is the next BIG future collectible timepiece?" It's a pretty loaded question, and usually one answered with, rather obviously, nothing more than conjecture and anecdotal hypothesis. But, if we're being honest, the best indicator of the "next big thing" is when there is a constant murmur in the wristwatch community about the same watch, a constant simmering of whispers that keeps on throwing up one model. That model is this, the ETA-powered Tudor Black Bay "Smiley". Whether it's the simpler ETA 2824-2 movement, the slimmer case, "Rose of…

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Omega Seamaster Professional 300m 27.11.2019

What Sealed The Deal – Andreas' Omega Seamaster Professional 300M

Has any one watch had more of an immediate effect on its audience than the Omega Seamasters featured in James Bond films? Seriously … almost every single time we talk to anyone about their SMP, invariably 007 is hurled into the equation. It's got to be one of the smartest pieces of marketing since, well, since Omega handed out their Speedmaster to Neil Armstrong, Michael Collins and Buzz Aldrin. Anyway, at one point or another, quite a few of the people reading this will have owned an SMP – they are just that iconic. Fewer people, however, have offloaded their…

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Baume and Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 27.11.2019

VIDEO: Is this Baume & Mercier the best dress watch you can buy for under $5K?

Anyone looking for a capable and exceedingly handsome dress watch on a relatively low budget needs to sit up and pay attention now, because this Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic is unquestionably one of the bargains of the moment. Here is a wristwatch that retails for a mere $4600 AUD, and yet it's powered by a movement that offers a whopping five days of power reserve, is chronometer certified and made completely in-house by Baume & Mercier … for less than five grand. And if that weren't enough, it's all wrapped up in a handsome and elegant dress watch with…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 26.11.2019

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date – The thinking man's steel sports watch

Editor's note: Jaeger-LeCoultre is widely regarded as one of the best watchmakers on the planet … and for good reason. The Swiss outfit has been responsible for more advancements and complications in the mechanical watchmaking world than pretty much any other manufacturer. And what's more, JLC has made movements for some of the top marques in the horological industry — name a Swiss watchmaker and chances are JLC has made a movement for them. There's a reason they're called "The watchmaker's watchmaker". Most of the Jaeger-LeCoultre collection is made up of svelte, sophisticated dress watches, so it's pretty easy to…

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Steve McQueen watches 26.11.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Steve McQueen and the watches he wore

Here's a question for you: Who is the greatest male style icon of the 20th century? Is it Paul Newman? No. Is it Elvis Presley? Absolutely not. Is it James Dean? No, but getting closer. OK, as the title rather obviously suggests, the greatest male style icon of the 20th century was, by some margin, Steve McQueen. Here was a man who set the tone for what was considered cool in just about every facet of what men cared about, whether it be what cars to drive, what clothes to wear and, most importantly, what watches to have attached to…

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Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm Bernina Grey dial 26.11.2019

HANDS-ON: Chopard's svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial

This has unquestionably been the year of the contentious steel sports watch, with just about every watchmaker and their Bernese entering the fray in what has to be the most hotly contested genre of timepieces in the current watch market. Chief among these new steely provocateurs is Chopard's Alpine Eagle. We've been fortunate enough to spend a fair amount of time with the spiritual birth child of the Chopard St. Moritz and Time+Tide founder, Andrew McUtchen, even got the opportunity to spend a week with the dazzling timepiece on his wrist. That weeklong experience was with the 41mm steel Aletsch…

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Jay-Z Rolex Daytona 25.11.2019

#JayDay: Jay-Z just used a bunch of solid gold Rolex Daytonas as VIP invitations

We've all heard of a wrist flex, but what about an invitation flex … is that a thing? Well, if it wasn't before, it is now, because hip hop heavyweight, music producer and entrepreneur Jay-Z has gone and sent out Rolex's eponymous Daytona as VIP invitation gifts to his inaugural Shawn Carter Foundation Gala. In case you were wondering, the Rolex Daytona in question was the solid 18k Everose gold example with the black and pink dial, ref. 116505. Just to clarify … this pink gold Daytona has a recommended retail price in Australia of $49,750. What on earth! And…

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Hublot Classic Fusion 24.11.2019

Keeping it classic: 3 of the best Hublot Classic Fusions

It's fair to say that Hublot is mostly known for their iconic range of Big Bang timepieces. And that's completely understandable, as the Big Bang is the brainchild of the Swiss watchmaking doyen, Jean-Claude Biver. Furthermore, the timepiece itself is credited with saving Hublot from an uncertain future when it was first released in 2005. However, for those looking for something that is perhaps a little more left field from the disruptive Swiss marque, Hublot's range of Classic Fusion timepieces represent a compelling blend of svelte sophistication and signature innovative design. Here are three of our favourites: Hublot Classic Fusion…

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Rolex "Tiffany" GMT-Master 23.11.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Antiques Roadshow and the Rolex "Tiffany" GMT-Master

Let's be honest, Antiques Roadshow isn't always the most enthralling of television shows – it's not going to goad you into teetering on the edge of your seat, hanging off every last word of the inevitably gingham-clad, stodgy presenter. However, sporadically, there are some complete gems that come up on the show for peeps like you and me who adore all things watches. A classic example of this infrequent brilliance is the time that a chap from the States brought in his 1963 Rolex GMT-Master "Pepsi". It's not just any old Pepsi either – this steel professional timepiece has got…

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22.11.2019

Taking another look at the Rado Tradition 1965

Editor's note: Well, this is something that you're probably not going to see every day, not least because, apart from the Rado Tradition 1965 presenting a very eccentric aesthetic, the rectangular wonder was limited to just 1965 examples, in both its medium and XL iterations. It's got to be one of the more quirky releases of 2019, and what's really ironic about this watch is that it shouldn't work … but it does. On the wrist, there's a funky je ne sais quoi persona, a devil-may-care attitude that just feels resolutely right. At the start of the year, we were…

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21.11.2019

Hublot has its sights firmly set on your feet

Horological disruptors Hublot are hosting an exhibition right now at the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC) in Lausanne, Switzerland … but it's not for watches. No, the Swiss watchmaker is hosting what is said to be one of the best sneaker exhibitions ever assembled. And while this may sound slightly off-brand for a watchmaker, it's not the first time that Hublot has dipped its toes in the vogue sneaker industry. Back in 2016, Hublot collaborated with luxury footwear maker Lavati to create the Lavati x Hublot 'All Black', a high top leather-clad sneaker with some serious clout.…

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20.11.2019

Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400

Editor's note: With so much attention and speculation surrounding the all-steel variants of Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak 15400 and now 15500, it's easy to forget that the Holy Trinity watchmaker also offers their most prized timepiece in two-tone steel and 18k Pink Gold. And while it's easy to comprehend why the stainless steel variants are so highly revered, there's something of an old-world charm about the way the two-tone iteration goes about its business — it's antiquated … but in a good way. A couple of years ago, we were lucky enough to slide one of these mixed metal marvels onto…

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3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bang 20.11.2019

3 Hublot Spirit of Big Bangs for 3 different occasions

Hublot's Spirit of Big Bang collection is unquestionably one of the most varied and nuanced in the Swiss watchmaker's catalogue. The quintessentially tonneau-shaped timepiece, which has only been around since 2014, has spawned quite a few different iterations, in a number of different sizes and materials, since its inception. In fact, as of right now, there are more than 30 different examples of the inimitable timepiece on offer. So, to save you the hassle, we thought we'd pick through extensive offerings and choose three of our favourite models that can cater for different occasions: Hublot Spirit Of Big Bang Moonphase…

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Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor 19.11.2019

Taking another look at the Rolex Sky-Dweller Rolesor

Editor's note: The Rolex Sky-Dweller is an amazing timepiece. No doubt about it. It's also the epitome of what Rolex does so well — take something exceedingly complicated, like an annual calendar, and then create a simple, novel and ingenious way of not only displaying said complication but how you interact with the watch. Seriously, who else would have thought of something like utilising the fluted 18k yellow gold bezel to adjust the various different complications of the wristwatch? Anyway, in this writer's humble opinion, it's a stroke of genius, and I totally understand why the Sky-Dweller is today in such…

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Jean-Claude Biver’s watch collection 19.11.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Jean-Claude Biver's unbelievable watch collection

