Are Tudor watch movements in-house? What is Kenissi? Andrew explains all

Time+Tide

What actually is an in-house movement? What is a manufacture calibre? What is the difference between an in-house calibre and a manufacture calibre, and what, then, does Tudor use? In this video, Andrew explores the nuanced distinction between “in-house” and “manufacture” movements in the context of Tudor, a fan-favourite watch brand that collaborates closely with the movement maker it founded, Kenissi. Tudor’s approach challenges traditional watchmaking labels by emphasising performance and value over terminology… But it’s worth explaining those nuances, so that’s what we’ve done.

Historically, Tudor relied on third-party ETA movements, but ue to supply restrictions, Tudor opted to establish and partner with Kenissi, a movement manufacturer that shares a wall with the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland to produce high-quality calibres shared with Tudor and other brands like Breitling, Chanel, and Norqain. Kenissi’s movements, such as the MT5621 introduced in 2015, represent Tudor’s first proprietary supplied calibres, though they’re not fully “in-house” by traditional definitions. This partnership allows Tudor to offer top-tier performance at competitive prices while supporting the broader watch industry.

Whereas many brands, rightfully or wrongly, would refer to a movement maker they helped create and have a majority stake in as its in-house movement manufacture, Tudor takes no issue with referring to its movements developed with Kenissi as manufacture calibres. The devil’s in the details. That said, Tudor’s movements made by Kenissi retain exclusive features, including decorative ones like blackened bridges as well as technical ones like silicon hairsprings and tungsten rotors, which are reserved for Tudor and contribute to the brand’s pursuit of METAS certification for more and more of its watches. Also, while some Tudor watches still use ETA or Sellita movements (notably in collections like Royal and 1926), the brand plans to eventually transition all models to Kenissi movements.

TL;DR – Tudor’s strategic philosophy is that it does not prioritise the label of “in-house” versus “manufacture” but instead focuses on delivering the best possible watch performance at the best price. Tudor’s unique model blends the advantages of specialised movement manufacturing with a commitment to accessibility, disrupting traditional hierarchies in watchmaking. Ultimately, Tudor’s story underscores that performance, not the origin of a movement’s production, is paramount.