VINTAGE WITH DEREK DIER: Episode 2 – Watch you looking at?

Derek Dier

Ed’s Note: Our resident vintage watch expert, Mr Derek Dier, goes behind the scenes of Hollywood to explore the immense amount of effort that goes into selecting a watch that may only be on-screen for a few seconds – and why that fleeting glimpse can make or break a scene.

To be swept away into a new era – forgetting all your troubles as your eyes gorge on the make-believe. You feel you are there… smelling the scene and living the moment. This is a magic of cinema at its best. Magic brought to you by the best property masters in show biz.

Today I’m lucky to introduce you to one of the premiere prop masters in the world; Ellen Freund. Since 1981 Ellen has worked in the art-property master departments of many noted movies.  Freund possesses the keen eye Hollywood demands. Knowledge of history, design, colour, all must be exacting. Freund has worked directly with actors Cruise, Pacino, Pitt – most everyone.

From Pet Semetary to Mad Men. She has idealized these movie sets, burnishing them with complete correctness – an exingent eye, she researches, oversees the purchasing of all props, directs their placement, attends all rehearsals – blandishing the stars and beguiling our eyes.

I asked Ellen to speak about watches and the role they play in adorning Hollywood icons. When asked as to the direction Hollywood was heading in general, in the purchasing of watches; whether towards fake, authentic or simply going cheap as possible?

Ellen says: “Since the advent of HD and the ability to freeze frame, authenticity in period films has become most important.” I was told it all comes down to budget, and who that week working on the film had the most clout – often overriding the prop master. “You have to choose your battles.” She says. Ellen admits there have been mistakes by using watches from the wrong period on Mad Men. “Even Matt Weiner, (being the watch collector and genius he is) has made mistakes, and that is why they reach out to experts to lend advice.  Actors such as Tom Cruise or Warren Beatty always insist watches be authentic.

Fake doubles (literally purchased on L.A. street corners) are used because often actors leave the originals lying around miles away at the last scene, or lost in the trailer, and having a look-a-like double or authentic duplicate (if budget allows) is extremely important to keep a film on schedule.” “There is a saying in the prop master world… ‘One is none’.  Between scenes, watches, expensive socks and more, seem to mysteriously disappear – actors love keeping stuff. Duplication is necessary.”

“There is a saying in the prop master world… ‘One is none’.  Between scenes, watches, expensive socks and more, seem to mysteriously disappear – actors love keeping stuff. Duplication is necessary.”

My question to Ellen in regards to watch manufacturers sponsoring a film or TV show made simple sense. ” You will not see a manufacturer sponsoring a watch on a TV program because it may conflict with the paid advertisers they rely upon”. “In movies, absolutely – they may demand a four second wrist shot for simply the use of their timepiece, or the company may pay a fee to have their product appear on film.

I questioned Ellen as to the importance of watches on film… Where do they rank as a prop?

“I think they are quite important… More so on men than women. Men’s watches are more noticeable and play an important role on film-especially if the actor’s sleeve is revealing the watch.” “Period films require expertise and research – we have to rely on experts for many things”.

I asked if actors sometimes insist on choosing their timepiece and Ellen replied “Yes, there are occasions where an actor is tied in with a watch company and insist on using that particular brand in the film.”  “I remember one particular time where I believed the watch used was quite inappropriate, but the actor insisted on wearing it.” She added,  “While thinking of an inappropriate watch for a character; in House Of Cards, Kevin Spacey’s watch (an IWC Portuguese) is much too large for his wrist.”

Over the past few years (as a watch dealer) providing for period films, I’ve found it difficult to meet the monetary demands propmasters propose.  Often. I’m asked to sell timepieces for $100 and even less, making it impossible for me to deliver in many instances. This is why we discover blunders adorning wrists on film, as the propmasters endeavor to enter the murky realm of watch buying on their own. Matt Weiner’s embellishments on Mad Men demonstrated how going the extra mile -hiring outside experts and paying the uttermost attention to every prop, has elevated our expectations. Here’s hoping the trend of excellence continues…. although, these foibles in the watch/film world sure provide fodder for which we watch-addicts prey upon. But are we all being too picky? Maybe we should resist the compulsive urge to freeze frame and reference check and enjoy movies for what they are – entertainment.