There's a pretty strong case to be made that Mr Jean-Claude Biver is one of, if not the most influential individual in the horological industry of the last half-a-century. Here is a man who cut his teeth at Audemars Piguet and witnessed first-hand the development of the now legendary Royal Oak. A man who would go on to work at Omega as their Product Manager, before leaving the Swiss watchmaking powerhouse to personally buy another legendary Swiss marque – Blancpain. Yes, Mr Biver's career is one steeped in history and influence and the uppermost echelons of the Swiss watchmaking industry.…

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Five summer DOXA 19.11.2019

5 fresh summer flavours for a DOXA summer

Summer is now thankfully just around the corner, which means we can ditch the black on black garb and finally bring some colour back into our lives and, more importantly, onto our wrists. And luckily, we're now stocking DOXA's entire collection of colourful timepieces, including the SUB 200, SUB 300T and SUB 1500T. These watches feature vivaciously coloured dials that are perfect for December through February, and will look on point whether you're headed to the beach, rooftop bar or the bottom of the ocean floor. We've picked out five of the hottest examples, and you better break out the…

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3 of the best Hublot Big Bangs 18.11.2019

Going out with a bang: 3 of the best Hublot Big Bangs

Ever since its unveiling way back in 2005 at Baselworld, Hublot's Big Bang has been not only an inimitable collection of timepieces but also a provocateur in the horological landscape that has challenged the notion of what a timepiece can and should be. As we're sure many of you will already know, the Big Bang is the brainchild of a true doyen of the watchmaking world, Mr Jean-Claude Biver. Mr Biver, who came onboard with Hublot in 2004, was tasked with reinvigorating the brand and taking it to the next level. His answer was the Big Bang. Its distinctive portal-shaped…

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Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue 17.11.2019

Rediscovering the Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue

Editor's note: The Rolex Milgauss is a distinctly underrated timepiece. In fact, it may be one of the most forgotten-about models in Rolex's current Professional line-up. And many of us thought leading up to Baselworld this year that it may well be discontinued, due to Rolex parading the Milgauss all over their social platforms and featuring the watch heavily at events like this year's Australian Open. I'm really glad the rumours weren't true, though, and that the Milgauss lives on, because in a sea of Submariners and Sea-Dwellers, the Milgauss provides a refreshingly original aesthetic that's unlike anything else that…

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Our top 5 dive watches of 2019 17.11.2019

3 great steel sports watches for under $3K

As much as it pains me to say it, for most people out there, spending anything more than a few hundred dollars for a wristwatch is a faintly absurd idea. However – as I'm sure most people reading this will agree – once you get bitten by the particularly costly watch bug, all of a sudden the rationale around what a "reasonable" sum of money is for a new timepiece suddenly escalates … greatly. It's a predicament that a good friend of mine finds himself in at the moment. Just a few short months ago he thought the notion of…

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TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford 16.11.2019

Taking another look at the TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford

Editor's note: Whether we like to admit it or not, professional watch modifiers are here to stay. And we can almost understand why — if you want to be an individualist in a sea of ostensible regularity, imparting your own touch on an otherwise middle of the road item can be enjoyable. But what about when watchmakers collaborate with the vicarious modifiers? What then? Some would argue that it's the best of both worlds, ergo, a modified and therefore unique piece, which retains important things like a factory warranty backing and better resale values. This TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford is…

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16.11.2019

3 TAG Heuer Calibre 16s that can do it all

TAG Heuer has been using its venerable chronograph-equipped Calibre 16 movement for more than two decades now. In fact, the storied movement has been utilised by the Swiss watchmaker in a great many of its models since 2005, when it was first released in the then new and completely overhauled Carrera. It's pretty easy to understand why TAG has used the Calibre 16 so religiously across its model line-ups for so long – this is a workhorse of a movement that benefits from a great many features, including self-winding, chronograph complication, date complication, 12-hour counter, 30-minute counter, running seconds, 42…

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16.11.2019

Would you pay a retailer 100K per year to choose 12 watches for you?

Because that's what Australian retailer Kennedy Luxury Watches are proposing with their 'Kennedy Luxury Watch Service'. Just 12 subscriptions will be available for that 100k, and all watches will, apparently, be "suited to the lifestyle, interests and personality" of each subscriber. And it's got us asking: where does this idea fall on an axis between madness and genius? The concept itself is not new. We pay mortgage brokers to find us the best mortgage rates, we pay stockbrokers to buy and sell our shares. Why not pay a retailer to help you build your watch collection? The logistics certainly are…

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James Marsden watches IWC 14.11.2019

#TBT to that time we interviewed self-professed watch geek James Marsden

Editor's note: Turns out that James Marsden is rather fond of a timepiece or two. Which is probably not much of a surprise to anyone, considering that if you are a Hollywood A-Lister and not into watches, there's probably something wrong with you … but I digress. Anyway, a few years ago, Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen was fortunate enough to interview the Westworld star about his love affair with timepieces. It's an interesting read, and if you've got the time, I highly recommend it.  One of the last people I saw before I left Australia for SIHH in January was…

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Rolex Professional 14.11.2019

Hype dodger: 3 steel Professional Rolex watches you can actually buy

$16,450 – that's the Australian recommended retail price of the Oystersteel Rolex Daytona ref. 116500LN. But, as I'm sure 99 per cent of people reading this are already patently aware, if you actually want to own one of these fabled watches, you can't merely walk into an AD and pick one up. No, if you want a "Panda" Daytona, you've got to venture into the slightly murky and occasionally insalubrious world of the grey/secondhand market. And even then, the steel Daytona is almost an anomalous object, and if you do manage to find one, you're paying at least $35K all…

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Longines Heritage Military 1938 14.11.2019

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines is on an absolute roll in 2019, and it seems like only yesterday that we were treated to one of their hottest watches of the year – the sector dial Longines Heritage Classic. Not wanting to rest on its blue-handed laurels, Longines has just dropped this bombshell of a vintage reissue, and they're calling it the Longines Heritage Military 1938. Based on a Longines military watch that was made on the cusp of the Second World War in 1938, this homage piece is ticking all the right boxes of a great mil-spec wristwatch. The case is hewn from stainless…

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Hublot tourbillon 13.11.2019

That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked

Editor's note: Early last year, our fearless leader Andrew McUtchen was fortunate enough to breach the inner sanctum of Hublot's High Complication Department and have a chat with the boss, Emmanuel Missillier. What's more, Mr Missillier proceeded to pull apart one of Hublot's intricate tourbillon movements, all for our viewing pleasure.  Hublot have made big strides in recent years to establish watchmaking credibility as a counterweight to its heavy-hitting celebrity power. Regular nominations in various GPHG categories – across women's and men's watches – have been a meaningful benchmark for progress, and new crowd-pleasers, such as the delightful movement architecture of…

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Tag Heuer Monaco Caliber 12 Final Edition 13.11.2019

TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the all-new Monaco 02, and it's a big deal because it's the first Monaco in the storied watch's 50-year history to utilise a completely in-house movement. As a result, the Swiss watchmaker is kissing goodbye to the old Sellita SW300-based Calibre 12 movement, which has been a stalwart of the Monaco for quite some time. However, the Calibre 12 has been a true workhorse of a movement, and TAG is keen to give the automatic movement the send-off it deserves. Which brings us to this, the limited TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 12 Final Edition. Limited…

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12.11.2019

That time we made a fantasy basketball team out of celebs who wear the Bulgari Octo

Editor's note: Question: What do David Gandy, Gerard Butler, Eric Bana, Bradley Cooper and Adrien Brody all have in common? Answer: They've all been spotted wearing a Bulgari Octo. And apart from being five exceedingly good-looking dudes, they're all rather tall gents. So naturally, our fearless leader Andrew McUtchen pondered, "What would this beefcake collective be like if they were to join forces and start a basketball team?". And spare a thought for the celebs who have been relegated to the bench, because let's face it, 175cm ain't gonna cut it on this team … Jeremy Renner!  Golden State Warriors,…

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Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One 12.11.2019

Tudor's Black Bay Ceramic One sold for a ridiculous amount at Only Watch 2019

If history is anything to go by, we shouldn't have been surprised at news coming out of Only Watch 2019 that Tudor's entry into the charitable auction, the Black Bay Ceramic One, had sold for a staggering 350,000 CHF ($515,000 AUD). In fact, for Tudor's third pièce unique entered into Only Watch to do anything other than command a crazily large bid would've been an abnormality. Why, you may ask? Well, the Swiss marque's first "Only Watch", the Tudor Black Bay One, was submitted for auction at the 2015 event, and while the estimate for the stainless steel diver was…

