First Look: 2014 Rolex Cellini Collection
Felix Scholz
For Rolex, product development is an incremental game. One year Rolex will release a new model, say in white gold, the next year they might release that self same model in Everose, or with an alternate dial. The year after that you might see a steel version. Ditto with new technologies, it will take a few years for a new clasp (or Syloxi hairspring) to be implemented across the various collections.
The mantra for Rolex (at least where new product is concerned) is ‘evolution, not revolution’. Which is why the new Cellini collection was such a welcome surprise.
This year’s Baselworld saw Rolex release, in one fell swoop, an entire revamped Cellini collection. Three new models, each offered in white and Everose gold with a choice of either a white or black lacquer dial. Those three models are the Cellini Time, the Cellini Date and the Cellini Dual Time. That’s a grand total of 12 different watches, which for Rolex at least, represents a veritable deluge of new models.
Today however we’re mainly focusing our attention on the Dual Time (second timezone and day/night indicator) and Date (with date subdial at three) models, because frankly, they’re a little more interesting than the time only model.
But what is the Cellini? Unless you’re intimately familiar with the Rolex catalogue you can be forgiven for not having heard much about the Rolex Cellini before. The Cellini collection has in fact been a part of the Rolex family for a long time, but it was kind of like a lonely cousin, lacking the macho popularity of the rugged Submariner, the desirability of the Daytona or the universality of the Datejust.
Cellini has been a broad ranging collection with little unifying feeling over the years, except that is the dressier of the Rolex collections, and one with an affinity for the arts. And with the notable exception of the handsome rectangular Prince model, it’s been a bit of a mishmash of a collection, with no clear identity. Regardless of the merits of individual models, the Cellini of old is certainly not a flagship collection for Rolex.
Clearly it was well past time for Rolex to examine the Cellini, prune some deadweight from the collection and focus on its blossoming future. The first thing you notice is that it’s a brand new case for Rolex. Sure, it’s unmistakably a Rolex and there’s enough familiar Oyster DNA in there for the relationship to be clear. But the new Cellini is an entirely different, dressier beast. And when talking about the Cellini, dressy is the key word. It fills a really important gap in the Rolex lineup. Rolex excel at sports casual, and while a gold Datejust can certainly pull tuxedo duty, it’s a watch that, at its core is designed for more versatile uses.
The Cellini however, with it’s mix of highly polished gold, guilloche dial and the stunning double combo of domed and fluted bezels make this a watch designed to twinkle and sparkle under a crisp white cuff. The watch is deeply attractive under lights, the range of finishes means the watch demonstrates a complexity that belies the design which, on paper at least appears simple.
I’ve been talking about this watch largely in terms of its characteristics as a dress watch, but that’s only half the picture. This isn’t some ultrathin gold number, that would look out of place with anything less than black tie, it’s a versatile timepiece suitable for daily wear (granted it’d be better paired with a suit over shorts, but even so). Sure, it’s elegant, and at 38mm wide no dinner plate on the wrist, but it’s a watch of classic style and dimensions, executed in a thoroughly modern manner – super wearable. It’s the 2014 version of the lovely gold Rolexes of the ’40s and ’50s, a watch full of texture (that guilloche, that bezel) and painstaking case details (that slightly domed caseback, the elegantly fluted crown) that make the seemingly simple gold Cellini collection a watch that really, like all Rolexes is made to be worn, and worn regularly. And while it’s not entry level in terms of price (the range is priced between AU $17,000 and $21,650) it’s appropriate for a solid gold watch of this calibre and quality.
I’d like to single out for special commendation the Cellini Dual Time, my personal favourite from the collection and indeed one of my favourite releases from Rolex this year. A second time zone is a particularly useful complication, and its integration on this model is particularly elegant. The positioning of the second time zone subdial at six doesn’t break the symmetry of the watch. I also like how the second timezone is essentially a miniaturized version of dial. The little day/night indicator adds an extra touch, and is very reminiscent of the classic Rolex moonphases. On that note, Mr Dufour, if you’re reading this, I’d give major organs to see a full-on moonphase – a tribute to the 8171 would make a great addition to the Cellini line-up in years to come.
The 2014 Cellini collection is an excellent opening lineup; classic, understated yet complex design that will suit and please a great many people, from those looking for their second or third Rolex, to lovers of the brand’s legacy who are looking for something a little more formal. You can’t help but be impressed by the way Rolex make watches – looking at them or, even better, holding and wearing a Rolex watch is to understand that nothing is left to chance. Every element has been considered and executed impeccably. And the Cellini is a case in point.
Technical Data.
TIME
References: 50509, 50505
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
DATE
References: 50519, 50515
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands , Date display on a sub-dial with hand at 3 o’clock
DUAL TIME
References: 50529, 50525
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands, Second time zone at 6 o’clock with day/night indicator
All References:
CASE
39 mm, 18 ct white gold or Everose gold, polished finish Double bezel, domed and fluted , Domed case back screw down, Flared screw-down winding crown with Rolex emblem , Domed sapphire crystal , Waterproof to a depth of 50 metres
MOVEMENT
Self-winding mechanical movement, Manufacture Rolex COSC-certified chronometer Blue Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz), 31 rubies , Approximately 48-hour power reserve