LIST: The 5 watches we’re arguing most about at Baselworld 2017

Felix Scholz

Baselworld is a pressure cooker. It’s an intense week full of back-to-back appointments, cramped accommodation and more watches than – if we’re being really honest – is healthy to try and process at once. So it’s only to be expected that Andrew and I have our own instincts about what are the hotties and notties. In fact, sometimes it can get downright frosty in Chez Time+Tide. It’s Saturday evening here, and instead of chilling out we’re getting fired up over a few Feldschlössen and five watches we just can’t see eye to eye on.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

ANDREW: I’m rapt they’ve onboarded the new Sea-Dweller with the 3235 movement, but I’m not as into the larger 43mm size. One of the best things about Rolex is the sheer ergonomic perfection of the OP case in its purest expression, which is 40mm with that svelte case profile you can spot a mile away. And that’s the thing, a Rolex doesn’t need to be big to be noticed.

FELIX: I think you’re missing the point. People want big Rolexes – the Sea-Dweller is one of the models that looks good at a bigger size. The cyclops is classic Rolex, and who doesn’t like red text? Sure, the it might have put the purists off side, but you know what – Rolex isn’t in the business of pleasing purists.

Omega Railmaster

FELIX: Confession time, I haven’t even seen this watch in the metal yet, but I’ve spent a fair amount of time ogling it on the internet. And based on this I’m pretty confident in calling early as one of my favourite watches of the fair. Antimagnetic 40mm case, Master Chronometer movement and a banging price of a USD price of around $5k. What’s not to like?

ANDREW: There is a lot to like – especially the price  – but as a Ranchero owner, I find that the individual elements like the railroad seconds track, thinner numerals, central cross-hair and handset (give me the broad arrow any day) just don’t hold together as well. Pretty boring points from the ‘vintage looks better’ school, but I can’t get past it!

TAG Heuer Autavia

FELIX: I like the watch, and I love the bracelet, but it’s a little odd to run a competition for people to vote for their favourite design only to add a bunch of stuff at the end. Like the date window, which snuck into the final version. Why?

ANDREW: Really? The date is your beef? A classic sports chrono that’s reasonably sized, has a sweet backstory, a banger of an in-house movement on two solid strap options and you’re picking on the date window. I think you need to take a step back and look at the bigger picture.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono

FELIX: So Tudor announces a new tagline ‘born to dare’ and then they release the Black Bay Chrono. Sure it’s great value and a cool movement, but it’s yet another composite heritage piece that mixes and matches diving and automotive design codes. What’s daring about that?

ANDREW: If making derivative watches was a crime in this industry, Basel would be conducted in jail. Yes, our new bae, the #bbchrono looks an awful lot like the Speedmaster 9300 in particular, and yes, the #baytona call is funny because it’s true. But all these detractors are overlooking the hard fact that watches with (almost) the same movement, a tweaked B-01, are about double the price. So you’re getting a high quality chronograph at a very competitive price. Just remember, it’s all about that leather strap…

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m

FELIX: I saw press release shots of this and fell a little bit in love. This watch combines Seiko’s legit dive watch heritage with their awesome Grand Seiko finishing and watchmaking in one monster package. Sure, not everyone can handle the size, but to me that just separates the wheat from the chaff.

ANDREW: I also thought this one would hit me in the feels, it’s such a hot looking watch. But in the metal it left me a tiny bit cold. It’s a classic Seiko and has some fantastic elements, such as tapisserie dial, gilt edged indices and a blessed lack of dual branding on the dial. But for me this deep sea beast lacks the finesse I expect from Grand Seiko.