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Seiko Prospex LX Line Diver 12.11.2019

Seiko's Prospex LX Line Diver emerges from GPHG as a winner

Seiko's fit for purpose range of Prospex LX Line Diver's watches has beaten some tough competition from the likes of Longines, Ressence and De Bethune to take home the award for best Diver's watch at GPHG 2019. This is an important win for the Japanese manufacturer for two reasons: firstly, the winning Seiko is a Prospex, not a Grand Seiko, and secondly — and perhaps more significantly — the victory shows that the Seiko watches that sit below the aforementioned GS marque are being taken far more seriously, despite the hefty price tag that they now command. Mind you, even with the…

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TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector's Edition 11.11.2019

Remembering the TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector's Edition

Editor's note: When it comes to making timepieces with an affiliation to the full-throttle world of motorsport, few watchmakers have more success than TAG Heuer. Take this TAG Heuer Autavia Jo Siffert Collector's Edition for instance. Here is a wristwatch that faithfully pays homage to the original Heuer Autavia 1163T or, as it's more commonly known, the 'Siffert' Autavia. The Heuer Autavia 1163T earned its nickname because, perhaps rather obviously, it was worn by the late Swiss Formula 1 driver Joseph "Jo" Siffert. It was a brilliant timepiece, and this modern interpretation is just as good, and late last year…

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Jason Statham’s love affair with Rolex 11.11.2019

Steeling the show … Jason Statham's love affair with Rolex

What is it about leading actors and their affinity for Rolex's range of stainless steel sports watches? It almost seems like it's a rite of passage – become a famous thespian and then immediately adorn one's wrist with a steel 6263. Whether it's Steve McQueen, Paul Newman (obviously), Daniel Craig … the list just goes on and on. And then there's Hollywood's current "hard man", Jason Statham. Statham loves a vintage steel Rolex, as evidenced by the countless paparazzi photos that have caught the British actor sporting quite a few different iterations of old-school professional models. Perhaps most notably, Statham…

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Tag Heuer Monaco 02 11.11.2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02

TAG Heuer's fabled Monaco wristwatch, a timepiece immortalised in the annals of motorsport as a result of Steve McQueen sporting one in the 1971 film Le Mans, is for the first time in its history being produced with an in-house movement. That's right, whether you were aware of it or not, the TAG Heuer Monaco has, since its inception in 1969, been produced with an externally sourced movement. Back in 1969 it was the Calibre 11, and throughout the course of the next 50 years of its production the Monaco would employ a number of different third-party movements, such as…

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph 10.11.2019

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Editor's note: If you're in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex's Daytona, Omega's Speedmaster, Tudor's Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you're looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine point of difference, then the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph is a great option. JLC, known colloquially as the "watchmaker's watchmaker", have made movements for just abut every watchmaker in the game at some time or another. And this technical innovation and knowhow is really showcased in…

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10.11.2019

Smart Money: 5 of the best buys from Only Watch 2019

Most of the hype around the results of Only Watch 2019 has been wholly and solely squared at the monumental, record-breaking price achieved by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, and it's pretty easy to understand why … it sold for $31 million CHF (roughly $52 million AUD)! However, away from the white noise of the staggering price of the stainless steel Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, there were actually a fair few bargains (relative term) to be had at this year's Only Watch. In fact, some pièce unique examples actually sold for less than the regular variants of the…

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Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019 10.11.2019

Top 3 most expensive watches sold at Only Watch 2019, also featuring Audemars Piguet and F.P. Journe

Patek Philippe's entry into Only Watch 2019, the one-of-a-kind stainless steel Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A, has just smashed, in fact obliterated, the record for the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. But it wasn't just the Patek that stretched into the seven-figure stratosphere at the charitable auction last night, as two other pièce unique watches garnered tremendous amounts of attention and, more importantly, bids. Keep in mind, if like us at times, you feel despair at the runaway nature of high-end auctions, that this is for the good of the world. They are going to be able…

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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean "Big Blue" 09.11.2019

Taking another look at the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean "Big Blue"

Editor's note: Omega's Seamaster collection is vast and varied, and the Swiss watchmaking powerhouse isn't shy when it comes to creating new and innovative variants of its iconic diving watch. A classic example of this explorative ethos is this — the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean "Big Blue". The gorgeous and amply proportioned 45.5mm case is hewn from solid ceramic, and finished in a gorgeous shade of blue, and contrasted by bright bursts of orange. It's a compelling proposition for a great summer watch, especially when paired with its complementing navy blue and orange rubber strap with deployant clasp. What's more, the…

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Recommended watching: Joe Rogan talks watches 09.11.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Joe Rogan talks watches

Unless you've been in hibernation for the last five years, or you've had a complete moratorium on any type of connection to the Internet, chances are you've heard about Joe Rogan and his podcast. In fact, the comedian and former host of Fear Factor has such a large reach on the interwebs that his podcast has been listened to by hundreds of millions of people across the globe – it is unquestionably one of the most successful podcasts of all time. And Rogan will talk about literally anything, and host guests from all walks of life, whether they be other…

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The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 08.11.2019

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019

Well, it's been another successful year for what many in the horological world refer to as (much to the chagrin of Time+Tide's Nicholas Kenyon) the "Oscars of the watchmaking industry". And, much like Hollywood's most revered awards ceremony, there's been more than a few upsets at this year's Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, across quite a few different categories. Now we understand that GPHG is an awards ceremony, so the ability to please everyone is nigh on impossible. However, these three watches represent the biggest shocks from the famed awards night: Tudor P01   Yeah, I don't think anyone saw…

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Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2019 08.11.2019

Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is now less than 24 hours away from kicking off, and Breguet has really knocked it out of the park with their entry in this year's charitable auction. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2019 is, I think we can all agree, a handsome timepiece, and that's largely because the pièce unique is a faithful re-creation that aims to pay homage to a very early variant of the original Type XX. As a result, the aesthetics offer a charismatically vintage '50s appearance and, as is the case with any homage piece made today, you're getting old world…

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Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII 07.11.2019

Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII

Initially created for the French Ministry of Defence for the French Air Force, the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII are timekeeping devices steeped in the history of aviation-specific wristwatches. First released in 1954, the Type XX was the first aviation watch ever created by the storied Swiss watchmaker, who specifically produced the timepiece at the behest of the aforementioned French Ministry of Defence, who had originally approached Breguet to commission 500 examples of a flight-ready wristwatch with a flyback chronograph complication. The rest, as the old adage goes, is history, and now Breguet makes a great many iterations of…

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H.Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine 07.11.2019

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine

It's been a pretty busy year for boutique Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie, from the introduction of several new models at this year's SIHH, right through to the arresting Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, which was unveiled just a few short months ago. The eccentric Swiss marque isn't done with the 2019 new releases, however, as they've just dropped this – the stunning H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine. Based on the underpinnings of the original Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept, the new timepiece's Aventurine dial is quite stunning and, according to Moser, is meant to pay…

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06.11.2019

HOW TO: Take the perfect Instagram wristshot

Editor's note: I'm sure that at one point or another you've been wearing your favourite watch and thought, "This is definitely 'gram' worthy". But taking the perfect wrist shot is by no means a simple task. In fact, it's an art form that can be exceedingly complicated and multifaceted. Luckily for us, however, back in 2017, Ceri David treated us to an absolute masterclass in how to take the perfect "wristy" for Instagram. And whether you're a bit light on the follower count, or you're just looking at ways to up the photographic ante, this is definitely worth a read.…

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Most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019 06.11.2019

High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019

With Only Watch 2019 now just a few short days away, there's a veritable smorgasbord of gorgeous piece-unique watches and timekeeping devices heading to the auction block. In fact, there are 50 watches in total taking part in this year's charity auction, with all funds raised going to the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. And while all the timepieces are gorgeous and inimitable, the price from one watch to the next can vary greatly in terms of their estimated value. So, we thought it'd be interesting to take a look at the top 3 most expensive timepieces up for grabs…

