The Aera M-1 Field and Blackbird breathe new life into the Dirty Dozen
Buffy AcaciaThere are innumerable watches out there which have been inspired by the Dirty Dozen, a set of field watches manufactured at the tail end of WWII. The strong contrast and bold, legible design is truly timeless, and its association with military history gives it wide appeal to watch fans who are also usually history buffs. The only drawback is that they pretty much all look the same. Despite being a young brand, only founded in 2022, Aera is the first watchmaker I’ve seen to have taken the Dirty Dozen recipe and turned it into something entirely new. The Aera M-1 Field and Blackbird have a distinct personality and execution which is totally unique.
Let’s not pretend that watch fans are hard to please. Take the Dirty Dozen design, tweak the dial colour, throw in a Seiko NH35 and you’ll have yourself a successful Kickstarter campaign with next to no effort. The fact that Aera has gone to such lengths in designing the M-1 Field and Blackbird is both impressive and reassuring that new brands can still be creative. While there’s a lot to say about the dial, let’s start with the case. The Aera M-1 is meticulously sculpted, with a consistent curvature that runs from the domed sapphire crystal, across the steel bezel, and then down the highly sloping lugs into the strap. Overall, it’s a fluid shape that will drape across the wrist beautifully.
In addition to its futuristic smoothness, the case of the M-1 is made of 904L steel, which has higher corrosion resistance than the 316L alloy that’s typically used in watchmaking. Its higher percentage of molybdenum and copper can reduce its hardness and make it slightly more susceptible to scratches, but it also tends to have a better lustre when polished. That said, all surfaces of the M-1 Field are brushed, and the Blackbird is coated with black PVD. Its water resistance of 100m is appropriate for swimming and general wet adventuring. The dimensions hit upon the typical goldilocks zone for most modern sports watches, with a 39mm diameter, 13.14mm total thickness, and a compact lug-to-lug length of 47.6mm.
Looking at the dial of the Aera M-1, you can clearly see the influence from the Dirty Dozen watches. There’s a train track register for the minutes, clear Arabic numerals, a small seconds sub-dial, fencepost hands, and of course the white on black colour scheme. However, everything has been thoroughly modernised. Rather than small dots of radium lume, the numerals themselves are made from Globolight, which is a fusion of ceramic and Super-LumiNova material. It makes for a punchy display after dark, and includes the Aera logo. Each element is rendered cleanly in a near sterile fashion, hitting on a more minimalist look without actually losing anything. Beyond the black case, the Blackbird version also has touches of blue on the tip of the small seconds hand, the 12 o’clock marker, and the crown.
Although the Aera M-1 has prioritised a contemporary aesthetic, it indulges in old-school worship thanks to a hand-wound mechanical movement. The Sellita SW216-1 is one of a few Sellita movements that doesn’t have an exact ETA equivalent, but it is still based on the ETA 2824-2 architecture, as evidenced by the 42-hour power reserve and smooth 4Hz beat rate. Another touch which is very rarely seen is the use of an integrated leather strap which smartens up the watch significantly. The M-1 Field comes with black and tan straps while the Blackbird has black and grey suede, but all of the options having fitted ends gives them a luxurious flair. If you do want to use an aftermarket strap, the 20mm lug width makes that easy.
The Aera M-1 Field and Blackbird price and availability
The Aera M-1 Field and Blackbird are now available. Price: US$1,750 (Field) / US$1,900 (Blackbird)
| Brand | Aera |
| Model | M-1 Field M-1 Blackbird |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 13.14mm (H) x 47.6mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Forged carbon fibre with Super-LumiNova BGW9 |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel 15-link bracelet with folding clasp |
| Movement | Sellita SW200-1, Heinrich-modified, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional timing bezel |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$971 |