6 affordable watches that look much more expensive than they are, from US$300 to US$3,000

Borna Bošnjak

Time+Tide is the last place you’ll find telling you a more expensive-looking watch is automatically better, but looking at watches as a general rule, there are some things that simply aren’t feasible with more affordable pieces. Usually, brands save the most money by using different movements, but some fall foul of the “minimalism” trap that ultimately just becomes lazy design. Naturally, there are watches that are the complete antithesis of this, delivering oodles of visual charm at lower price points, so much so that they could easily be mistaken for costing multiple times their retail – here are six watches fitting that description.

Orient Bambino 38mm Small Seconds

Those who are a fair way along their watchmaking journey won’t be surprised to see the Bambino starting off this list. It’s a collection starter kit classic, offering great value for money for its finish, in-house automatic movement, and dashing good looks. The only complaint the watch cognoscenti had was its size – at 40mm, it wasn’t the preferred dress watch size for many, especially with the downward diameter trend. That’s where this Small Seconds variant comes in, with its 38.4mm diameter, with pricing that’s often far below its RRP thanks to numerous sales. Price: US$289 (RRP)

Lorier Hydra Series III

With more and more microbrands cropping up, many of them going the design-first route (with brutalism currently leading the charge), the vintage-inspired diver certainly isn’t what it was. For Lorier, a brand that relies on this mid-century aesthetic, that meant zhuzhing it up a bit for the third Hydra generation. The result is possibly one of the most compelling all-rounders on the market. The Hydra Series III sports a flyer GMT Miyota 9075, a fantastically finished and proportioned case, and great use of two-tone lume across the dial, 24-hour rehaut, and bezel insert. Granted, this is one of the brawnier models in Lorier’s range, so if you want to shave off a couple of millimetres all around, go with the Hyperion GMT for the same price. Price: US$599

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRE015

Seiko’s Cocktail Time is maybe a no-brainer choice for a dress watch, with dials that rival watches many times the price. One that really stuck with me was the SRE015 Star Bar special edition, with the addition of its faceted Hardlex. It really amps up the feathered dial texture, and if you’re not into the 30mm size, go with the SRPK93 which is essentially the same watch at 40.5mm. But let’s be honest – you could really pick anything from the Cocktail Time collection, and if there’s nothing available at the moment that suits your fancy, Seiko releases numerous new variants each year. Price: US$650

SpaceOne Jumping Hour Blue Steel

Once you venture over the US$1,000 mark, it becomes harder to call a watch affordable, but you’ll see that these next three picks fully justify their price tags and inclusion on this list. Starting with the SpaceOne Jumping Hour, I don’t even need to tell you about its design – I mean, just look at it! This baby De Bethune is also not a slouch mechanically, with a Théo Auffret-developed jump hour module on top of a Soprod base. As a refresher, the young French watchmaker has completed two model production runs, and both of these have been nominated for a GPHG award, while his collaborative work on SpaceOne with Guillaume Laidet also earned a nomination. That’s some resume. Price: €1,700 (~US$1,860)

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière

From an avant-garde spaceship to what seems to be on the surface a pretty standard diver. Except the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière is anything but, managing to pack incredible specs and build quality into a stealthy package. The grade 2 titanium case is lightweight and well-finished, and at 41mm x 47.9mm a decently versatile size for a diver. It’s powered by a chronometer-grade Sellita SW300, which helps the case slim down to under 11mm despite the 300-metre water resistance. And then there’s the design, which is just so handsome – helped by ceramic Super-LumiNova Globolight blocks that glow incessantly after dark. Tudor Pelagos 39 who? Price: US$2,390 (with titanium bracelet), available from the Time+Tide Shop UK

Furlan Marri Disco Volante

We’ve left the affordable realm just a little bit with this last pick, but the bang for buck of the Furlan Marri Disco Volante is undisputed while the price still isn’t insane. The design itself is already so well-considered, from the intricate sector dial to the unique lumed ring and polished case steps, but it’s really the movement and its finishing that get you your money’s worth. The Peseux 7001 features in numerous watches, but Furlan Marri customise its bridges and hand-polish its chamfers, which adds an edge that few brands (if any) can claim at this price point. More to the point, try finding a vintage Disco Volante-style watch at a price close to this. Spoiler alert: you can’t. Price: US$2,780 (excl. VAT), available from the Time+Tide Shop