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omega seamaster 03.11.2019

Mastering the elements with 3 Omega Seamasters

Omega's eponymous collection of Seamaster timepieces are as varied as they are capable, and no matter the occasion, chances are Omega makes a water-ready timepiece that's right for you. Genuinely, the Swiss marque's famed dive watches are available in so many different iterations that one could conceivably own several different variants from the same family of watches. With that in mind, we thought we'd take a look at three versions of the Omega Seamaster that will look great on your wrist, no matter the occasion. Omega Planet Ocean 600M Co‑Axial Master Chronometer 39.5mm For a daily timepiece, the Omega Seamaster…

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Farer Roché World Timer 02.11.2019

INTRODUCING: The Farer Roché World Timer

Boutique British watchmaker Farer have just released what many in the horological community are calling their best watch to date – the Farer Roché World Timer. Hewn from 316L stainless steel, the svelte 39mm case of the Roché World Timer is a mere 11mm thick, ensuring that the timepiece offers a great amount of bandwidth when it comes to wearability, while simultaneously landing it firmly in what many consider to be the "Goldilocks zone" of watch sizes. Housed inside the polished steel case is ETA's venerable 2893-1 "Top Grade" movement, a self-winding job that offers a great many features, including…

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Audemars Piguet Millenary Quadriennium 02.11.2019

Rediscovering Audemars Piguet Millenary Quadriennium

Editor's note: With the hype around AP's perennially popular Royal Oak seemingly drowning out the noise from almost any other watch in the horological industry, it's easy to forget that Audemars Piguet themselves make a fair few other excellent timepieces. And I'm not even talking about the doyens of the Le Brassus's most recent timepiece, Code 11.59. No, Audemars Piguet's Millenary collection is so often overlooked, and it shouldn't be, because it's a great watch that well and truly has earned its place in AP's collection. A couple of years ago, Felix Scholz was fortunate enough to go hands-on with…

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Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition 01.11.2019

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition

It's fair to say that Seiko has dropped quite a few limited edition anniversary timepieces in 2019, and you definitely could've been mistaken for thinking that surely the Japanese watchmaker had nothing left in their product arsenal … and then they released this – the Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. As the name suggests, the new Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron has been made to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the original Seiko Astron, which was first unveiled on Christmas Day 1969. Arguably one of the most important timepieces of the 20th century, the Seiko Astron was the…

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Breguet Classique 7147 31.10.2019

Taking another look at the Breguet Classique 7147

Editor's note: There's a lot of hype around steel sports watches these days, with seemingly every watchmaker and their proverbial dog jumping on the bandwagon. And we get it: steel sports watches are not only great looking, they tend to be a fair bit more practical and versatile than most other types of timepieces. But there's still something to be said for a great dress watch, and Breguet's Classique 7147 is an exemplary example of the breed. Our man Felix Scholz was lucky enough to go hands-on with this classy timepiece a little while ago, and if you've got the…

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TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition 31.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled the fifth and final iteration of its limited edition series of timepieces celebrating 50 years of the heroic Monaco wristwatch. Like the rest of the limited-run watches, which each celebrate a separate decade in the history of the Monaco since its inception in 1969, the 2009-2019 example will be limited to just 169 pieces. Taking styling cues from TAG Heuer's design language of the last decade, the 2009-2019 Monaco looks rather handsome thanks to a dark slate grey dial with complementing black gold-plated indices and hands, while bursts of contrasting red can be found on the…

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Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019 31.10.2019

Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019

It has been a stellar year for Grand Seiko, with the Japanese watchmaker releasing not only a bevy of new iterations of some of their most popular models, but also a completely new manual-wind dress watch, the SBGK series. And, as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the arresting dials adorning these new timepieces have been received with a fairly large amount of adoration within the horological community. So, with that in mind, we thought we'd whittle down all the new dial designs produced by Grand Seiko in 2019 and pick our five favourite examples: Grand Seiko SBGH269  …

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A history of the Rolex Daytona 30.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: A history of the Rolex Daytona

Editor's note: OK, I'm guessing that 99 per cent of people reading this are already well aware of Rolex's eponymous Daytona … and, admittedly, it's hard not to be. Here is a watch that is deeply desirable, seemingly unobtainable, and a cashed-up speculator's veritable dream timepiece. And, of course, it's not just the modern iterations of the Daytona that are so revered, with some models from years gone by now commanding price tags that would normally be associated with three-bedroom homes. Just a few weeks ago, for example, Ellen DeGeneres purchased an incredibly rare, solid 14k yellow gold Daytona ref.6241,…

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Bremont Project Possible Nirmal Purja 30.10.2019

Mission Accomplished! Nirmal "Nims" Purja smashes Bremont's Project Possible

Bremont brand ambassador and former British Special Forces serviceman Nirmal "Nims" Purja has destroyed the world record for scaling Earth's 14 tallest mountains, completing the amazing feat in just six months and six days, eclipsing the previous record, which stood for more than eight years. Project Possible kicked off in April this year, and Purja proceeded to scale, in order, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, K2, Broad Peak, Cho You, Manaslu and finally Shishapangma. All 14 of these mountainous peaks tower more than 8000 metres above sea level, which means that every single…

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch 29.10.2019

The only Barakuda you'll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch

With Only Watch 2019 now just a mere 11 days away from kicking off, we thought we'd take a look at Blancpain's Only entrant – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. The unique piece from the storied Swiss marque is, rather obviously, based on the standard Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. However, the Only Watch Barakuda sports very fetching hints of baby blue that can be observed on the edges of the hour indices, seconds hand tip and the numerals of the unidirectional rotating bezel. The blue signifies the reason why the Only Watch event exists – to support the research into Duchenne…

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29.10.2019

5 Longines heritage timepieces for every occasion

Longines offer a great many different styles of timepieces across five unique collections in their portfolio of wristwatches. And while each of the five collections provides a distinctive interpretation of what a timepiece should offer, in my opinion, the Swiss watchmaker's Heritage collection resonates the most with horological enthusiasts. These are the timepieces that hark back to some of Longines' most important watches of the last century and, more importantly, while the aesthetic presented is decidedly vintage, the innards of these Heritage watches are bang up to date, offering the latest and greatest engineering cred that the Longines has to…

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28.10.2019

Best of British –  4 celebs who rock Bremont watches

Whether watch enthusiasts want to admit it or not, there is definitely a curiosity when it comes to celebrity watch spotting. It's a guilty pleasure for most of us, and I have no shame admitting that I will regularly spend hours going down the virtual rabbit hole on Instagram, scoping what iced-out timepiece Mark Wahlberg has been spotted wearing this month. But it's not all frosted APs, Richard Milles and Patek Philippes. It seems that some of the Hollywood elite have broader taste.  For example, these four famous Britons from vastly different backgrounds appear to be rather fond of a certain independent British watchmaker;…

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Recommended Reading: An interview with Daryn Schnipper 27.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Daryn Schnipper

A Collected Man recently interviewed Daryn Schnipper, and if you don't know who she is … you really should. Schnipper has been working at Sotheby's in New York since 1980, first as a watch expert, and now as Senior Vice President of the auction house and Chairman of the International Watch Division. What's more, Schnipper has been responsible for selling some truly amazing timepieces over the years, not least the Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, which she has sold not once, but twice, for $11 million and $24 million respectively. Schnipper also talks about how the horological landscape has changed…

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Omega De Ville Trésor 26.10.2019

Suit up with Omega De Ville Trésor

Omega's recently updated line of De Ville Trésor presents as a compelling proposition for anyone looking for a beautifully made, elegant dress watch. And, for the first time in the De Ville Trésor family, there's now the option of steel-cased models, which can be had in a few different iterations. For a start, there's this gorgeous blue dial example, ref. 435.13.40.21.03.001, which looks positively replete with its almost linen-like textured aesthetic. And when paired with slender and sophisticated 18k white gold indices, as well as hour, minute and second hands, this is a watch that offers a great amount of…

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Doxa SUB 1200T 24.10.2019

IN-DEPTH: The DOXA SUB 1200T

The story in a second: The Doxa SUB 1200T offers a huge amount of legacy, technical capability and exclusivity. Let's press rewind for a second: the year is 1969, and Doxa S.A., a storied watchmaker established 80 years previously, in 1889, unveils the first publicly available dive watch in the world with a helium escape valve – the Doxa SUB 300T Conquistador. Developed in conjunction with the doyen of deep sea diving, Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the SUB 300T Conquistador became an instant must-have among the diving fraternity. And Cousteau believed in the product so resolutely that his company, U.S. Divers, became…

