A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva SpringtimeBorna Bošnjak
Thinness is the word of the day, everyday, for Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo. Currently holding world records in several different categories, the Roman Jeweller imbues its design language throughout the watches it produces, while also making them genuinely wearable pieces. The accolade of thinnest may have been niche in the not too distant past, but is now a sure-fire way of bringing attention to one’s products, and Bulgari has accomplished exactly that (especially with the brand-new Octo Finissimo Ultra). While the Octo Finissimo Automatic battles in the densely populated integrated bracelet sports watch category, the three models that we look at today soar above with technological innovation. The Geneva Springtime 2022 collection for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo brings a flash of colour to previously monochromatic models, and vice versa.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater
With a sand-blasted titanium case in 40mm and thickness, or rather, thinness of 6.61mm, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater still holds the record for the world’s thinnest chiming watch. The refresh retains the complex case architecture, with the hands matching the dark grey hue. The dial features apertures in the place of where the traditional markers and the small seconds sub-dial would sit to aid sound transmission which is already fantastic due to the properties of titanium. The powdery blue colour is used for both the dial and the FKM rubber strap with titanium buckle.
Flipping the watch over, my gaze is immediately drawn to the ultra-thin calibre BVL 362. The curving gongs encircle the manually-wound movement that is extensively finished with Geneva striping and polished chamfers. At only 3.12mm thick, it delivers 42 hours of power reserve, beating at 3 Hz.
|Model||Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater|
|Case Dimensions||40mm x 6.85mm|
|Case Material||Sand-blasted titanium|
|Water Resistance||3 ATM|
|Dial||Matte blue with openworked indices and small seconds subdial|
|Strap||Blue FKM rubber strap with titanium buckle|
|Movement||Manufacture calibre BVL 362 – minute repeater with small seconds, 42-hour power reserve, 3 Hz|
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
It would not be a Bulgari Octo Finissimo without some sort of thinness record associated with it, and the Chronograph GMT Automatic is no different. The 43mm stainless steel case is 8.75mm thick, making it the thinnest mechanical chronograph ever made. Bulgari has made the most of the faceted case, using a combination of vertical and horizontal brushing, highlighted by mirror-polished surfaces. The top side of the octagonal bezel and the sloping flanks of the case and lugs match the reflective nature of the integrated bracelet mid-links. The dial is integrated into the design featuring a strong vertical brush, with grey printing and applied silver brushed markers. The grey text is a nice touch, as black might have caused too much of a contrast with this very monochromatic look.
Like the rest of the watch, the in-house Calibre BVL 318 is finished to a high degree, though it forgoes too much flashiness, opting for a modern look throughout. At only 3.3mm thick, it features both an integrated chronograph and a GMT function, making use of a platinum-weighted peripheral rotor to reduce thickness. A 55-hour power reserve and 4 Hz frequency complete the spec overview.
|Model||Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic|
|Case Dimensions||43mm x 8.75mm|
|Case Material||Satin-polished steel|
|Water Resistance||10 ATM|
|Strap||Integrated stain-polished steel with 3-blade folding clasp|
|Movement||Manufacture calibre BVL 318 – chronograph, GMT with 55-hour power reserve, 4 Hz|
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic
The first release of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic marked the sixth consecutive thinness record for Bulgari. For the springtime collection, it’s rendered in a 43mm platinum case with a white gold and ceramic crown, matched with a blue alligator strap with platinum buckle. The blue highlights are carried through to the openworked dial, colouring the fine printing of the minute scale, Bulgari branding and sub-dial text. The skeletonised dauphine hands are also blue, minimally obstructing the tourbillon monopusher chrono movement from view.
The in-house Calibre BVL 388 measures in at only 3.5mm in height, and manages a 52-hour power reserve at 3 Hz. A thin white gold peripheral rotor is tasked with winding, and tells the story of the overall finish of the movement. As we can see in many a Bulgari calibre, modern, almost industrial finishing is preferred, to match the contemporary design of the watch itself.
|Model||Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic|
|Case Dimensions||43mm x 7.4mm|
|Case Material||Platinum case, white gold crown and chrono pushers|
|Water Resistance||3 ATM|
|Dial||Openworked, grey chrono counters and blue hands|
|Strap||Blue alligator leather strap with platinum buckle|
|Movement||Manufacture Calibre BVL 388 – tourbillon, monopusher chronograph, automatic with 52-hour power reserve and 3 Hz|