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Tudor Black Bay 41 Blue 23.10.2019

Taking another look at the Tudor Black Bay 41 Blue

Editor's note: These days, it's very easy for a watch to be too fussy, too over-designed. Whether it's unnecessary complications, awkward aesthetics or misjudged attempts at innovation, sometimes a watch just needs to be a watch. A great example of this is Tudor's Black Bay 41 Blue. This is a timepiece that first and foremost tells the time, honestly and clearly. There are no frills here, nothing too deliberate, just a clean and simple design, a handsome blue dial, solid build quality and a near bulletproof movement. It's a great example of a time-only watch done right, and our fearless…

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All wound up: 3 great manual winding watches released in 2019 23.10.2019

These 4 watches are a sure bet for this year's Spring Racing Carnival

With Melbourne's world famous Spring Racing Carnival now in full swing, there's a fair bit of chatter about what sort of watch you should be wearing to accompany your (let's face it) inevitably blue suit. Now, if you're planning to rock a three-piece, firstly kudos to you, and secondly, definitely consider a pocket watch – Longines has just released a great example, which actually honours their long affiliation with the noble sport of horse racing. However, for the rest of us who are planning to keep time via a wrist-worn timepiece, there are a great many options for such an…

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Ellen DeGeneres's new solid gold Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" ref. 6241 22.10.2019

Is this Ellen's best watch purchase yet?

To say Ellen DeGeneres likes a timepiece or two is probably one of the larger understatements of the year. In fact, you'd have to be living under a rock not to be aware that the comedian and talk show host's watch collection is probably among the very best of the Hollywood glitterati. There have been countless spots of DeGeneres sporting wrist-worn icons like the solid yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116718 with green dial, and the Patek Philippe ref. 5271 replete with diamond bezel and lugs. However, these watches pale in comparison to her latest purchase – a solid…

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Panerai Luna Rossa 22.10.2019

Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials

Following on from the successful first collaboration between Panerai and the America's Cup team Luna Rossa, which spawned the Submersible Luna Rossa, the Italian watchmaker has continued the relationship with the 36th America's Cup challenger to create three completely new watches. Retaining the same fundamental aesthetic as the first iteration — most notably the dial, which utilises real pieces of sailcloth from the Luna Rossa — the three new watches are, however, distinctly unique from one another, and feature a host of different materials and complications. The Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Regatta 47mm is the largest of the trio, and the substantial…

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The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878 22.10.2019

Just in time for the races: The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878

Paying homage to an affiliation that has spanned more than century, Longines has created a limited edition pocket watch honouring equestrian racing — the Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878. Hewn from solid 18k rose gold, the equestrian-themed pocket watch is said to imbue the Swiss watchmaker's passion for horse racing, and features an engraved motif of a horse and jockey on its case back. Limited to just 20 pieces in total, the Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878 is actually an exacting replica of the first pocket watch Longines ever produced with a chronograph complication. And, according to Longines, this…

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Omega's new museum 21.10.2019

Omega's contemporary new museum offers a unique glimpse into its past

Omega has just opened their latest Museum in the heart of the "La Cité du Temps" in Biel, Switzerland. The museum, which has a decidedly modern aesthetic, was designed by the award-winning Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, who is famed for his groundbreaking work with paper and recycled cardboard. Housed inside the contemporary institution is a capsule of the Swiss watchmaker's storied history, which dates back to 1848. The museum features several interactive showcases, as well as stimulating movies and exhibits aimed at celebrating and chronicling Omega's amazing legacy in horology. One of the standout features is a 9-metre running track…

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Hublot Big Bang MP - 11 SAXEM 19.10.2019

Going green with the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM

Hublot has just dropped the Big Bang MP-11 SAXEM, once again demonstrating why they are the vanguards of the horological industry when it comes to innovating new materials for wristwatches. The stunningly green case of the new Big Bang MP-11 is hewn from a material that has never been used before in a timepiece's case – SAXEM. An abbreviation of Sapphire Aluminium Oxide and rare Earth Mineral, the high-tech material receives its brilliant emerald green colour as a result of the Hublot Manufacture mixing materials such Aluminium oxide, which is the basic component of sapphire, with rare-earth elements such as…

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Building a great watch collection for less $2.5k 18.10.2019

5 for $500: Building a great watch collection for less than $2.5K

$2.5K can buy you quite a lot in this world – an economy plane ticket to just about anywhere on the planet, a car that's probably (definitely) going to have questionable reliability or, if you're so inclined, a really, really nice bottle of wine. And for us watch enthusiasts out there who already have a varied and sizeable collection, $2500 is enough to access a veritable cornucopia of brilliant timepieces from dozens of different manufacturers. But what if you're a budding horological enthusiast and you don't have any watches yet? Is it possible to create a great watch collection that…

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The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Volcano 17.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Volcano

Linde Werdelin has once again teamed up with master engraver and artist Johnny "King Nerd" Dowell to create this – the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Volcano. Dowell, who was an engraver at the notable British gun makers James Purdey & Sons for 15 years, has previously worked with Linde Werdelin to create the Oktopus Reef and the Crazy Universe limited edition timepieces. Representing the third collaboration between Dowell and the boutique Swiss watchmaker, the Oktopus Volcano, as the name would suggest, depicts an active volcano. As such, the 44mm grade 2 titanium case, which is meant to portray a jagged rock…

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Seiko SNJ025 Solar ‘Arnie’ 15.10.2019

Get to the boutique! The Seiko SNJ025 Solar 'Arnie'

The argument could quite easily be made that most watch manufacturers in attendance at this year's Baselworld watch fair tended to err on the side of caution when it came to releasing new timepieces. However, Seiko certainly bucked this trend, unveiling quite a few new and exciting timepieces, and surprising the collective horological community with this, the new Seiko SNJ025 Solar 'Arnie'. A faithful re-creation of a cult classic, the Seiko H558-5000, the new SNJ025 Solar does a great job of paying homage to the original timepiece that earned its colloquialism as a result of being worn by the one…

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IWC takes to the water with Haydenshapes Surfboards 10.10.2019

IWC ranked as top Swiss watch brand by WWF for reducing environmental impact, celebrates on tiny floating house

In their latest joint venture, IWC Schaffhausen and surfboard designer and entrepreneur Hayden Cox have teamed up to create a unique concept – the world's first floating surfboard design studio. This very Australian activation was also designed to highlight the brand's recent efforts to reduce their environmental impact, by – for example – using 90 per cent less plastic in their current packaging. Members of the press were treated to a scenic flight around Rose Bay in NSW in a seaplane emblazoned with the IWC logo and watch motif, before landing on Palm Beach and disembarking onto the floating design…

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Must De Cartier Tank 09.10.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank

Editor's note: I think most people reading this fully appreciate just how dire things were in the 1970s as a result of the notorious "quartz crisis". Myriad Swiss watchmakers seemed to just disappear overnight, succumbing to a battery-powered onslaught led by Seiko, who inundated the wristwatch market with inexpensive, accurate timepieces. It was an interesting time in horology to say the least, and perhaps one of the most fascinating things about the quartz crisis, looking back at it now, is studying how the established Swiss marques dealt with the problem and tried to keep their proverbial heads above water. Cartier,…

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The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference. 126603 09.10.2019

Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603

To say there was quite a bit of controversy when Rolex unveiled the two-tone Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 at this year's Baselworld is, at the very least, an understatement. In fact, there was nothing short of a litany of disparaging comments, which varied greatly in context, and ranged from questioning the two-tone Sea Dweller's validity as a proper dive watch, to whether or not Rolex had completely taken leave of their senses. Keyboard warriors and vocal detractors aside though, and more than six months on from the notorious reveal, has the Rolex Sea-Dweller been an unmitigated failure, devoid of appreciation or…

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08.10.2019

Taking a closer look at the Omega Co‑Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph – Blue Side Of The Moon

Editor's note: OK, I'm not sure how many sides of the moon actually exist but, according to Omega and their collection of "… Side Of The Moon" special edition Speedmasters, it's several. And while all the iterations of these Speedmasters are very fetching-looking timepieces, this example, the Omega Co‑Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph — Blue Side Of The Moon, has got to be in the discussion as one of the best models so far. For a start, and unlike other models in the range, it's equipped with Omega's staggering Calibre 9904, which offers a great deal of features including METAS-approved Master…

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Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor 07.10.2019

Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor

Editor's note: It's easy for the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor to get lost in the perpetual noise caused by some of its more popular siblings within Rolex's Professional range. But to simply overlook this wristwatch would be a categorical mistake, because the Yacht-Master 40 has a great many positives when compared not just to timepieces from other manufacturers, but even other watches within the aforementioned Professional collection. For a start, because the Yacht-Master 40 is only waterproof to 100 metres, its case is actually a fair bit slimmer than something like the Submariner. This means that it's arguably more…

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4 banging weekend watches for under $500 07.10.2019

4 banging weekend watches for under $500

It's all very well and good having a mainstay, go-to timepiece that you can rely on for daily duties Monday to Friday, but what happens if you want to change it up for the weekend? For most enthusiasts, the criteria for watches worn on Saturday and Sunday are very different to that of a weekday-warrior: they need to be casual, potentially novel and, if possible, relatively inexpensive. With all these conditions in mind, here are four weekend watches that are chock-full of character and won't break the bank: Q Timex Reissue   Becoming an instant cult classic when it was…

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3 of the best ladies watches at GPHG 06.10.2019

3 of the best ladies watches at GPHG

With the watchmaking industry's famed awards ceremony, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève — or as it's more commonly known, GPHG — fast approaching, we thought we'd mention a few more nominated watches that you should be keeping an eye on. Now, we've already covered a host of brilliant timepieces from Bulgari and Zenith that have been nominated, and we've also been lucky enough to see the entire 84 nominated pieces in person. But we thought it would also be pertinent to mention three of the best ladies timepieces that have been given the nod from the award ceremony's expert judges. Louis…

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The Grand Seiko STGK011 & STGK013 06.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko STGK011 & STGK013

Grand Seiko has expanded their offerings of ladies watches with two new additions to their Elegance Collection – the Grand Seiko STGK011 and STGK013. The bezel-less beauties have drawn inspiration from the Japanese watchmaker's original sans-bezel timepiece, the Grand Seiko 62GS, which was first unveiled in 1967. And, to really dial up the glitz, the new timepieces' unique tonneau-like cases are adorned with no fewer than 38 diamonds, measuring 0.41 carats in total, lining the flanks of the svelte 30.6mm steel cases. Available in two different dial designs: a shimmering silver dial reminiscent of freshly fallen snow (STGK011) and a…

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Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow 05.10.2019

Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

Editor's note: OK, yes, it seems as though every time you scroll through Instagram these days, it's highly probable that your feed will be inundated with myriad "rainbow" bejewelled-bezel timepieces.            And whether you're for or against them, there's no denying it – these bedazzled technicolour flex watches are firmly solidified in the zeitgeist of current watch culture. It's not just the ubiquitous (if you can call it that) Rolex Daytona Ref. 116595 RBOW either, with several watchmakers jumping on the figurative "coloured ice drop" bandwagon. Hublot, in particular, has been a strong proponent for these types of timepieces, with the…

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Top 3 watches that could save your life 05.10.2019

Top 3 watches that could save your life

To the uninitiated, it may come as a surprise to learn that watches can actually do a fair bit more than merely tell you what time it is. In fact, the myriad complications that can currently be housed inside a timepiece are actually a little bit staggering when you stop to think about it. Weekly calendar, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, moon phase … the list goes on and on. But here's one thing that I bet even the most astute of watch enthusiasts may not have considered – some watches can save your life, and here…

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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked 04.10.2019

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque's ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar's 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And when combined and contrasted with the gorgeously warm tones of the openworked dial's pink gold accents, this makes for one of the most aesthetically appealing watches AP has released this year. Speaking of the openworked movement, it's Audemars Piguet's prodigious, in-house Caliber 5135, a self-winding…

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03.10.2019

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary — SRQ029J

Celebrating five decades since its first automatic chronograph was released, Seiko has just unveiled this, the new Seiko Automatic Chronograph SRQ029J 50th Anniversary. First revealed in 1969, the original Seiko Automatic Chronograph featured the Japanese watchmaker's historic Calibre 6139 movement, which utilised an integrated vertical clutch and column wheel chronograph architecture. 1969 was a competitive and interesting time for watchmakers, as it wasn't just Seiko that was trying to bring an automatic chronograph to market in the last year of the Swinging Sixties. In fact, not only was an automatic chronograph joint venture between Heuer and Breitling on the precipice of release, but…

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Montblanc Orbis Terrarum UNICEF Limited Edition 30.09.2019

Revisiting the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum UNICEF Limited Edition

Editor's note: A recent discussion in the office has brought up the rather interesting question: "What is the best watch for international travel?" LOTS of different watches were bandied about as suggestions and, of course, names like the Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLRO and Patek Philippe 5930G were hotly debated as some of the best. And there's no doubting that these aforementioned watches are absolutely brilliant at what they do, but — and it's a big but — they're also very expensive. Which got me thinking about the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum, because it's a handsome looking watch, with a very useful world…

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5 most unattainable watches 30.09.2019

Hype beasts – 5 of this year's most unobtainable watches

While there are some enthusiasts out there who feel as though the vast majority of new watches released at this year's Baselworld and SIHH were a bit … safe, there were still some real stunners unveiled from legacy outfits like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. And, because the collective products of these three aforementioned watchmakers are arguably the most desirable in the horological hemisphere right now, they're particularly hard to actually get a hand on. So, chances are you're not going to be able to walk into your local AD and pick up one of these wrist-worn rock stars,…

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 29.09.2019

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Editor's note: Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak is unquestionably one of the most important wristwatches of all time and it is steeped in history for so many reasons. For a start, the unique aesthetics of the now iconic watch and integrated bracelet were designed by the doyen of horological design, Gérald Genta, in less than 24 hours. Let that sink in: the timepiece that completely changed the game of luxury sports watches forever was conceived in less time than it would take us to fly to Geneva. What's more, when it was released in 1972, the Royal Oak cost 3300 Swiss franc…

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29.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI

Hublot has teamed up with the initiative Save Our Rhino Africa/India (SORAI) to create the fetching, limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI. Stylised to mimic the tonal colours of Africa's vast bush land, the new Big Bang Unico SORAI's 45mm case is finished in microblasted beige ceramic, as is the watch's bezel. Providing a stark contrast, the chronograph pushers and the crown of the limited edition watch are finished in a black composite resin. The dial of the Unico SORAI has been given the same aesthetic treatment, and the openwork-skeletonised movement is finished in matt beige, while the running…

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Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier 29.09.2019

The Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier

Paying homage to a man widely regarded as the father of modernism, Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret), Rado's stunning range of True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier could definitely be worth a look as your next summer watch. Le Corbusier, the visionary Swiss designer, architect and writer, created the concept of Architectural Polychromy – a palette that employs 63 different colours of architectural significance to assist with the portrayal of depth and space. These 63 colours are then grouped into nine different categories: vibrant, velvety, balanced, bold, powerful, expressive, luminous, impressive and pure. Rado's new True Thinline collection wonderfully encapsulates these…

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The Cost Per Wear Argument 28.09.2019

Rediscovering the Rolex GMT-Master II "Pepsi"

Editor's note: Almost two years on from its release at 2018's Baselworld, Rolex's GMT-Master II 126710 BLRO or "Pepsi", as it's colloquially known across the globe, is still an incredibly desirable timepiece. And it's pretty easy to understand why – 904L steel or "Oyster Steel" construction, Jubilee bracelet, bidirectional Cerachrom bezel, chronometer certification with an accuracy rating of +2/-2 seconds a day, waterproof to 100 metres, GMT complication – this watch has just got so much to offer. A first of its kind, Rolex's Pepsi GMT is also steeped in an incredibly rich history, and dates back to the mid-1950s,…

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28.09.2019

Size is the prize: 3 seriously big watches

While there are many watch enthusiasts out there who consider timepieces with a case size of between 36mm and 40mm to be sitting in the "Goldilocks" zone, there are watches in existence that most certainly do not conform to this notion. These timepieces are made for enthusiasts who want something that has genuine presence on the wrist, something that may well struggle to fit under the cuff of a shirt but can be seen and noticed from a great distance. We appreciate that sometimes a great wrist flex is all about the mass, so here are three watches that can…

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Longines HydroConquest 28.09.2019

Why this Longines is the best watch I've ever owned

Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and preferably fitted with a steel bracelet. Now I know what you're thinking: "Well, James, you've got a veritable cornucopia of choice if those are the only sticking points for the new purchase." Well, there was one other condition – I didn't want to spend any…

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Seiko’s 9F Quartz Movement 27.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Seiko's 9F Quartz Movement

SJX Watches recently published an in-depth look at Seiko's prodigious and fabled 9F Quartz movements, which are now in their 26th year of production. And there's no question the 9F is a genuinely high-end movement that has taken decades of engineering to perfect. It's actually a remarkable feat of timekeeping when you think about it like this: the 9F will never lose or gain more than 10 seconds a year … that's an absurd level of accuracy, and it laughs in the figurative faces of any mechanical movement on the planet. Take into account that every single 9F is assembled…

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Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 26.09.2019

Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943

Editor's note: Panerai are known for many things – a rich Italian heritage in watchmaking that dates back to 1860, steep aquatic history providing watches for the naval forces of many countries, most notably Italy and Egypt, and a quintessential design language that has spanned the better part of a century … the list goes on. What Panerai is not known for is making watches to pair with a suit-and-tie combo. In fact, something like a 47mm Submersible Bronzo is about the farthest thing away from what we'd want to don at a black tie event. However, Panerai's Luminor Due…

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Tag Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition 26.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled its penultimate limited edition 50th anniversary Monaco, and this one pays homage to the wonderful era that was the noughties. This is the fourth iteration of the limited-run watches, which are celebrating 50 years of the fabled original Heuer Monaco, first released in 1969. We've already seen the eclectic mix of '60-'70s, '70s-'80s and '80s-'90s, which have been introduced at various stages throughout the year and each have their own unique flair and style. Sticking to the basic formula seen on the rest of the limited-run models, the 1999-2009 edition still utilises the same 39mm steel…

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Instagram’s influence on movement finishing 25.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram's influence on movement finishing

SJX Watches recently published a fascinating story by Brandon Moore that takes a look at the impact that Instagram and other social media platforms have had on the scrutiny and importance of watch movement finishing. Moore talks to former Patek Philippe watchmaker and founder of Akrivia watches, Rexhep Rexhepi, about the influence of the social media app and how it has affected not just Rexhepi's business, but also the larger watchmaking community as a whole. The article also rather interestingly points out that intricate watch movement finishing is actually a relatively new phenomenon, as previous generations of watchmakers saw overly…

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3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs 25.09.2019

3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs

There are certain watches out there in the horological ether that are not only lauded by loyal followers but also able to accomplish a hell of a lot for little outlay. Whether it is accuracy, toughness and dependability, innovation, or technicality, these cult-like timepieces are worth far more than the sum of their parts, and we are honour-bound to ensure that you know about them. So, much like a former Aussie cricketer did when he dated a British actress, here are three watches that punch well above their weight: Swatch Sistem51 Whichever way you look at it, the Swatch Sistem51…

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Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service 25.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty's Secret Service

OK, we'll skip the whole "shaken, not stirred" routine and skip to the salient facts. Omega has just released its latest Bond-themed timepiece, the Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty's Secret Service – and it's pretty awesome. Limited to just 7007 pieces (see what they did there?), the Bond watch pays homage to, as the name would suggest, the 1969 classic Bond movie On Her Majesty's Secret Service. There are quite a few unique styling cues that feature on this bespoke timepiece, and some of them are pretty impressive. For a start, the limited edition wristwatch is based…

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Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch 24.09.2019

Looking back at Bulgari's Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Editor's note: I think it's fairly safe to say that Gérald Charles Genta is the 20th century's most notable designer of wristwatches. Many know the list of his accomplishments, but the sheer scope and impact of his unique and inspired design language is still sometimes difficult to grasp. Royal Oak, Nautilus, Constellation, Ingenieur, Golden Ellipse – the list of triumphs goes on and on. However, what many people don't know is that, in the twilight of his career, Genta established his own watch brand, which was subsequently purchased by Bulgari. And when looking through Bulgari's current and past collection of…

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Frank Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton 24.09.2019

The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton

Artisanal watchmakers Franck Muller have really taken it to the next level with their latest timepiece, the Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton. Available in a range of different precious metals, including 18k yellow gold and 18k rose gold, the case of the prodigious new wristwatch measures an imposing 44mm and is 12.65mm thick. Housed inside the curvex-style case is Franck Muller's Calibre MVT.1740VSYA, a 21-jewel, hand-wound skeletonised movement that offers customers an impressive seven days of power reserve and beats away at 18,000 vibrations per hour. This beautifully presented movement is sandwiched between two pieces of sapphire crystal, giving…

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Baselworld underrated watches 2019 24.09.2019

3 seriously underrated watches released in 2019

A great watch should always get the recognition it deserves; however, sometimes that just simply isn't the case. Whether it's down to hyped timepieces being unveiled at the same time, the watchmaker in question not being particularly revered, or how the timepiece in question derives its source of power … there are myriad reasons why a new watch might not attain the right levels of attention. So, with all this in mind, we thought we'd share with you three timepieces that were released this year that you may not have even heard of, but should definitely be on your radar.…

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James May and the Quartz Watch 23.09.2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: James May and the Quartz Watch

James May, doyen of automotive journalism, presenter of Amazon's The Grand Tour and former presenter of BBC's Top Gear, knows a great many things about the mechanical innards of an automobile. It turns out that Mr May is also rather savvy when it comes to understanding the complexity of the technology that almost single-handedly and irreversibly destroyed the Swiss mechanical watch industry – the Quartz Watch. In this rather wonderful video made by the BBC's Earth Lab, May goes through the engineering, history and application of Quartz technology. It may also interest you to know that May has quite the…

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23.09.2019

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar

The very utterance of the words "must have" when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex Submariner is never far out of the equation either. But you know what? I don't think there is any particular make or model of watch that you simply HAVE to possess in an ideal assemblage of timepieces. However, there are definitely certain styles/genres of timepieces…

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The Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light 23.09.2019

Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light

Editor's note: With weather more conducive to anything other than complete hibernation finally starting to creep back into our lives Down Under, it's got everyone here in the office talking about what watch you should be wearing when the board shorts, bikinis and budgie smugglers come out. Now, we've already covered what we think will be in vogue this coming summer, and its vibrant white watches. But what if you're not so inclined to wear something that's so fabulously OTT? What happens if you're after something that still offers the characteristics of a great summer timepiece, but does so without…

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H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Venturer 22.09.2019

3 Mosers we're excited to see next week

H. Moser & Cie are coming Down Under next week to show off some of their hottest new timepieces. We can't wait to see Moser's very rare watches, especially these three stunners: Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD Moser has decided to up the horological ante once again with its latest Pioneer, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD. The MD employs the use of dual windows, and it sees the month indicator being saddled up closely to the left of the Pioneer's date window, which arguably makes for even clearer legibility than its previous Pioneer Perpetual Calendar. Available in both Funky Blue Fumé…

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22.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB

It seems like every other week there's a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this — the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That's right, there's now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one's got a real point of difference. You see, although it may look like it's using the same type of rubber as a regular G-Shock, it's actually a fully titanium case, bracelet, bezel, caseback and buttons.   And if the new titanium wasn't enough, Casio has…

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Richard Mille RM50-04 Kimi Räikkönen 22.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there's only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one and only "Iceman" of the Formula 1 paddock, Mr Kimi-Matias Räikkönen. The RM 50-04 also celebrates the watchmaker's affiliation with Alfa Romeo's Formula 1 Racing Team, which Räikkönen has been a part of since signing with the Swiss race team in 2018. As a result,…

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Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon 21.09.2019

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches

It isn't hard to imagine that Zenith is probably feeling pretty darn confident about being given more than one award at this year's Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Not least for the fact that five of the Swiss marque's timepieces have been given the nod by the prestigious event's judges across no fewer than five different categories. This is a seriously big deal for Zenith, especially when you consider that in the eyes of many, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève is the Swiss watch industry's most revered awards event, though we mustn't compare GPHG to a certain Hollywood-based awards…

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Gorillaz and G-Shcok’s latest collaboration 20.09.2019

G-Shock and Gorillaz's latest collaboration is out Now Now!

Following the successful first collaboration between British virtual band Gorillaz and Japan's G-Shock, the dynamic duo has once again teamed up for their latest and final collaboration together. Their two newest limited-edition creations, the GA2000GZ-3A and GW-B5600GZ-1, aim to pay homage to the iconic music group's first album, Gorillaz, and their latest album, The Now Now. The Gorillaz-themed timepiece, GA2000GZ-3A, is based on the standard GA-2000 Series of watches that feature G-Shock's Carbon Core Guard and an interchangeable band. The collaborative piece scores a striking green camouflage motif, faithfully portraying the cover art of the original Gorillaz album. Features of…

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The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer 19.09.2019

Revisiting the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer

If you're in the market for one Swiss mechanical watch to do it all — come rain, hail or shine, 365 days of the year — and you've got a budget of around $10,000, most people would head straight for a Rolex Datejust. In fact, the argument could quite easily be made that the Datejust is the archetypal, go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece thanks to features like a waterproof case, chronometer certified in-house movement, supreme robustness and superlative build quality. However, Omega also makes a watch that genuinely rivals the Rolex in every aforementioned criterion. And yet, due to almost all of Omega's…

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The New Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33 19.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33

Ladies and the slight of wrist, rejoice! And behold the latest offering from German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte – the Nomos Metro Rose Gold 33. In a first for Nomos' Metro range, the Rose Gold is being offered to customers exclusively in a 33mm case size. Designed by Nomos' Berlin-based stalwart Mark Braun, the new Metro features rose gold hour, minute and seconds hands affixed to a wonderfully subtle silver-plated dial. Contrasted with grey hour indices and purple minute markers, the Rose Gold Metro is unashamedly angled towards a female audience. The new 33mm case is beautifully finished in polished 18k…

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Rolex Deepsea ref.126660 18.09.2019

"No other Rolex is designed like this" – Michael's Rolex Deepsea

Whether it's the Submariner, Sea-Dweller or Deepsea, Rolex's iconic range of professional dive watches have rather a lot in common. However, as Michael points out with his prized Deepsea ref.126660, the legacy watchmaker's amphibious timepieces are not all created equal. In fact, the first time that Michael realised he wanted to own the herculean dive watch was when he saw one completely disassembled, and he appreciated just how different and unique the construction of the Deepsea is. As Michael explains, the Deepsea needs to be capable of withstanding quite monumental pressures when being submerged underwater at depths of up to 3900 metres…

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 18.09.2019

Sun's out, guns out: 3 ace watches to kick off the summer vibes

Yes, we're somewhat getting ahead of ourselves here, but with the abject misery of Australia's particularly dismal winter now in the rearview mirror, it's time to start thinking about ideal summer watches. What's more, thanks to the land of Oz perpetually being six months behind the Northern Hemisphere's summer style, we've already got a pretty clear idea as to what's in vogue for the warmer months ahead. It might not come as a surprise to many, but white watches are definitely making a strong case for being attached to your wrist for when the thermostat cracks 30+ degrees. So, with…

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Review 17.09.2019

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Editor's note: Recently, we talked about some sports watches with an integrated bracelet that could be great alternatives to the usual suspects from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Thing is, though, there's another awesome timepiece from one member of the horological holy trinity that also fits the bill for an awesome integrated sports timepiece – the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. In particular, we're taking a look back to when Felix got the chance to go hands-on with a seriously beautiful example of the Overseas.  When it comes to Vacheron Constantin's SIHH releases, there's no doubt the pieces that were the talk…

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John Mayer’s insane watch collection 17.09.2019

RECOMMENDED READING: John Mayer's insane watch collection

We're pretty sure that most of you are already aware of just how absurdly ridiculous Mr John Mayer's watch collection is, thanks to myriad Instagram posts, news stories and two rather famous Talking Watches episodes. But the sheer scope and significance of the musician's horological haul still tends to beggar belief, especially if you've ever wondered what it must all be worth. Well, consider the wondering over, at least for some of his collection, because a rather enthusiastic chap on the interwebs has gone and tallied up the total value of 27 of Mayer's prized possessions. Granted, the estimates are…

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Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition 17.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition

It seems like only yesterday that Breitling released their Navitimer 1 Airline Editions. Evidently, time doesn't stop for the aeronautically enthusiastic watchmaker, though, because they've just dropped this – the Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 Etihad Airways Limited Edition.   Based on Breitling's standard Aviator 8 Day & Date 41, the Etihad Airways edition sees the 41mm timepiece score a black dial with contrasting Arabic numerals, as well as the hour, minute and second hands being finished in a distinctive rose gold colour.   The quirky dial is actually a first for Breitling, as the Swiss watchmaker has…

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Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark 16.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark

Tudor has decided to honour its partnership with New Zealand's All Blacks the only way it knows how … with a limited edition watch, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. Made to not only pay tribute to the All Blacks' illustrious history, which dates back to 1884, the Chrono Dark also celebrates the rugby team's 2019 title defence of the Rugby World Cup. Just 1181 watches will be created initially, and we know what you're thinking: what's the significance of 1181? Well, that's how many Kiwi rugby players have been selected for the country's national squad since its inception. What's…

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Raketa Copernic 16.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Raketa Copernic

Russian watchmaker Raketa has just released a modern interpretation of its classic Raketa Copernic wristwatch, and it is a uniquely compelling timepiece. First created in the 1980s in the twilight of the Soviet Union, the original Copernic was made to honour the renaissance-era Polish astronomer and mathematician Nicolaus Copernicus. Like the original, the new homage piece has a fascinating and novel dial that portrays the earth and moon's rotation around the sun in space. As a result, the hour hand is styled as a golden orb that represents the sun, while the minute hand is a large, hollow silver ring…

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15.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime

The horological mavericks at Urwerk have just dropped their latest wristwatch and it is, pardon the pun, out of this world! The Urwerk UR-100 SpaceTime is a stratospherically cool and novel concept for a timepiece, and one that seems very, very complicated indeed. Essentially, the SpaceTime will not only tell its lucky owners the time, but the distance travelled on Earth and the distance travelled by Earth. Much like other watches in Urwerk's back catalogue, their latest timepiece employs the use of the watchmaker's famed orbital hour satellites and striking red-tipped arrow minute pointer, which makes its way across the bottom of the…

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15.09.2019

Unsung Heroes: 4 integrated steel sports watches that deserve your attention

For many of us out there, the dream of one day owning a grail watch, like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 or Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A, is going to remain just that … a dream. And the funny part is, it's got nothing to do with the amount of spondulicks in your bank account! No, chances are that even if you do have the cold hard cash to buy one of these wrist-worn idols, you're still not going to be able to get your hands on one. But never fear, all hope is not lost, because there are some great steel…

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14.09.2019

INTRODUCING: The Limited Edition Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf

Hot off the heels of their last limited-run homage piece, the Astrographic, Zodiac has teamed up with the London-based luxury retailer Liberty to give us this – the Zodiac X Liberty Super Sea Wolf. Like Zodiac, Liberty has been around for more than a century, and has a brilliant history of providing Londoners, as well as travellers from across the globe, with some of the finest luxury fabrics and objets d'art that money can buy. Limited to just 30 pieces, the GMT-equipped Super Sea Wolf features splashes of Liberty's signature shade of purple. The distinct purple can be found on…

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13.09.2019

Getting up to speed with the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition

Unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition celebrates the Swiss watch brand's illustrious 31-year relationship with Italy's most storied road rally. Inspired by not just the event itself, but the classic automobiles that compete in the famous rally, the 2019 Race Edition represents the passion that Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele shares for classic automobiles. The striking 44mm case is available in either steel or two-tone steel and rose gold, and is paired with a motorsport-inspired perforated tan leather band with Chopard's signature rubber tyre tread pattern lining. Like most watches born out of the crucible of…

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Vintage Rolex GMT Master 24.08.2019

Buying vintage Rolex – Utilitarian ideal without waiting list ordeal

For almost every watch enthusiast, the first sojourn into the world of the vintage watch market is two things: fun and inexpensive. The thrill of owning something that was created and worn several decades ago, the history, the gorgeous patina and, in most cases, the value for money – it just seems like there are zero downsides. My first vintage piece was a gold-capped Tudor Oyster Prince from the early '60s. It wasn't a minter by any means, with scratches and swirls galore adorning both the plexi and the case. But I didn't care one bit, because in my humble…

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